Any word yet on the Edelbrock headers with the new Ti-tech coating?
#42
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I believe when the DynaTechs first came out, they were a slip on collector and people had bad times with them. Because of the collector not being sealed, when the exhaust would pulse, it would pull in fresh outside air through the slip fit joints and freak out the O2s. They also leave like crazy... They were then made a race only header.
#45
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Originally Posted by mx721suzuki
If you can't say where you got them from, how about a part number? ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
65653.....1998-99 application specific Ti-TECH coated, 1-3/4" stepped to 1-7/8", 3.5" welded-on 4-into-1 collector. Fabricated with emissions hook-ups. 02 extension harnesses, gaskets and hardware are also included.
65652.....1998-99 with ceramic coating.
65683.....2000-02 application specific Ti-TECH coated, 1-3/4" stepped to 1-7/8", 3.5" welded-on 4-into-1 collector. Fabricated with emissions hook-ups. 02 extension harnesses, gaskets and hardware are also included.
65682.....2000-02 with ceramic coating.
6571.....Y-Pipe for use with all Edelbrock full-length headers.
I hope this helps
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#46
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Alright. I ordered my Long tubes Thursday and they came to my house today,and I didn't pay extra for shipping. Damn that was fast. Good looking header. The Ti-Tech coating is about as thin as paint. It doesn't scuff easily. The coating should hold up under heat. I don't think it will have good thermal properties, but I can always get them coated on top of everything.
I can also answer my own question about what comes with these headers. I don't need to post pics because The Alchemist did. (thanks)
Alright. Here is a break-down of the parts included: With the headers
2 - 26" O2 extension harnesses. (about $50 a pair from vendors)
2 - deceant looking header gaskets
2 - slip-on merge collectors
2 - O2 bungs
1 - egr gasket
2 - air tube gaskets
2 - collector extensions
air tubes
egr tube
Collector mounting tabs and hardware (used after Collector tunning)
all mounting hardware
With the y-pipe:
1 - adaptor tube (reducer from 3" to 2 1/2" for Itermediate pipe)
2 - 3" T-Bolt calmps
2 - 3 1/2" T-bolt clamps
The kit comes with everything. The only thing I''m going to buy are a set of GM exhaust manifold gaskets, and either Stage 8 header bolts or Breslin Header bolts.
I can also answer my own question about what comes with these headers. I don't need to post pics because The Alchemist did. (thanks)
Alright. Here is a break-down of the parts included: With the headers
2 - 26" O2 extension harnesses. (about $50 a pair from vendors)
2 - deceant looking header gaskets
2 - slip-on merge collectors
2 - O2 bungs
1 - egr gasket
2 - air tube gaskets
2 - collector extensions
air tubes
egr tube
Collector mounting tabs and hardware (used after Collector tunning)
all mounting hardware
With the y-pipe:
1 - adaptor tube (reducer from 3" to 2 1/2" for Itermediate pipe)
2 - 3" T-Bolt calmps
2 - 3 1/2" T-bolt clamps
The kit comes with everything. The only thing I''m going to buy are a set of GM exhaust manifold gaskets, and either Stage 8 header bolts or Breslin Header bolts.
Last edited by Richiec77; 01-15-2005 at 03:16 PM. Reason: comments
#48
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i have the 6570 painted headers, but i haven't put them on yet because the car is in storage. (it was -4 degrees this morning in chicago without the wind chill) but i might be getting the ti-tech ones with the collector already welded on, because i don't want to worry about them leaking down the road as well as with the ti-tech coating, not rusting. so i don't know how the install is or how they perform, but they look like they can hold there own. edelbrock told me that the ti-tech coating is supposed to be as strong as ceramic coating, just a little more affordable.
#49
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I have been running these headers for the past 4 months. Just some things I have to comment on:
THe headers are a TIGHT slip fit and do not leak. I tacked them on each primary , but didnt run a full bead around them. There is no leaking or noise.
Second: place the o2 bungs where you suggested in the picture before. That is the perfect placement in the collector for the o2's to maintain the right heat and be placed right in the exhaust flow.
Third: for the install, the car is has to be jacked up like 15-20 inches in the front. The headers slide in from the bottom by placing them almost vertical...
Fourth: if you have an automatic, the passenger side headers rests on the tranny cooler lines and mine actually rests on the transmission itself.
THe headers are a TIGHT slip fit and do not leak. I tacked them on each primary , but didnt run a full bead around them. There is no leaking or noise.
Second: place the o2 bungs where you suggested in the picture before. That is the perfect placement in the collector for the o2's to maintain the right heat and be placed right in the exhaust flow.
Third: for the install, the car is has to be jacked up like 15-20 inches in the front. The headers slide in from the bottom by placing them almost vertical...
Fourth: if you have an automatic, the passenger side headers rests on the tranny cooler lines and mine actually rests on the transmission itself.
#50
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Originally Posted by xssive
I have been running these headers for the past 4 months. Just some things I have to comment on:
THe headers are a TIGHT slip fit and do not leak. I tacked them on each primary , but didnt run a full bead around them. There is no leaking or noise.
Second: place the o2 bungs where you suggested in the picture before. That is the perfect placement in the collector for the o2's to maintain the right heat and be placed right in the exhaust flow.
Third: for the install, the car is has to be jacked up like 15-20 inches in the front. The headers slide in from the bottom by placing them almost vertical...
Fourth: if you have an automatic, the passenger side headers rests on the tranny cooler lines and mine actually rests on the transmission itself.
THe headers are a TIGHT slip fit and do not leak. I tacked them on each primary , but didnt run a full bead around them. There is no leaking or noise.
