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header installation tips

Old Dec 2, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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Default header installation tips

Just ordered a set of coated race pacesetter longtubes for my 99 Trans-am. I know its easier if i get the car as far up in the air as possible. Is there anything else i need to know before i go to install them, special tools,ect.... Any tricks to getting them in faster or easier? And are stage 8 bolts worth the money?
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 12:54 PM
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Not to hard of a job. wd40 all cat to mainifold bolts, remove all plugs and wires. I didn't have any problems with the stearing with kooks I also have a tube kmember so no clearance problems there. I read some have to notch stock kmember. And like you said get the car up as high as you can. I used a lift, but i dont think doing it on the ground would be that bad. I also have the arp studs they are $$ but they maid installation by my self easyer and look nicer but the stock bolts will do just fine also.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 01:20 PM
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there is a write up on it that tells you EVERYTHING you need to know...however it is the old setup so he had to knotch the k-member...you most likely wont...get it high and use CAUTION...make sure everything is secure before working...
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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I just put my Pacesetter LT's in and they were pretty easy. I also was doing clutch at the same time, so I had my tranny out, but, I don't think you will have any probs. I did mine on the ground, I had two jackstands at full extension under the K member, then jacked the rear end up, and put ramps under the rear tires. This gave plenty of room for the header install and dropping/reinstalling tranny. I had pull the sparkplugs on the drivers side to get it in. I put new plugs in on the pass. side while there was no header/manifold. I had a hard time getting the plugs started in the holes till I used a spark plug boot from a old plug to hold the plug and threaded them finger tight with the boot, then tightened em down. Actually, the boot came from one of my wires that I broke trying to get them off. That was prob. the worst part for me was getting the wires off the stock plugs. Oh, and I did this by myself, so if you have a helper it should be pretty easy.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 777
there is a write up on it that tells you EVERYTHING you need to know...however it is the old setup so he had to knotch the k-member...you most likely wont...get it high and use CAUTION...make sure everything is secure before working...
Where is that writeup, i did a search and couldn't really find what i was looking for.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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Also are the copper header gaskets really worth the extra money or will the steel gm gaskets be just as good as anything else?
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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Take out the last coil pack bolt on the passenger side now, so that when your headers get here you won't have to fool with it. My car was relatively easy since I don't have traction control. I had mine out in 2 minutes, but some cars prove to be more complicated than others. It will keep you from being frustrated because that is one of the first things you do. It will make your header swap much more enjoyable.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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GM gaskets are the best for the headers, hands down.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:31 PM
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http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html

there is the pacesetter install guide...it was in jerami's sticky...you may find more stuff you want there...it is in the external section..user name : jrp ...(if you did not know)
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:34 PM
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Removing the coil packs on both sides allows you to remove and replace all of the header bolts and spark plugs from the top.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ddelallata
Removing the coil packs on both sides allows you to remove and replace all of the header bolts and spark plugs from the top.
Didn't touch my coil packs, and don't see why you would. All the header bolts and spark plugs are easilly accesible with them on. Some need to be reached from underneath, but, your already down there anyway. Oh well, 6 of this 1/2 dozen of that I reckon'
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 07:25 PM
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I do all of my bolts and sparkplugs from the top. I didnt take any plugs out when I put my headers on. I did take my passenger side coil pack assembly off to make room for my big hands. I unbolted the steering shaft and swung it out of the way.

The pace headers just slid right in with no interference at all.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 07:33 PM
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Can't you install one of the sides from the top?
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by git_sum
Can't you install one of the sides from the top?
Possibly thhe pass. side, but both went in easily from the bottom for me.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by git_sum
Can't you install one of the sides from the top?
Don't see how, but why would you go through that trouble since invariably you'll have to get the car in the air anyhow for the other side? Put them both in from the bottom, its much easier.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:15 PM
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I just changed out a header gasket on my LT's and i had a hard time getting the bolts back in, so i had to put a small jack under the header and pump it up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to get the bolts in. Then they went in by hand. But that is with all my exhaust system already hooked up. Hope that helps somebody in the future!
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 08:55 AM
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I didn't think new bolts were that important?????
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 10:48 AM
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I used the factory bolts again. One year later and still no leaks.
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