Bad ignition coils?
Last edited by Eric23_Z28; Dec 30, 2024 at 03:56 PM.
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Reason I ask is these cars had have a problem with the wire strands breaking in the forward part of the crimp at the ring terminal and only kinda grounding where the insulation is retained on the rear crimped part.
Memories gettin rusty I had two of these cars come in reasonably low mileage in the one to 2 year old under warranty stage and found the below you gotta cut harness open to find it. The INJ1 and INJ 2 power wires run to each bank. It leaves the PDC as one wire for each bank then about a foot from the valve cover in the main loom there is a splice pack on each side. 1 wire comes in from each fuse then splits to 4 for the injectors and 1 for the coils then heads to the valve cover connector and splits to 4 after the coil connector to power each coil. on the valve cover on the coil side there is a soldered splice pack wrapped with duct tape. I found a problem at that splice pack cut it out re soldered heat shrinked it and away we went.
The other was a splice pack for 2468 in the harness same situation as above I wanna say once you open up the harness it's about a foot from the valve cover connector in the main loom.
It's either a ground or power supply problem.
Plug in a noid light at each injector verify it will flash on all 4. Start it up and unplug the connector on the valve cover and verify you have 12V present or not present at the pink wire
A quick diagnostic is run a jumper from the battery and splice into the pink a few inches away from the connector and see if problem goes away they start firing and smooth out. The tricky part to a lot of these electrical problems is that due to resistance incurred from the wire or connection failure you can show 12V with a meter but it will not handle the operational load. All it takes is one strand working to show you 12 V or even resistance to ground on ground side.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; Jan 25, 2025 at 07:40 PM.











