Replacing A/C???
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From: Germantown, MD
Replacing A/C??? OK so I had a problem with my crank bolt. To make a long story short, I had to remove the radiator and A/C condenser to fix the problem. A friend was telling me that when he emptied the A/C canister on his GTO he had to replace it. He said once they're empty, air gets inside and mildew starts. Once that happens the system is toast and other sections of the heating and A/C systems can be effected.
Any truth to this? Do you all replace the canister or any other part of your A/C system or just refill it?
Mike
Any truth to this? Do you all replace the canister or any other part of your A/C system or just refill it?
Mike
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From: Germantown, MD
Since it's winter and I've already over spent to get the Hawk fixed, would there be any problems with spinning the A/C compressor when the thing is empty? I know I could leave the A/C belt off, but I need to have my acc belt and S/C belt off to get the A/C belt on. The S/C belt is a massive PITA to get on and off. So if spinning it dry is bad for the system, then I suppose it's best to just go ahead and get a new canister. Looking for more input here.
I'm still very confused how all this mildew will form inside there.
Mike
I'm still very confused how all this mildew will form inside there.
Mike
So the accumulator has to be replaced, but not the compressor or condensor, right? I, because I'm converting to an LS1, will need to remember this as I have been piecing together most of the A/C system from parts found on ebay.
D
D
The accumulator has a desicant inside of it that absorbs moisture. Left to open air it will saturate itself in about 15 min. You don't want moisture in the A/C system, hurts performance & breaks the oil in the system down & turns it acidic.The drier the better inside the system. Not sure what you mean by running it empty? You can rotate the hub a few by hand if you want? You should not run it dry though, it depends upon the refrigerant in the system to move the oil around & lubricate parts.
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From: Germantown, MD
Thanks Wrencher. That's the info I was looking for.
ROC, I spoke to my service deptartment and they told me only the accumulator needs to be replaced. I think Wrencher just confirmed it for us.
Mike
ROC, I spoke to my service deptartment and they told me only the accumulator needs to be replaced. I think Wrencher just confirmed it for us.
Mike
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One more thing when you replace the accumulator it is the last piece you should put in the system to seal it up.Then once installed, you put the system under a vacuum w/a vacuum pump for about an hour. This will remove any moisture in the system. Then you charge it.
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From: Germantown, MD
Vacuum pump? Can you explain this one a bit more? First off what kind of vacuum pump? Is this something a home garage Do-It-Yourselfer like me would or could have? Also where do you hook the pump up to the system?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
The pump hooks up to the low side service port i.e. the smaller one.
You can get an air compressor powered one for like $40. Just look in an automotive tool supply online warehouse, ton of 'em. The regular electric pumps are better but are not cheap. The air ones work great.
Maybe you know a shop that can install the accum. & pull a vacuum on it & charge it for ya cheap?
You can get an air compressor powered one for like $40. Just look in an automotive tool supply online warehouse, ton of 'em. The regular electric pumps are better but are not cheap. The air ones work great.
Maybe you know a shop that can install the accum. & pull a vacuum on it & charge it for ya cheap?
There is an automotive A/C shop right around the corner. So when I finally get around to getting the LS1 dropped in, connect everything but the accumulator and A/C belt, then drive it over to them for the rest? Or as bushman asked, is this something a DIY can do at home in the garage?
THanks,
David
THanks,
David
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From: Germantown, MD
Originally Posted by wrencher
The pump hooks up to the low side service port i.e. the smaller one.
You can get an air compressor powered one for like $40. Just look in an automotive tool supply online warehouse, ton of 'em. The regular electric pumps are better but are not cheap. The air ones work great.
Maybe you know a shop that can install the accum. & pull a vacuum on it & charge it for ya cheap?
You can get an air compressor powered one for like $40. Just look in an automotive tool supply online warehouse, ton of 'em. The regular electric pumps are better but are not cheap. The air ones work great.
Maybe you know a shop that can install the accum. & pull a vacuum on it & charge it for ya cheap?
Low port? I can think of two valves. The one on the accumuator itself and the one on the tube going into the condenser. Is the one going into the condensor the smaller one you're talking about?
The pump hookup? As far as I know there are two ports, like I described above. But aren't the schrader valves? Meaning they'd need the right kind of hookup to keep the valve open so that it could pull air. Could you provide a link to the type of pump you say will work?
Couldn't I just buy a recharge kit, hook up the new accumulator, and immediately refill the system? Would that cause any problems?
Mike
Originally Posted by buschman
Couldn't I just buy a recharge kit, hook up the new accumulator, and immediately refill the system? Would that cause any problems?
Mike
The full tilt **** method is to install all the pieces & put a vacuum on it to remove all moisture in the system.
The low service port is on the accumulator. That is where you charge & the only one them kits should fit.
You would need a hose & a pump + an air compressor for the air powered vacuum pump if you go that route.
Like on this page; http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=3177
That is the cheapest route you can go.
I just had a belt break and the lower a/c hose has a small hole in and was spewing green stuff all over. Am I going to have to replace the accumlator also? I'm not going to use the air until I get a new hose on it so will the compressor be okay? Also, the accumlator, is that the small tank that sit's above the compressor on the passenger side?
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From: Germantown, MD
From what I've learned, yes, you will need to replace the A/C canister and have the sysem vacuum pumped for about 15 minutes to insure no air is inside. The A/C system uses refridgerant as lubricant. So be careful not to use any of your "A/C on" temp settings (which is everything but vent only and floor only, I think).
Mike
Mike
Originally Posted by buschman
From what I've learned, yes, you will need to replace the A/C canister and have the sysem vacuum pumped for about 15 minutes to insure no air is inside. The A/C system uses refridgerant as lubricant. So be careful not to use any of your "A/C on" temp settings (which is everything but vent only and floor only, I think).
Mike
Mike
Originally Posted by wrencher
Dont worry if the A/C system is empty the compressor will not be able to engage. There is a pressure swicth to ensure enough refrigerant exsists for safe operation.
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From: Germantown, MD
From what i was told that's how you get mildew in the system and once it's in there it's difficult to get out. Can give you a foul smelling system. But again this is just what I've been told by a few. I'm no A/C pro.
Mike
Mike