[Yet another] ASP pulley install story
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 38
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[Yet another] ASP pulley install story Hello:
A big yawn to all you way past this simple mod, but here goes the tale of the new improved ASP pulley from T Byrne.
Elapsed time from start to finish:
3 1/2 hrs.
Yeah, sounds like slow work ,but
1.Had to go to the auto parts store at one point.
2.Had trouble with the 3-jaw puller I borrowed from work.
A few thoughts:
1.Get a cheater pipe. I didn't have one and practically killed myself to get that factory bolt loose. It is ON THERE, trust me.Even with a two foot breaker bar, you'll pop an eyeball trying bust it loose.It moved a smidge, then I used my foot/leg pushing on the breaker bar, 24 mm socket with NO extension so the bar wouldn't fly off the crank bolt.
2.It's hard to get that screwdriver to wedge in correctly on the flexplate[A4] car, I wound up shoving it through one of the factory holes and bent the screwdriver and slightly enlarged the hole, I guess it will be OK.
3.Use the longer bolt to start the new pulley on, and GET A WASHER. I only realized too late the factory has a washer that you can't use on your longer install bolt.
4.Whoever said "heat the new pulley for 1/2 hr in a 250 F oven just prior to the install " was a genius. Just remember it will go on easier than the factory room temp method, so you'll botom it out without too much trouble.
5.I used never seize on the snout AND the bolt, now I hope I don't need the Loctite the factory recommends, because I do want to take that thing off again to do the cam in the future.
6.The heavy duty Rhino Ramps rule. Never again wasting time with jack stands! Those ramps made it a lot more pleasant.
How is it? Car revs up faster, no small bonus for you 2.73 A4 cars , doesn't feel a ton faster, but we'll see what the strip ET shows. Everyone says 0.1 in the quarter and maybe 1 mph, if that is true by itself proabably not worth the $$$, but they all add up. When the car is making way more than stock hp the sooner you get in the upper rpm range the better, so I think this mod will grow valuable with time. The 4.6 Mustang pulley set felt more dramatic when I swapped that out, the GM is probably better designed to begin with. Power steering and charging seem the same as before.
Later,
Mike
A big yawn to all you way past this simple mod, but here goes the tale of the new improved ASP pulley from T Byrne.
Elapsed time from start to finish:
3 1/2 hrs.
Yeah, sounds like slow work ,but
1.Had to go to the auto parts store at one point.
2.Had trouble with the 3-jaw puller I borrowed from work.
A few thoughts:
1.Get a cheater pipe. I didn't have one and practically killed myself to get that factory bolt loose. It is ON THERE, trust me.Even with a two foot breaker bar, you'll pop an eyeball trying bust it loose.It moved a smidge, then I used my foot/leg pushing on the breaker bar, 24 mm socket with NO extension so the bar wouldn't fly off the crank bolt.
2.It's hard to get that screwdriver to wedge in correctly on the flexplate[A4] car, I wound up shoving it through one of the factory holes and bent the screwdriver and slightly enlarged the hole, I guess it will be OK.
3.Use the longer bolt to start the new pulley on, and GET A WASHER. I only realized too late the factory has a washer that you can't use on your longer install bolt.
4.Whoever said "heat the new pulley for 1/2 hr in a 250 F oven just prior to the install " was a genius. Just remember it will go on easier than the factory room temp method, so you'll botom it out without too much trouble.
5.I used never seize on the snout AND the bolt, now I hope I don't need the Loctite the factory recommends, because I do want to take that thing off again to do the cam in the future.
6.The heavy duty Rhino Ramps rule. Never again wasting time with jack stands! Those ramps made it a lot more pleasant.
How is it? Car revs up faster, no small bonus for you 2.73 A4 cars , doesn't feel a ton faster, but we'll see what the strip ET shows. Everyone says 0.1 in the quarter and maybe 1 mph, if that is true by itself proabably not worth the $$$, but they all add up. When the car is making way more than stock hp the sooner you get in the upper rpm range the better, so I think this mod will grow valuable with time. The 4.6 Mustang pulley set felt more dramatic when I swapped that out, the GM is probably better designed to begin with. Power steering and charging seem the same as before.
Later,
Mike
"is there a special tool made for the ls1 to get the pulley off? "
I rented a 3-jaw from autozone, a small one ( they had 2 sizes ).
Use it on the inside and attach to the ears inside the stock piece; you'll see what I mean when you look in.
Not to hijack, just trying to help.
Good job on 3.5 hours; a friend and I took 4 recently removing his ASP and going back to stock.
I rented a 3-jaw from autozone, a small one ( they had 2 sizes ).
Use it on the inside and attach to the ears inside the stock piece; you'll see what I mean when you look in.
Not to hijack, just trying to help.
Good job on 3.5 hours; a friend and I took 4 recently removing his ASP and going back to stock.
the best thing i found for the stock pulley is a three jawed posi lock puller you can lock the jaws down and don't have to worry about it slipping not cheap cost close to a hundred bucks .
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Was it made 'new and improved' recently, or is this just since the SFI certification a few years ago?
Prolly just the SFI update he's referrin to. I haven't heard about anything else.
Which is really not new but a few years old. The correct term would probably be the newest or latest version. 
Originally Posted by HumpinSS
the new one doesnt have to be machined to clear double roller timing chains
Originally Posted by 8-Pack
I asked this when I was trying to get my pulley off but didnt get a clear answer, is there a special tool made for the ls1 to get the pulley off? Anybody.