Second: place the o2 bungs where you suggested in the picture before. That is the perfect placement in the collector for the o2's to maintain the right heat and be placed right in the exhaust flow.
Third: for the install, the car is has to be jacked up like 15-20 inches in the front. The headers slide in from the bottom by placing them almost vertical...
Fourth: if you have an automatic, the passenger side headers rests on the tranny cooler lines and mine actually rests on the transmission itself.
So far I'm banging the collector in place I'm seeing gaps now. Hopefully once they're all the way on they won't show any light around the primaries.
#51
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Originally Posted by xssive
I have been running these headers for the past 4 months. Just some things I have to comment on:
THe headers are a TIGHT slip fit and do not leak. I tacked them on each primary , but didnt run a full bead around them. There is no leaking or noise.
Second: place the o2 bungs where you suggested in the picture before. That is the perfect placement in the collector for the o2's to maintain the right heat and be placed right in the exhaust flow.
Third: for the install, the car is has to be jacked up like 15-20 inches in the front. The headers slide in from the bottom by placing them almost vertical...
Fourth: if you have an automatic, the passenger side headers rests on the tranny cooler lines and mine actually rests on the transmission itself.
THe headers are a TIGHT slip fit and do not leak. I tacked them on each primary , but didnt run a full bead around them. There is no leaking or noise.
Second: place the o2 bungs where you suggested in the picture before. That is the perfect placement in the collector for the o2's to maintain the right heat and be placed right in the exhaust flow.
Third: for the install, the car is has to be jacked up like 15-20 inches in the front. The headers slide in from the bottom by placing them almost vertical...
Fourth: if you have an automatic, the passenger side headers rests on the tranny cooler lines and mine actually rests on the transmission itself.
I attached a picture showing where I put my 02.
#52
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Mine are literally on the bellhousing. I am getting alot of knock I think as a direct result.
If you are seeing gaps no on the collectors, I would look at the primaries for that. Mine had to be beat on with a 10 pound sledge and a block of wood to get the last inch on. They are a TIGHT fit...
Its funny you mention something about the o2's. My car was acting very strange lately like a totally flooded carbed car. Never threw any switchign codes or low signal codes for the o2's, but I swapped out the o2's after trying a bunch of other things. PROBLEM SOLVED . I went from seeing -25 ltft's to +18 ltfts with the new sensors. Glad I caught that before killing a piston. Note to self: tune with good o2 sensors!
If you are seeing gaps no on the collectors, I would look at the primaries for that. Mine had to be beat on with a 10 pound sledge and a block of wood to get the last inch on. They are a TIGHT fit...
Its funny you mention something about the o2's. My car was acting very strange lately like a totally flooded carbed car. Never threw any switchign codes or low signal codes for the o2's, but I swapped out the o2's after trying a bunch of other things. PROBLEM SOLVED . I went from seeing -25 ltft's to +18 ltfts with the new sensors. Glad I caught that before killing a piston. Note to self: tune with good o2 sensors!
#53
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Originally Posted by xssive
Mine are literally on the bellhousing. I am getting alot of knock I think as a direct result.
If you are seeing gaps no on the collectors, I would look at the primaries for that. Mine had to be beat on with a 10 pound sledge and a block of wood to get the last inch on. They are a TIGHT fit...
Its funny you mention something about the o2's. My car was acting very strange lately like a totally flooded carbed car. Never threw any switchign codes or low signal codes for the o2's, but I swapped out the o2's after trying a bunch of other things. PROBLEM SOLVED . I went from seeing -25 ltft's to +18 ltfts with the new sensors. Glad I caught that before killing a piston. Note to self: tune with good o2 sensors!
If you are seeing gaps no on the collectors, I would look at the primaries for that. Mine had to be beat on with a 10 pound sledge and a block of wood to get the last inch on. They are a TIGHT fit...
Its funny you mention something about the o2's. My car was acting very strange lately like a totally flooded carbed car. Never threw any switchign codes or low signal codes for the o2's, but I swapped out the o2's after trying a bunch of other things. PROBLEM SOLVED . I went from seeing -25 ltft's to +18 ltfts with the new sensors. Glad I caught that before killing a piston. Note to self: tune with good o2 sensors!
Yea, I'm beating then **** out of them. They are really a tight fit. Finnally got the leaks gone.
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Yall are going to hate life with a slip on collector and OBD2. Not to mention, they sound like *** from the air leaks ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
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I have had these on my car for months w/NO problems at all.
No leaks,doesn't sound like ***, no codes.
All I did was weld on the tabs and pull the collectors on. They fit very snug when cold and as soon as they warm up they work no differently than any other header I have used.
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Originally Posted by mdblackz28
has anyone else had problems with the header sitting on the trans cooler or anything else with these? i have heard only good things about them as far as install ease. just wondering if anyone else had prblems.
I had to grind about 1/4 in of metal off of the K member to get the clearance I wanted on the drivers side. Other than that they work great.
#59
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Well so much for "slip-on" merge collectors. I've been banging the hell out of the Driver's side now and they are a pain in the ***. I've slightly dented one of the tubes and have only got the collectors on about 1/2". I'm going to try heating up the Pass side collector to see if it helps it on easier.
Also been portting the excesses welding out of the ports and cleaning up the collector also. Definitly not bolt-on, and I wasn't expecting it to be, but the work is just dragging on now. Hopefully it will all be worth it in the end.
Also been portting the excesses welding out of the ports and cleaning up the collector also. Definitly not bolt-on, and I wasn't expecting it to be, but the work is just dragging on now. Hopefully it will all be worth it in the end.