still wont start
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still wont start alright, i fixed the wire going to the altermator and it still wont start.
the battery is fully charged, and firmly connected with no corrosion. when i turn the key the volt meter reads ~10, in the yell0ow zone. when i try and start it it cranks over once and then makes a loud clicking noise. any ideas on the cause of this problem???
the battery is fully charged, and firmly connected with no corrosion. when i turn the key the volt meter reads ~10, in the yell0ow zone. when i try and start it it cranks over once and then makes a loud clicking noise. any ideas on the cause of this problem???
check your starter ground and your battery cable to the starter, did u do a voltage drop of the starter positive cable? and how sure are u the battery is good, try jump starting the car or starting it with a charger on it.
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well, let me fully describe what happened.
after my cam install, everything was fine. as i drove the car, i noticed the voltage was gradually dropping, untill it got so bad that now it no longer starts, this all in about 2 days. i poked around the alternator a little and realized that the red wire comming out of the top was ripped out, so i fixed this tonight but i'm still haveing problems and it wont start.
after my cam install, everything was fine. as i drove the car, i noticed the voltage was gradually dropping, untill it got so bad that now it no longer starts, this all in about 2 days. i poked around the alternator a little and realized that the red wire comming out of the top was ripped out, so i fixed this tonight but i'm still haveing problems and it wont start.
If the charger has a Crank or start position , use it. Turn it to that and wait just a bit and then crank it. Driving around on just a battery and no alternator probably took a toll on the battery.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Troy,MI
Originally Posted by LSONE
well, let me fully describe what happened.
after my cam install, everything was fine. as i drove the car, i noticed the voltage was gradually dropping, untill it got so bad that now it no longer starts, this all in about 2 days. i poked around the alternator a little and realized that the red wire comming out of the top was ripped out, so i fixed this tonight but i'm still haveing problems and it wont start.
after my cam install, everything was fine. as i drove the car, i noticed the voltage was gradually dropping, untill it got so bad that now it no longer starts, this all in about 2 days. i poked around the alternator a little and realized that the red wire comming out of the top was ripped out, so i fixed this tonight but i'm still haveing problems and it wont start.
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alright, when i take the battery fully out and hook it up to the chargers, it says its fully charged, but when i put in in the car and attach the chargers, it says its empty 
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Just replace the battery with an Interstate if available. If you race a lot you might want to consider an Optima! I would yank the alternator and have it checked while swapping the battery. If your T/A still has the OEM battery...definetly replace it.
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well, the problem ended up being this.
when i put the battery screws into my battery and attached the charger it said it was charged for some reason, and it wasnt. so i took the rubber covers off the top and charged it that way, now everything is fine.
thanks for the help!
when i put the battery screws into my battery and attached the charger it said it was charged for some reason, and it wasnt. so i took the rubber covers off the top and charged it that way, now everything is fine.
thanks for the help! 
Sounds like the battery. Did you try jumping it? or you can start off of the charger if you have "crank" capability?
Same happend with my truck and jumped it from the TA. Battery still read around 10V but did not enough current (amps) to fire up. Soon as I fired it up the voltage jumped up to ~13 so I knew it was definately not the alternator. Made sure battery was getting charged from the alternator when it was running and did some tests to make sure. Battery would only hold a starting power for ~2-4hrs before getting very weak again. I think I stretched it out to 12 hrs but had to hold the crank and believe it or not, pump the gas to get it to turn over. Replaced with a Optima Rad Top and problem solved.
Maybe this was your scenario......started up and ran off battery since your alternator was disconnected/faulty connection, resulting in you draining all potential starting power from your battery. Maybe a good charge is all you need. Just jump it, make sure the alternator is charging, ride around for awhile. If it is dead again, go and replace.
Same happend with my truck and jumped it from the TA. Battery still read around 10V but did not enough current (amps) to fire up. Soon as I fired it up the voltage jumped up to ~13 so I knew it was definately not the alternator. Made sure battery was getting charged from the alternator when it was running and did some tests to make sure. Battery would only hold a starting power for ~2-4hrs before getting very weak again. I think I stretched it out to 12 hrs but had to hold the crank and believe it or not, pump the gas to get it to turn over. Replaced with a Optima Rad Top and problem solved.
Maybe this was your scenario......started up and ran off battery since your alternator was disconnected/faulty connection, resulting in you draining all potential starting power from your battery. Maybe a good charge is all you need. Just jump it, make sure the alternator is charging, ride around for awhile. If it is dead again, go and replace.
Originally Posted by LSONE
how can i tell if my alternator is chargine for sure?
Voltmeter. Voltage should read between 11-12 when the car is off (battery voltage) and should jump to 13-14 when you start it and it is running (alternator output). You can measure at the battery posts or at the cigarette lighter. I have a conveniant digital one (from Jegs) for the cigarette lighter just for convenience so I don't have to bumble around with my meter.
