motor oil
Originally Posted by Ackattack1
I switched from M1 10W-30 to 0W-40 and my oil consumption has went away (not that I was using a lot) I think one reason "the engineer" at GM say to use 5W30 is because it may get you a little better gas mileage. From what I've read, the M1 10W-30 offers a little better wear protection than the 5W30, and is a thin 10W30 anyways.
Oil also acts as a cushion between your main and rod journals' corresponding bearings. Certain oil viscosities are recommended for certain bearing clearances for a certain reason. That's why cars leave the factory with the engineer's recommendation instead of 'go with whatever you think will work best'...
My take on using diff weights is any two engines of even the same design may have different clearances therefore may act/respond differently to different oils. You can do whatever you'd like with cold weights as the engine isn't cold for long, nor SHOULD it be under load while cold. The lower the cold weight, the quicker pumpability @ start-up. But I myself wouldn't screw with running temp weights for the sake of bearing clearances. If piston ring blow-bye is causing oil consumption, perhaps, but that's just a bandaid for either a worn engine (worn rings), a pluged PCV system, or maybe even a lumpy cam causing low engine vacuum. Worn-out valve seals will cause oil consumption also.
All of this is either news to newbies, or obvious to those that know what they're doing-especially those such as PATMAN here that goes as far as testing all the weights. Follow what you'd like, but buyer beware, not all engines act alike...Mine didn't like the 40 weight, but took to 20 for 30k miles w/o one bit of wear. Strange? Sure, but just proves the 'no two are the same' theory...
My take on using diff weights is any two engines of even the same design may have different clearances therefore may act/respond differently to different oils. You can do whatever you'd like with cold weights as the engine isn't cold for long, nor SHOULD it be under load while cold. The lower the cold weight, the quicker pumpability @ start-up. But I myself wouldn't screw with running temp weights for the sake of bearing clearances. If piston ring blow-bye is causing oil consumption, perhaps, but that's just a bandaid for either a worn engine (worn rings), a pluged PCV system, or maybe even a lumpy cam causing low engine vacuum. Worn-out valve seals will cause oil consumption also.
All of this is either news to newbies, or obvious to those that know what they're doing-especially those such as PATMAN here that goes as far as testing all the weights. Follow what you'd like, but buyer beware, not all engines act alike...Mine didn't like the 40 weight, but took to 20 for 30k miles w/o one bit of wear. Strange? Sure, but just proves the 'no two are the same' theory...
Originally Posted by ws62001ta
so the stuff i pick up from walmart, 10w 30 is not syntheiic? or is all oil synthetic
There are also 'synthetic blends' or semi synthetics but I wouldn't bother with most of those.
Synthetics aren't mandatory or a 'must have' but they do offer a lot of great advantages over conventional (aka: 'dino') type oils.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 293
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From: TX.
Originally Posted by NoseUpChromeDown
Oil also acts as a cushion between your main and rod journals' corresponding bearings. Certain oil viscosities are recommended for certain bearing clearances for a certain reason. That's why cars leave the factory with the engineer's recommendation instead of 'go with whatever you think will work best'...
My take on using diff weights is any two engines of even the same design may have different clearances therefore may act/respond differently to different oils. You can do whatever you'd like with cold weights as the engine isn't cold for long, nor SHOULD it be under load while cold. The lower the cold weight, the quicker pumpability @ start-up. But I myself wouldn't screw with running temp weights for the sake of bearing clearances. If piston ring blow-bye is causing oil consumption, perhaps, but that's just a bandaid for either a worn engine (worn rings), a pluged PCV system, or maybe even a lumpy cam causing low engine vacuum. Worn-out valve seals will cause oil consumption also.
All of this is either news to newbies, or obvious to those that know what they're doing-especially those such as PATMAN here that goes as far as testing all the weights. Follow what you'd like, but buyer beware, not all engines act alike...Mine didn't like the 40 weight, but took to 20 for 30k miles w/o one bit of wear. Strange? Sure, but just proves the 'no two are the same' theory...
My take on using diff weights is any two engines of even the same design may have different clearances therefore may act/respond differently to different oils. You can do whatever you'd like with cold weights as the engine isn't cold for long, nor SHOULD it be under load while cold. The lower the cold weight, the quicker pumpability @ start-up. But I myself wouldn't screw with running temp weights for the sake of bearing clearances. If piston ring blow-bye is causing oil consumption, perhaps, but that's just a bandaid for either a worn engine (worn rings), a pluged PCV system, or maybe even a lumpy cam causing low engine vacuum. Worn-out valve seals will cause oil consumption also.
All of this is either news to newbies, or obvious to those that know what they're doing-especially those such as PATMAN here that goes as far as testing all the weights. Follow what you'd like, but buyer beware, not all engines act alike...Mine didn't like the 40 weight, but took to 20 for 30k miles w/o one bit of wear. Strange? Sure, but just proves the 'no two are the same' theory...
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the thinner the oil you run the more horsepower and better gas mileage you get but you also get less protection thats why 5w-30 is a good weight to run so that you get the best of each. Although the german 0w-30 that patman often talks about shows to be a very good choice as well. I run mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30, I used to run castrol gtx 5w-30 and have run castrol syntec 5w-30 in the past. Mobil 1 is a few bucks cheaper for 6 quarts than syntec thats the main reason why I run it, the other is that all gm oils are made by mobil so I know that gm won't give me any problems if I'm running mobil and have a problem with my motor. I don't think that breaking a motor in on synthetic is a good idea since synthetics don't wear as much and you need some wear during break in periods. I think that for best break in run a good conventional oil like castrol gtx. I recommend to change the oil after the first 1500 miles and then at 3000, then at 6000 switch to synthetic. I've seen the drain plugs on vehicles recieving their first oil change at 3000 miles and the magnetic tip on the plug is covered with metal shavings from everything getting broke in and i'm sure the oil filter has a ton of assembly lube clogging it at that point.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by z2802sunsetls1
hey patman where can u get 0-30 from castrol ? also u think its better then redline 5w30?
I do believe it's better than Redline, it's certainly showing very good oil analysis results for everyone who has tried it. I've yet to see a bad report on German Castrol.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 224
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From: dumont
patman i went to auto zone .com and they have castol syn 0w-30 but it dosnt say german 0w-30 is it the same or no. and its 4.99 a quart it that the german oneor no . and also they dont have it in stock
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by z2802sunsetls1
patman i went to auto zone .com and they have castol syn 0w-30 but it dosnt say german 0w-30 is it the same or no. and its 4.99 a quart it that the german oneor no . and also they dont have it in stock
If it doesn't say made in germany on the back label, that's not it. Here is a thread with a picture of the label:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=005261
Go to Autozone. They have it randomly among the stock there. Pull the Castrol bottles off the shelf and start looking, make sure you look at 15-20 bottles, because they are mixed in on the shelves. Some autozones will have German, some have only USA.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 224
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From: dumont
k guys i went to auto zone and its says right under sae0-30 in red made in germany on the right side of the bottle not on the left where the picture says, so is that the right one or no, cause i looked at all the others weights and on the right where im sayin said castol north america, i hope this is it 
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by z2802sunsetls1
k guys i went to auto zone and its says right under sae0-30 in red made in germany on the right side of the bottle not on the left where the picture says, so is that the right one or no, cause i looked at all the others weights and on the right where im sayin said castol north america, i hope this is it
