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Need help in choosing a 4 inch MAF. I have an LS1, 383, 99 Fbody, Installing a FAST 102mm LSXR intake, I've seen the Lingenfelter and TSP MAFs but want to know what everyone is using.
Read your links, most is way beyond me but since it was downloaded in my brain maybe it will all come together sometime in the future.
I went to Saxon and reading what they had in their website they are suggesting 6:1 on the honeycomb, I have a 500 HP 383 from Thompson Motorsports, is the 6:1 sufficient?
And what glue did you use to secure the honeycomb inside the tube? I have some experience with aircraft honeycomb structures so this might help too.
Thanks for the help.
Fast Toyz 104mm lid
TSP 100mm MAF $319.99 plus tax and shipping...Ouch!
ACDelco MAF sensor 15865791 $57.99
Racetronix MAF-001 $25.95
HPS 4" x 6" silicon coupler tube $70
ddnspider's reccomendation will save money..
I'm contemplating doing this all over again on my 99 build and not to derail this but if you're going SD tune then you really don't need the MAF or the sensor but the IAT sensor will still be needed correct?
Read your links, most is way beyond me but since it was downloaded in my brain maybe it will all come together sometime in the future.
I went to Saxon and reading what they had in their website they are suggesting 6:1 on the honeycomb, I have a 500 HP 383 from Thompson Motorsports, is the 6:1 sufficient?
And what glue did you use to secure the honeycomb inside the tube? I have some experience with aircraft honeycomb structures so this might help too.
Thanks for the help.
Don't confuse scaling a tune with just swapping to an LS7 MAF. That thread has both but thats for boosted atuff that is higher hp. Youll be fine with just the LS7 MAF swap. 6:1 screen is fine. Use JB Weld to secure it in the tube. Works just fine. You'll have to get an adapter harness to connect to thr MAF or splice into it but it's not a big deal and it has an integrated IAT sensor too. After that you'll only need to retune the MAF table and you're good to go. All those other tables I changed in the tune thread aren't required.
Don't confuse scaling a tune with just swapping to an LS7 MAF. That thread has both but thats for boosted atuff that is higher hp. Youll be fine with just the LS7 MAF swap. 6:1 screen is fine. Use JB Weld to secure it in the tube. Works just fine. You'll have to get an adapter harness to connect to thr MAF or splice into it but it's not a big deal and it has an integrated IAT sensor too. After that you'll only need to retune the MAF table and you're good to go. All those other tables I changed in the tune thread aren't required.
The IAT table also needs to be corrected so that the IAT reads accurately.
I have a 100mm Spectre/LS7 MAF on both my 97 Express and my 99 Tahoe. The fueling is much more accurate than it was with the older MAFs. I put a Saxon 6:1 straightener on my Express with a 383 and still need to pick one up for the 8.1L Tahoe. The straightener further cleans the MAF signal and it is very noticeable.
The IAT table also needs to be corrected so that the IAT reads accurately.
I have a 100mm Spectre/LS7 MAF on both my 97 Express and my 99 Tahoe. The fueling is much more accurate than it was with the older MAFs. I put a Saxon 6:1 straightener on my Express with a 383 and still need to pick one up for the 8.1L Tahoe. The straightener further cleans the MAF signal and it is very noticeable.
I hear people say that but I don't think I've ever done it on mine and it's always read fine. Weird.
I hear people say that but I don't think I've ever done it on mine and it's always read fine. Weird.
Mine was reading about 10-15*F cooler than it actually was. I found where someone else had posted the correct IAT Table. Programmed it in to the PCM. The CTS, Trans Temp and IAT are all within 1-2*F after an overnight soak at ambient temp now from 20*F to 110F.
Mine was reading about 10-15*F cooler than it actually was. I found where someone else had posted the correct IAT Table. Programmed it in to the PCM. The CTS, Trans Temp and IAT are all within 1-2*F after an overnight soak at ambient temp now from 20*F to 110F.
see if you can find that table and post it in my sticky.
[QUOTE=rayrat;20481520]01 camaroSSTx
can I get you to send me a better photo of this part on your engine? I'd like to see your fuel rail setup from the LH fender close up.
01 camaroSSTx
can I get you to send me a better photo of this part on your engine? I'd like to see your fuel rail setup from the LH fender close up.
How is your fuel system set up? Is it not returnless? I plan on doing heads, cam, and intake and the goal is 500hp so I need the fuel to support that. Would just changing the fuel pump and injectors support that? Leave the lines/evap alone? Sorry this isn't exactly related to this thread I just stumbled upon this after doing some research for fuel systems. What's your HP/TQ at right now?
How is your fuel system set up? Is it not returnless? I plan on doing heads, cam, and intake and the goal is 500hp so I need the fuel to support that. Would just changing the fuel pump and injectors support that? Leave the lines/evap alone? Sorry this isn't exactly related to this thread I just stumbled upon this after doing some research for fuel systems. What's your HP/TQ at right now?
Dont touch anything in the fuel system but pump, injectors, and a hot wire kit for 500whp.
How is your fuel system set up? Is it not returnless? I plan on doing heads, cam, and intake and the goal is 500hp so I need the fuel to support that. Would just changing the fuel pump and injectors support that? Leave the lines/evap alone? Sorry this isn't exactly related to this thread I just stumbled upon this after doing some research for fuel systems. What's your HP/TQ at right now?
Car is making 540rwhp and 500rwtq and it is a return system that uses the C5 Corvette FPR. The WS6Store sells a kit for these cars and the fuel pump assembly is from Squash Performance that has Walbro 450's with only one hooked up to a Racerronix hotwire harness.
Dont touch anything in the fuel system but pump, injectors, and a hot wire kit for 500whp.
Thank you so much for the input man. I really appreciate it. This is my first real build and I was really really hoping I wouldn't have to mess with the fuel lines and such as turning it into a return style fuel system would be something I don't think I could handle myself. Not trying to blow myself up! LOL
Thank you as well for the response. I believe I have seen the listing on the WS6store for the C5 regulator. I know it is outside of the tank, so it has a hose attached to it that acts as a return style? Stops the fuel from flowing up to the rails if the fuel pressure is where it should be? If I have any more questions after this I will just start a thread. I'm so sorry for posting these questions on this thread. I've been browsing this website for 6 months (ever since I bought my camaro) and never made an account. So much good stuff here I just had to make an account!
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