Replacing motor mounts
Replacing motor mounts Hey everyone, I know motor mounts have been beaten to death here, but I have time now and was thinking about getting some solid ones. A little extra vibration won't bother me. I plan on leaving my exhaust in place. I should have done it the same time as the headers, but thought I wouldn't have the time due to the horror stories of it taking over 20 hrs. Though I will be removing some accessories like the a/c and alternator. My question is this, if I do one side at a time and remove the pedestal and the motor mount together in one piece, wouldn't that avoid having to jack up the motor? I won't be able to jack it up with the exhaust in place as I only have maybe 1/8th inch clearance between the exhaust and underbody on the driver's side. Wouldn't doing it this way also prevent the motor from shifting? Allowing everything to line up the way it was when I install the new mounts? I just won't get Spohn mounts since some mentioned they tend to raise the engine roughly an inch, which I definitely don't have room for.
I'm not going to allow this to turn into a debate about solids vs poly vs rubber mounts. The purpose here is to clarify if the job can be done without jacking the motor up by removing the pedestal and the mounts together, one side at a time. Of those who've actually done it, has nobody been able to do the install the way I described? Looking at it, it appears it should work, I just don't want to start taking it apart only to find that it can't be done.
Easier to jack the engine up a tad and pull the pedestal IMO. Im not sure how much fun it would be with longtubes in place. I did mine at the same time I did my headers and ORY.
I tried doing it that way while I was replacing stock exhaust with long tubes. Took exhaust off giving me more room, but never really enough. It was very difficult to remove the frame pedestal bolts with limited space for maneuvering tool around. I replaced them one at time doing the drivers' side first. That worked out pretty well. The second one on the passenger side was a real problem. Could not get the pedestal bolts to line up when the through bolt was in place with loosed engine side mount bolts. There was no room to try and pound the through bolt in either. I ended up having to use the car jack to push the engine around to finally get that though bolt installed and then torque down all the rest. Only then did I install the headers.
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I tried doing it that way while I was replacing stock exhaust with long tubes. Took exhaust off giving me more room, but never really enough. It was very difficult to remove the frame pedestal bolts with limited space for maneuvering tool around. I replaced them one at time doing the drivers' side first. That worked out pretty well. The second one on the passenger side was a real problem. Could not get the pedestal bolts to line up when the through bolt was in place with loosed engine side mount bolts. There was no room to try and pound the through bolt in either. I ended up having to use the car jack to push the engine around to finally get that though bolt installed and then torque down all the rest. Only then did I install the headers.
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Having the legs of the engine hoist all up in my way wasn't happening for me so I used a piece of 3"x3" square pipe to lay across the top of the shock towers and then put ratchet straps from the square pipe to the headers or exhaust manifolds to hold the engine up. Used a small floor jack under the k-member and once I got the through bolts out which mine had to be hacksawed into sections and knocked out with an air hammer but after that you can loosen the bolts on the k-member and lower it down enough to get at the engine mounts. I must also mention that I did them one mount at a time and it was aggravating even with a tubular k-member.
Last edited by 01CamaroSSTx; Jun 30, 2021 at 08:12 PM.
There is just too little room to swing a hammer. I moved AC compressor and starter. As an aside, I unknowingly sheared the wires for the knock sensors when I jacked the engine up, so be careful. I have not been able to get that problem resolved even after relocating the sensors and re-wiring (don't want to remove intake manifold).
There is just too little room to swing a hammer. I moved AC compressor and starter. As an aside, I unknowingly sheared the wires for the knock sensors when I jacked the engine up, so be careful. I have not been able to get that problem resolved even after relocating the sensors and re-wiring (don't want to remove intake manifold).