HELP! Problems after LS6 intake install, car won't start.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
HELP! Problems after LS6 intake install, car won't start. Hey everyone. Don't know if I'm just an idiot or something (sure as hell hope not), but I installed my LS6 intake today (took a while) and made sure everything was reconnected/tightened correctly, left the EGR out as I had to, but had one problem: somehow I ended up one hose short. There's two sets of things on the passenger side that need to be connected, and I only had one length of hose, so I left one thing unconnected. Now when I started up the car, it started, idled at like 2500 rpm, then just died. If I get the other hose, will that help? Please tell me it will.
are you talking about the hoses that connect to the vavle covers? if so thats part of the PCV system. also you did installed the ls6 coolant tubes and remove the 2 green clips from the knock sensor wires right? sounds like you have a vaccum leak.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
Originally Posted by jrp
are you talking about the hoses that connect to the vavle covers? if so thats part of the PCV system. also you did installed the ls6 coolant tubes and remove the 2 green clips from the knock sensor wires right? sounds like you have a vaccum leak.
lol. You have a vacuum leak from hell if you left those tubes in there. The bottom of an LS6 intake is flat, and the 98-00 coolant tubes WILL NOT FIT. You need 2 plugs, and 1 front crossover pipe. You can be a hick about it if you want and make these plugs and pipes out of your old ones, or buy new ones. So go pull everything back off, and you will see this metal line under the intake. Its shaped like a big "I" Pull it off, there are 4 bolts holding it on. Cut the back part off where the 2 oval fittings are, and run to your friendly neighborhood welder and have him weld the coolant passage shut, effectively making them plugs. Reinstall them, and they should completely stop rear coolant flow. The front part will be more fun. Go buy some 5/16" hose and some clamps. If you haven't dont the throttle body bypass, now is the time to do it BTW. Anyways, the two oval things you have left are connected by a pipe, that has a fitting that goes to the front and one that goes to the back. Cut them so there is at least 1" of pipe so you can fit a hose over it. Go get a flare tool, and flare the ends so the hose will grab. Then you need to cut the "t" part off, that goes to the throttlebody. The line running to the rear is not needed. Anyways, flare the T fitting, and connect everything together with the 5/16" hose. It should go like this:
Oval thing - hose - T-fitting - hose - Oval thing
Sorry, cant think of a better name than oval thing. Put everything back together, check your intake to make sure you didn't crack it by leaving that pipe under there, and let us know how this works for you.
Oval thing - hose - T-fitting - hose - Oval thing
Sorry, cant think of a better name than oval thing. Put everything back together, check your intake to make sure you didn't crack it by leaving that pipe under there, and let us know how this works for you. Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
Well ****, I'm humbled. I didn't even think about the difference in the bottoms and it seemed to sit on there alright...damn I need to think about these things before I get started. I'm just loathing the idea of reaching back in there to unbolt everything...that sucked. Thanks for the answers and for not thinking I'm a total bonehead (or at least not vocalizing it). I'm at work right now so I'll check it out when I get home.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
BTW, Mike, how do you like the Hotcam? I ask because after I get my underdrive pulley and Shaner S3 throttle body, I'm cammin' my Z and trying to figure out which cam to get. I'm leaning towards something smaller as I want more torque/off the line power instead of top end.
Trending Topics
Hey Bonehead...read this site before you jump back into that manifold re-install:
JMX Manifold Install
and this one before you start ripping the cam out:
JMX Cam Install
{Just kidding about the bonehead comment.
}
JMX Manifold Install
and this one before you start ripping the cam out:
JMX Cam Install
{Just kidding about the bonehead comment.
} LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Hey, sorry I didnt reply sooner. I hope it turned out alright for you. As far as liking the hotcam, I think I'm one of the few people who love it. I don't race my car, it has never seen the track, nor will it ever probably. One of the reasons I chose the hotcam is the ability to use LS6 springs. Do some research on it, alot of aftermarket springs require you to warm the car up to operating temperatures before driving it, even in the summer. Thats not something I wanted to deal with. I love how it sounds, and I think it was a good improvement seat of the pants wise for power. My biggest complaint was having to get it tuned, and paying for that tuning. When I did the swap I didnt think i would need tuning, but after half a day of driving it I about went nuts. Tuning made it "tolerable" again. Overall, I'd say I'm happy with it, but if I was to do it again I think I would go bigger and deal with warming it up. Make sure you have all your bolt ons done first, headers and a good free flowing exhaust are very important. Once you're past all that stuff, then go for the cam swap. Or you could do it all at once and really be amazed the first time you drive it. I did EVERYTHING at once, and damn. Thats all I can say.
Note: I just noticed you have an automatic. You will DEFINITELY need tuning, and you will probably want to get 3.73's installed as well, and I'm saying that purely for driveability reasons. In the lower RPM's my car kinda bogged (like under 2 grand) with 3.42's but now with 4.10's its an animal all over. Love the gears!
Note: I just noticed you have an automatic. You will DEFINITELY need tuning, and you will probably want to get 3.73's installed as well, and I'm saying that purely for driveability reasons. In the lower RPM's my car kinda bogged (like under 2 grand) with 3.42's but now with 4.10's its an animal all over. Love the gears!
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
Actually, my buddy's coming over and we're fixing the coolant tube situation tomorrow. Yeah, by the end of next month, I'll have an SLP cold air kit, SLP lid, descreened stock MAF, Shaner S3 throttle body, the LS6 intake manifold (eventually....haha 
) and an ASP pulley, as well as Hooker longtube headers, 2.5" x-pipe to 2 Flowmaster single chambers, dumped, before the axle. Then, after that, I will get my cam (with necessary springs/tuning) and converter (TCI SF3000), and start my suspension mods (LCA's, Panhard Rod, SFC's, Swaybars, new shocks since mine are almost done), as well as get my new wheels (possibly C5's). I'm just considering a bunch of different cams, but I want TONS of low end torque, driveability and decent mpg, plus a lopey exhaust. We'll see. Thanks again.
) and an ASP pulley, as well as Hooker longtube headers, 2.5" x-pipe to 2 Flowmaster single chambers, dumped, before the axle. Then, after that, I will get my cam (with necessary springs/tuning) and converter (TCI SF3000), and start my suspension mods (LCA's, Panhard Rod, SFC's, Swaybars, new shocks since mine are almost done), as well as get my new wheels (possibly C5's). I'm just considering a bunch of different cams, but I want TONS of low end torque, driveability and decent mpg, plus a lopey exhaust. We'll see. Thanks again. Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Sounds good! Let us know how it turns out.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
From: Chicago - Southside
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Just make sure he's careful welding them, they're aluminum!
He's giving them to his dad to take to work with him, and he works at GM Electromotive, so I think it'll be alright. 