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02 5.7 oil leak

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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 05:37 PM
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Default 02 5.7 oil leak

Just bought this low mile Ws6, it leaks oil. So far I've done all of the top end gaskets. Valve cover, valley cover, cam sensor and oil pressure sender. I also have replaced the oil cooler cover. So, it's basically either the rear main, rear main cover or the oil pan? It has oil dripping from rear oil pan bolts, NO oil dripping from starter🤷 So basically I just need to pull the engine ? Thanks
Passenger side rear corner of pan.
Passenger side rear corner of pan.
Driver's side rear corner of pan.
Driver's side rear corner of pan.

Last edited by 02Ws6Carter; Feb 18, 2025 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 06:26 PM
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Looks like you've narrowed it down.
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Looks like you've narrowed it down.
Sure wish I knew if it was just the rear main, it's going to be a chore to do the pan! I don't even know where to start, drop the k member so the pan will clear? Lift engine? Or just pull the whole dam motor and have full access to the engine🤷
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Old Feb 28, 2025 | 04:41 PM
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If it's an auto pop the inspection plug in bell housing see if you can locate a trail off the rear main.
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 09:54 AM
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Anytime you have an oil leak you basically trace it up to the highest point. If the back of the Heads or the sides of the Heads were clean I wouldn't even have touched anything up on the top side of the engine.

If the sides of the block are clean and it's wet in the back I would be leaning toward Rear Main Seal over it being the Oil Pan Gasket.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:20 PM
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Default New rear cover

So, I bought a new rear main cover as every suggest. The matching marks have me concerned. Do you think this will leak? It's the bottom edge of rear main cover.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 08:12 PM
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The procedure is a dab of RTV in each bottom corner where the Gaskets meet.

That looks a little more than what I've seen on them.

We said Rear Main SEAL so not sure where you got a new Rear Cover out of that..
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
The procedure is a dab of RTV in each bottom corner where the Gaskets meet.

That looks a little more than what I've seen on them.

We said Rear Main SEAL so not sure where you got a new Rear Cover out of that..
When I first asked I was as trying to evaluate the best mode of attack but quickly realized I may as well do the pan and rear main. Got it apart and the rear main itself is original and not leaking, the cover was leaking a little and the pan gasket was the culprit.
Reasoning behind the cover is that I've read they redesigned the rear main seal a few times, the last seal is ALOT thinner than the original, so it'll set further back in the original cover, which isn't a problem I'm sure. I also read that the new cover is an "improved" version🤷 I may just use the original, it didn't seem to have any porosity issues. Hell, the car only has 39k miles.
Also, I bought the new thinner rear main seal as I'm not reinstalling the original seal, although it wasn't leaking.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
The procedure is a dab of RTV in each bottom corner where the Gaskets meet.

That looks a little more than what I've seen on them.

We said Rear Main SEAL so not sure where you got a new Rear Cover out of that..
It is easier to buy the entire new cover with gasket, seal, locater for centerline of crank, and it comes with the larger headed fasteners. For like 80 bucks. So the hell with trying to just replace the seal.

OP I would do an aluminum oil galley barbell as well while you are in there.
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Old Mar 26, 2025 | 05:03 PM
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While installing the oil pan, the driver's side rear corner cracked. I torqued them all in stages and on the final 18ft lb pass I cracked the pan. I removed the pan and inspected the rear main cover and made sure it was flat, which all of it is, I used the rear main seal installer and made triple sure everything was aligned.
The only things I can think that may have caused this, torque wrench is wrong. Second possibility, I noticed their is the embossed rubber further inboard that the bolt, it seems that raises the pan, and when torquing it allows the pan to flex and snap🤷 You'd think the rubber would compress. Also, maybe I let the silicone dry too long while I was aligning the pan bell housing plane? Anyone have an opinion as if love to avoid this on the next pan!
Cracked on that area of pan.
Cracked on that area of pan.
With gasket removed, it is straight as can be from cover to block, though it sure doesnt look like it in this pic!
With gasket removed, it is straight as can be from cover to block, though it sure doesn't look like it in this pic!



Last edited by 02Ws6Carter; Mar 28, 2025 at 05:18 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 06:23 AM
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If it were mine I would either find a new pan or find someone to tig weld it. I had to have that done to a TH400 many years ago and it held up just fine.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 07:32 AM
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the factory alignment tool locates the rear cover to block.....jus sayin
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Old Mar 28, 2025 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
the factory alignment tool locates the rear cover to block.....jus sayin
Yea idk what the issue is. I've already ordered another pan and I dam sure don't wanna do this again! Maybe I tried to torque it too much at once?
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