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Old Jun 17, 2025 | 06:35 PM
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Default ECT is climbing continuously

I have been battling an overheating problem on my LQ9 for some time and at this point I am not sure what is causing this. I have an ebay asiperformance 4 row radiator and fans, 4 corner vents that are routed to the port below the overflow on the radiator. I think I got the air out, but not 100% sure. I even installed a 160 degree thermostat, but all it did was slightly delay the overheating condition. The temp would get stuck at 172 degrees for some time, but then would begin creeping up, until it reaches 235 at which point I shut her down. There is no coolant burning in the exhaust, I tested for exhaust vapors in coolant with the fluid kit and oil doesn't have streaks of coolant. I did replace head gaskets when putting heads after a cam swap, and I tripple checked that those were facing the correct way. Another thing I am noticing is that the upper rad hose gets quite tight, tighter than on my escalade, so it builds pressure in there. Maybe its the rad cap? What can it be?
The engine is sitting in my 3rd gen camaro
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Old Jun 17, 2025 | 09:34 PM
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My swap did the same till I jacked up the front end about a foot off the ground and ran it without the radiator cap till the thermostat opened and I was able to fully top the radiator.
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 07:11 AM
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Have you confirmed your fans are turning on and blowing the right direction?
edit…I use a laser temp gun and shoot the radiator to find any cool spots, when chasing crap like this.

Last edited by Che70velle; Jun 18, 2025 at 07:23 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 07:19 AM
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Weren't there some issues with that model with the air dam having been removed/missing and overheating?
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Have you confirmed your fans are turning on and blowing the right direction?
edit…I use a laser temp gun and shoot the radiator to find any cool spots, when chasing crap like this.
Yeah, they are pulling air towards the engine. But my guess is that those fans are crap. Yesterday, I went on an evening drive, and when I am moving at a decent speed without traffic, the system starts cooling. I ordered 2 spal 1226 cfm and will install them today. Let's see if that helps.
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Buzzard
Weren't there some issues with that model with the air dam having been removed/missing and overheating?
Yeah, they can cause some problems if removed. I had to find one and install it. Not sure if its a complete dam though, there might be some plastic pieces missing.
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by arslsx
Yeah, they are pulling air towards the engine. But my guess is that those fans are crap. Yesterday, I went on an evening drive, and when I am moving at a decent speed without traffic, the system starts cooling. I ordered 2 spal 1226 cfm and will install them today. Let's see if that helps.
If it’s cooling while moving at rpm, and not cooling at idle while stopped, you have an airflow problem related to the fans. I bet the fans fix your problem. 2452 cfm of air should do the trick. Make sure your wire sizes are matched with the amp draw of those new fans. The new brushless stuff is very efficient. Keep us posted please.
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by arslsx
Yeah, they are pulling air towards the engine. But my guess is that those fans are crap. Yesterday, I went on an evening drive, and when I am moving at a decent speed without traffic, the system starts cooling. I ordered 2 spal 1226 cfm and will install them today. Let's see if that helps.
Another thing is to make sure your alternator is up to snuff. When I installed some Delta pag brushless fans I noticed my volts would drop significantly when they turned on. I'd be like mid 12v and I could only imagine what other problems that could potentially create with low voltage like that. I just installed a Mechman 170 amp racing alternator, added a couple more heavy ground straps and now I sit at 14.8v-14.9v with fans on it will drop to 14.4v-14.5v
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Old Jun 20, 2025 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
If it’s cooling while moving at rpm, and not cooling at idle while stopped, you have an airflow problem related to the fans. I bet the fans fix your problem. 2452 cfm of air should do the trick. Make sure your wire sizes are matched with the amp draw of those new fans. The new brushless stuff is very efficient. Keep us posted please.
SPAL fans solved the problem! Temps are now 181 degrees or below every time, and thats in a 100 degree weather. I just took a 430 mile trip in the car, and when on the highway, it would drop to 174. It's insane how these chinese companies are lying about their cfm values. Advertised cfm of those chinese fans was 1700 each! Yet, I can feel that spal fans (1226 cfm) blow double the air just by placing my arm between engine and rad. So if anyone decides to buy an ebay radiator, its a great idea to swap out those fans immediately to avoid all the headaches that I had. Bled the thing like 10 times😂
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Old Jun 20, 2025 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by arslsx
SPAL fans solved the problem! Temps are now 181 degrees or below every time, and thats in a 100 degree weather. I just took a 430 mile trip in the car, and when on the highway, it would drop to 174. It's insane how these chinese companies are lying about their cfm values. Advertised cfm of those chinese fans was 1700 each! Yet, I can feel that spal fans (1226 cfm) blow double the air just by placing my arm between engine and rad. So if anyone decides to buy an ebay radiator, its a great idea to swap out those fans immediately to avoid all the headaches that I had. Bled the thing like 10 times😂
Great to hear. Thanks for the feedback. I’m gonna move this to external engine…
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