heating pully
Put the oven on warm or the lowest setting and go from there...
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The long bolt might work, but I bet it's really hard on the threads in the
crank, which is something I wouldn't want to even think about stripping.
You'll have to pay for the long bolt or code 4's kit so I'd go the safe way
and buy the all thread rod.
On topic, I heated my ASP pulley with a space heater and just got it warm
to the touch, maybe 100degrees. It slid on a little bit but not much it was
also about 40 degrees outside when I installed it.
You'll never get the whole thing heated up uniformly with a propane torch. You need to heat the whole pulley not just the center. It will still need a bolt to pull it on but will bottom out a lot [A LOT] easier.
Good luck
Mike
I'm sure it'll be quite obvious once I'm in there but since I've never messed with any pulley's on any cars I'm just not with ya
If you can't find this anywhere, none of the sponsors I checked stock this thing:
16 MM x 2.0 [coarse]thread pitch x 120 mm long, grade DIN 10.9 [metric grade 8] bolt for crank pulley removal/installs......
Available through:
Maryland Metrics, Inc
6119 Oakleaf Ave
410-358-3130 phone
e-mail:sales@mdmetric.com.
..........not to take away from code4's offering, but you can get the bolt for $3.
The washer I got from Reilly's auto for 60 cents. And steel expands when heated, always think of those old Western movies, they heat the hoop then shrink it over the wooden wagon wheel with cold water, if you live in WV it's always cold as a witch's T anyway so you might not notice, but cold shrinks steel....
Shrinkage.
Mike
If you can't find this anywhere, none of the sponsors I checked stock this thing:
16 MM x 2.0 [coarse]thread pitch x 120 mm long, grade DIN 10.9 [metric grade 8] bolt for crank pulley removal/installs......
Available through:
Maryland Metrics, Inc
6119 Oakleaf Ave
410-358-3130 phone
e-mail:sales@mdmetric.com.
..........not to take away from code4's offering, but you can get the bolt for $3.
The washer I got from Reilly's auto for 60 cents. And steel expands when heated, always think of those old Western movies, they heat the hoop then shrink it over the wooden wagon wheel with cold water, if you live in WV it's always cold as a witch's T anyway so you might not notice, but cold shrinks steel....
Shrinkage.
Mike
I use a 120mm long bolt as well for my 3 jaw puller to push against when removing the pulley. $9.00 at NAPA. The problem with the 120mm bolt I have seen on this board is that guys bottom out the threads and some how get the bolt stuck in the crank. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ley+bolt+stuck
I think it just boils down to common sense.
Last edited by code4; Dec 31, 2004 at 11:16 PM.
Oh yeah, then you're in big trouble. Once you gall the threads, you can you get an accurate torque reading? For that, you be better off with your threaded rod

I understand you made a few crank bolts with threaded rod.
I could use one for my install.
Do you have a kit left?
I would like one.
Please provide paypal info if still available.
Thanks,
Kelly





