Really? I did a shitty job on my first tb, which is on my car right now. Don't mind admitting that since I've learned from it. Even with that crap I noticed a gain. Soon I'll be taking that out and re-doing it using the process I use currently, and I'm sure I'll notice another gain. Different people's cars react different. If you have a stock car, then it will prolly not react the same as someone with a 224 or a G5X3 in theirs. Know what I'm sayin? All these mods build up on eachother, cuz eventually you'll need them all to get the most out of your setup. Hope that helps. If not, shoot me a PM and I'll try and help ya out.

 

Does anyone know if the throttle stop mod is applyable to c5s? They are throttle by wire. If this makes a difference. Hmmmm same t.b. simply electronic???

 

This is the TB that went on my car. It was great quality and was a very easy install. Thanks Travis

 

Does not apply.

 

which hole is the "air hole" and which is "IAC hole" ? Per TB porting article on ls1camaro.net, the first one needs to be drilled 11/64" and the second one 15/64" ...

Why would I drill the epoxy covered holes ? Are they supposed to be smaller than the original ones, to allow less air passage through them (hence more through the TB blade passage) ?

 

What epoxy did you use?

 

I always wondered what the second hole was (heh heh). I would imagine the one to the right, looking at the engine from the front, would be IAC, and the one on the left would be PCV?

 

Thanks Another_user...

I'd like to know also...

 

I used Epoxy Putty that I got at Home Depot. Not sure of the brand, but it worked great. Really thick (just like putty ), made it very easy to work with.

 

thanks a.u.!!

 

Just to help Travis out with some of these little details...For those of you at home, as long as the IAC entry is close in size to the IAC runner inside the unit, and the PCV inlet is somewhat close to the inlet ID, you're set to go. It's not necessary to try and get super precise with that part of the job.

There are hundreds of different types of epoxies on the market that would work just fine for the job. As long as the bonding surface is very clean (ie: glass/sand blasted, acid dipped, or sanded), a standard JB-Weld stick will hold plenty firm for the job. It's easily drilled as well.

A ported unit is worth around 5rw on a factory H/C car, and has shown to be worth twice that or more with a larger cam and/or heads. This will all depend on your combo. Throttle response is really the big improvement. You hear a lot of 'I must've gained XX hp' when they're really feeling the throttle response/torque addition. It's a worth-while/beneficial mod.

The throttle stop mod showed almost no improvement on the flow bench during testing. I consider it a waste of time for the do-it-yourselfer, and a waste of money for those that pay extra for it when buying a modded unit.

One other mod that's worth the trouble is what's called a 'half-shaft' job. It's exactly as it sounds. Half of the shaft (the half facing outward/to the front of the car) is simply removed-cut off. It showed a worth-while difference on the flow bench @ 75%-up throttle. We tested it against 8psi for boosted applications without any strength issues. I don't know that I'd throw 15psi at it, but that's an uncommon environment anyway.

It's looking good Travis. Every completed unit will look better and better-until you get tired of eating aluminum and start slacking that is

Anyway...

 

NoseUp, thanks for the good info!

 

Sorry I haven't responded to your comments/questions yesterday/today, I passed out yesterday after having an insanely rough two weeks topped off by the most insane crock of **** @ work. Not to mention my T/A is wrecked right now

I use JB-Weld as of right now. I'm looking into a different epoxy that will polish better, but that would be more expensive and therefore cost would....you get the idea. **** rolls down hill. But like NoseUp said, it works great as long as the surface is prepped before use, which I do.

NoseUp, I appreciate the comments. Again, thanks for all the help. I'll be posting up links to another TB when I get it done hopefully in a few days.

Guys feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

 

Hey, you are retired. You should be relaxing. (I know it is not that easy though...it sucks to retire and go back to work, I bet)

 

cyphur_traq

If this starts looking like an ad, it will be locked.

Feel free to answer any questions here in the open forum

 

John, no ad here. I've talked with Nine Ball, and I'm aware of what is/is not allowed. I'm more than willing to answer any questions in open forum, PM's just catch my attention a bit quicker, thats all

This thread was started just to showcase some work I have done, and that throttle body was given to mrhawk in a swap for his stock unit since I wanted to get some feedback by 3rd parties besides dyno #'s. I will be doing no advertising of any sort for any product/service of any kind on this board unless previously approved by Admin, or unless I become a Sponser. Thanks for the heads up tho.

Edit :

Another User ..... Retired and 21. Medical retirements are a bitch(on the TDRL right now). Was headed to West Point after a 6 month tour in Iraq with my unit, but the medical killed all that rather quick. Still need to plow through tho.....working towards my Bach right now, thinking about the FBI or CIA. Would still rather be in the greens tho.

 

looks good. nice job

 

thanks man!

 

Your TB's look good!
But whats the difference if the holes are epoxied or not. I have seen them both ways. Does anyone know if there is a difference in power or throttle response?

 

Epoxying them smoothes out the airflow, which is always a good thing. Generally means a boost in power and throttle response due to lower turbulence. The IAC and idle hole are drilled back out so as to not lose funtionality/drivability.

Thinkin about the FM12 I see!! I'm planning to throw a FM14 in early this spring if all goes well. Lemme know how it goes!