The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

What I did was mark approximately how far on they should go. They I tried it a couple different ways and found the best way then wacked em on with a dead blow hammer a little at a time. Wasn't too bad once I figured it out.....

But just my luck, the first bolt on the driver's side snapped and the second bolt hole stripped out, so the head is off right now and getting helicoiled. Oh well, guess it serves me right for not running a tap through the bolt holes before re-installing. And before Marc chimes in, this would have happened even if I bought the 'stainless steel' headers.

JS

iTrader: (4)

JUNK,I wouldve gotten Hookers,QTP or Kooks...
Hey I bought Dyna's and got the shaft too,**** happens

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Nah man I wouldn't have said anything about that, it's obvious that it had nothing to do with header choice.
Sucks that it happened though.
You still have the Macs and Y pipes for sale or did they sell?

Mat

I'm interested now...

Would a TSP Catted Y work with these headers? Any particular advantage to going with these over a coated set of Pacesetters? I'm about to order some Pacesetters in the next month or so but this is interesting to say the least. I like that collector...

Any thoughts?

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

I hate the collectors. They are being a pain in the *** for me. But I could be the exception. I've also been cleaning up the welds around the primaries. Not bad but there are high spots around the primaries. Not too bad with a dremel. The collectors are really the only thing giving me problems. I was hopping to install them this weekend, but it looks like that will be delayed until I can get the collectors in place. I just hope the torch will help it along.

Oh Just trying a torch out to heat the collectors up, I believe this coating won't fail.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Also I forgot to add that I have the Victory "Race" style headers. No EGR, AIR, or O2 bung. You do have to asemble them. Edlebrock should have their true "bolt in" style out soon. If you don't want the hassle go with them. If you are looking to squeeze more out of them, go "Race Style".

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

It's not that big of a deal actually Marc... I feel good about being able to turn wrenches on my own car and to be able to deal with problems without having to call someone, I guess that's why it's a hobby.

Macs sold locally... it's surprising how many people wanted them.

I know people are very oppinionated about headers, but I liked what I had read about the edelbrocks and decided to pull the trigger one sunday afternoon.

At this point it will be march before I drive my car between work and vacation and the weather, so it'll be a while before I give feedback.

JS

iTrader: (4)

Wrenching on my car is serious fun,I got so lazy the last few yrs.
Good luck Bri,I'm sure they'll make good power.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

It is actually relaxing for me. I come home, have some dinner with the Misses and then head into the garage for an hour of less and tinker. The dog sits out there with me and its my quiet personal time away from reality. The cylinder head is sitting on my workbench right now awaiting a second helicoil.

Then I need to get new headbolts and a gasket, although the gasket looks good considering it only went on the car 2000 miles ago. Would it be okay to re-use it or is it not worth the risk???

I probably should get some ARP head studs as well as header studs, but I don't feel like pulling the passenger side at this point, but who knows, I may be inspired an do it anyways.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Can't blame ya there, totally agree.

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

After seing the pics posted of the Edlebrocks I decided to go ahead and order up a set for my bucket along with the Ypipe... I wont Install them until the new motor is in (hopefully end of FEB) but Im deffently looking forward to it... I was just curious if anyone here has used the ARP header stud kit for Ls1... might be a good deal with all the stripped holes I have heard about...

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

One big word of advice.... get a M8 x 1.25 tap and clean out all of the bolt holes. Also, make sure you hold the header up while threading all of the bolts in by hand or a short ratchet... the bolts should go in very easily. If you follow those words of advice, you'll have no issues.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Man that sucks that you stripped a couple of holes out. I live in Texas right now (From Chicago) and I'll be able to get some feed back. I might just wait until payday to go to the track, then install them, and run again. That should be a good indicator of the power with my set-up.

I will be growing into them soon. Planning on a LS6 intake, Shanner TB, Underdrive pulley, F13 cam and Re-freashed heads with a good 3 angle valve job, and a cutout.

Matt D

iTrader: (49)

no, they will not work with the tsp y pipe because they have 3.5in collectors, whereas the tsp is 3in.

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

If i Screw This quote deal up im sorry its auctually my first time.. but anyways im hoping to install the headers on the motor while the K member is dropped maybe save some time and or hassles.. the heads are brand new but you never know about the condition of the threads...... thanks for the heads up..

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Yea. I finally got the collector on and..............Damn I can see just a tiny bit of light from the pass side from 2 tubes. I tack welded them and can't pound them on any farther. They are all the way on. I'll have them on the car tommarrow. Oh yea. MAPP gas and OXY torch didn't hurt this coating. And while Tack welding the excess slag just push right off of the coating. Pretty cool.

I'm going to use a little JB weld to help seal the 2 primaries.

Zippinzee

This is old school but what we used to do on a slip colector header was put a little grease on the primary tubes and the collector. When the car is started the grease will turn to carbon sealing any potential leaks.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

finnaly got them in. I had loads of probs, not really related to the headers themselves. I broke the Temp sensor and fouled out my plugs so bad I had misfires and backfire.

Anyways, The coating is holding up great. The underhood temps have dropped a bit. I don't have the ability to directly compare with ceramic headers, but I should soon. THIS COATING IS TOUGH. I took Propane, MAPP gas, and MAPP/OXY torch to it. Didn't flinch. I had too because the coating seems to be able to shead heat really well. They wouldn't get hot enough to manipulate until I took out the MAPP/OXY.

They tuck up too well. At this point the Drivers side header is touching the floor boards at the collector. I'll be yanking the ORY back down to try and possision it better. On the Flanges they needed to be drilled out a little to fit right. seemed to be off a little just enough that 5 bolts would go in, but the 6th wouldn't. The supplied gaskets are working out great, and with only 5 bolts in the still sealled with no leaks. I have about 400 miles on the car now and with the exception of the ORY and Collector touching they seem great.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

My Pass side header does sit on the Trans cooler lines. I need to get some Header wrap for that.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Sounds great Richiec77.... My head should be back on the car tonight and bolt up the header if I feel ambitious tonight.

I leave for a cruise Sunday morning, so I may wait till I get back to fight with the ypipe, which isn't a slam on the ypipe, but doing it on your back is a pain, no matter who makes the ypipe.

I also picked up some goop at NAPA that goes over exhaust seems and hardens as it's heated to form a "weld" type seal. We'll see how well that works.

I'm also putting a torque strap on the driver's side head to the frame to give me the needed clearance between the floorboard and header. This way I can set it close and rest assured it won't bang.