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Engine Grounds

Old May 13, 2025 | 11:34 AM
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Default Engine Grounds

What ground goes to the back Passenger head? I have the air intake manifold off and don't see any loose connections. I do have 3 grounds on the back driver's side.
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Old May 14, 2025 | 03:11 PM
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What kind of vehicle?
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Old May 15, 2025 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 TJ
What kind of vehicle?
really hate hijacking someone else’s thread but I also have an electrical ghost I’m chasing that may be a ground. Mine is a 2001 Camaro z28. What are the 3 grounds that connect to the back of the driver side head? Meaning what are the other ends connected to? Subframe? I may run new instead of trying to reach back to the back of the head. Seems like a really crappy spot to get to.
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Old May 15, 2025 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by idahoz28
really hate hijacking someone else’s thread but I also have an electrical ghost I’m chasing that may be a ground. Mine is a 2001 Camaro z28. What are the 3 grounds that connect to the back of the driver side head? Meaning what are the other ends connected to? Subframe? I may run new instead of trying to reach back to the back of the head. Seems like a really crappy spot to get to.
Try using jumper cables as a temporary ground. Simplest way to start trouble shooting.
Attach one side to the battery then the other to the engine. If the problem persists, try the engine to the firewall. Rinse repeat until you find it.

If need be, You can use more than one jumper cable at a time.
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Old May 15, 2025 | 03:09 PM
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On my LS swaps with LS1/6 andLS3's the grounds on the back of heads are for the engine harness and ECM. Typically smaller gauge wires.
I always run a 00 gauge ground cable from the neg battery post directly to the engine block and then from the engine block to the frame/subframe.
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Old May 15, 2025 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 TJ
.................................................. .................................................. ...
I always run a 00 gauge ground cable from the neg battery post directly to the engine block and then from the engine block to the frame/subframe.
.
.
2 gauge copper seems plenty adequate for any gasoline engine.
It's the factory crimped ENDS of the wires that get " Resistive" with time and corrosion.
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