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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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Default belt keeps popping off

I went to the track today after my cam swap and the belt kept getting thrown off while shifting from 3rd to 4th, it would also eat off 1 of the ribs. It did this twice in a row. I couldnt afford another belt so I just threw 1 of the ripped up ones on and limped home.

Some people were saying the ASP pulley isnt on tight enough, that it might be slightly crooked, hence throwing at high RPMS. My buddy told me to get one of those tensioner pulleys with the higher lip, where can I get that?
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHotZ28
I went to the track today after my cam swap and the belt kept getting thrown off while shifting from 3rd to 4th, it would also eat off 1 of the ribs. It did this twice in a row. I couldnt afford another belt so I just threw 1 of the ripped up ones on and limped home.

Some people were saying the ASP pulley isnt on tight enough, that it might be slightly crooked, hence throwing at high RPMS. My buddy told me to get one of those tensioner pulleys with the higher lip, where can I get that?
Higher lip is not necessary. You need the Katech adjustable tensioner. You could always do both, but I have never heard of anyone throwing a belt with the Katech unit. Plus it looks nice.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 04:10 PM
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I got the tensioner pulley with the lip since it was cheaper than the katech tensioner and it did the trick. Thunder Racing usually has them in stock.

BTW: Did you have the ASP pullies before you did the cam install? It is possibly that it didn't seat correcly if you never had a problem with it before the cam install.

Last edited by GM Muscle; Dec 5, 2004 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
BTW: Did you have the ASP pullies before you did the cam install? It is possibly that it didn't seat correcly if you never had a problem with it before the cam install.
correct, I had the ASP pulley before the cam swap, and never had a problem. I suspect I didnt torque the pulley down far enough, and it might have a slight wobble to it, enough to throw a belt at high rpms.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 05:57 PM
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Yeah I would get a new bolt or a reusable ASP bolt and try to reseat it. If you put the pulley in the oven at like 200* it wil slide on much easier. Did you install a double roller timing chain? I've heard that the older style ASP pulleys need to be machined to work well with the double rollers.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Yeah I would get a new bolt or a reusable ASP bolt and try to reseat it. If you put the pulley in the oven at like 200* it wil slide on much easier. Did you install a double roller timing chain? I've heard that the older style ASP pulleys need to be machined to work well with the double rollers.
nope, no double roller. Ive had a JWIS chain ever since my first cam swap back in May. Ill reseat it tomorrow and see if that fixes it.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHotZ28
nope, no double roller. Ive had a JWIS chain ever since my first cam swap back in May. Ill reseat it tomorrow and see if that fixes it.
Reseat it...what a PITA. Can't you look down at the pulley and see if it is wobbling? It should be pretty obvious...wobbling pulley are not hard to miss most of the time. With how far thing gets jammed on the crank snout, I doubt it is on crooked.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 07:45 PM
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You could put a straight edge from the crank pulley to the other pullies to see if the crank pully is out of line.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 09:39 PM
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i had the same issues, then i bought a gatorback belt from autozone and it never happened again. try that before buying the expensive tensioner
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bmfcamaro
i had the same issues, then i bought a gatorback belt from autozone and it never happened again. try that before buying the expensive tensioner
thanks I'll try that tomorrow before renting a 240lb-ft torque wrench and buying another $7 bolt.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 10:24 PM
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I'm just curious, when it jumps off, do you think it's coming off the balancer/crank pulley or at another point of contact? I ask because I'm trying to decide which pulley to use and the SLP has the high sides to stop it from jumping off.

Thoughts?
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jcarroll845
I'm just curious, when it jumps off, do you think it's coming off the balancer/crank pulley or at another point of contact? I ask because I'm trying to decide which pulley to use and the SLP has the high sides to stop it from jumping off.

Thoughts?
Its interesting you brought this up. I was looking at the small wheel that is above and to the left the alternater pulley (the one without ridges or lips), and I think I didnt tighten that one down enough. I had to take it off to reach one of the water pump bolts.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHotZ28
Its interesting you brought this up. I was looking at the small wheel that is above and to the left the alternater pulley (the one without ridges or lips), and I think I didnt tighten that one down enough. I had to take it off to reach one of the water pump bolts.
Yeah, it seems to me it's very possible and more probable looking at all the pullies that it would come off that one then something with sides on it.

I'm still trying to decide which pulley to use but it seems that the ASP pulley is the pulley of choice both for weight and reliability. The SLP might be a little more reliable but in my mind if the belt wants to hop off, it will just come off in another spot if you have high retaining walls on the crank pulley.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jcarroll845
Yeah, it seems to me it's very possible and more probable looking at all the pullies that it would come off that one then something with sides on it.

I'm still trying to decide which pulley to use but it seems that the ASP pulley is the pulley of choice both for weight and reliability. The SLP might be a little more reliable but in my mind if the belt wants to hop off, it will just come off in another spot if you have high retaining walls on the crank pulley.
I thought that I had heard that ASP was suposed to put a lip on the new crank pullies. You might want to call a couple vendors and see if that's true. If not tell them you want a "Larry" pulley. That's the tensioner pulley with the lip, it should be about $65.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 12:56 PM
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I'm checking into it and I'll post the answer as soon as I hear back.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 03:08 PM
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I got the answer... ASP has made some minor changes to the lip on the pulley to keep the belt from jumping off and my source tells me he hasn't had any issues or complaints from customers since the change. I think it's a go.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jcarroll845
I got the answer... ASP has made some minor changes to the lip on the pulley to keep the belt from jumping off and my source tells me he hasn't had any issues or complaints from customers since the change. I think it's a go.
I'd still run the Katech tensioner. It's a much on cars that are revving high. You can get it from Thunder.
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