All the Bolt Ons Vs. Rearend
Decide on what you do most often. If you love going to the track, then get the rear end. If you play on the street and dont really care for the track then get the other stuff. Need to decide where you want to take the car before you make big purchases like these.
Originally Posted by Ru2n00n3er
So with the 9" there wouldn't be any downtime? You would buy new reluctor rings and when you get the new rear would just pull the backing plates off the old rear and swap to the new? So there wouldn't be any downtime? Are you planning on buying that rear from Billingsley or just have them install it? I thouht they made their own 9" rears but didn't carry Fords?
Are the Moser 9" just a Ford one with a new name? I've been told that if you have a 33 spline axle and break it, then Moser upgrades you to a 35 spline and better diff, is that true? What are the benefits of a 9" over a 12-bolt? 9" are heavier, which will eat more power, but they're also stronger. I've been told that gears are easier to change on a 9", is that true?
Are the Moser 9" just a Ford one with a new name? I've been told that if you have a 33 spline axle and break it, then Moser upgrades you to a 35 spline and better diff, is that true? What are the benefits of a 9" over a 12-bolt? 9" are heavier, which will eat more power, but they're also stronger. I've been told that gears are easier to change on a 9", is that true?
Well, most 9 bolts are shipped in pieces, so you would have to have a reputable shop assemble it (or do it yourself if you so desire). As far as the reluctor rings, yes, no downtime for this because you have to get them new. I am going to buy the rear from Billingsley AND have them install it. They offer Street 9 inches with Moser housings and Strange center sections. Check out their website ------->
I have no idea about Moser upgrading the rear. For advantages, you are correct. And gear changes are easier for a 9 inch because you can just remove the center section instead of the whole rearend. The thing that pushed me to a 9 inch though is that I can get a soft locker for it, which has the strength of a regular locker (a lot more than a posi) with much less drivability issues.
I just don't know whether I am going to get the rearend or the engine stuff.
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Get the go fast stuff. I had the same problem two months ago. Had to decide between cam/intake or getting a stronger rear end.
Strong rear or intake/cam...
I chose the intake/cam and have had sooooo much fun since then. What's more fun, hooking up hard or spinning them through third showing off? Be real man. I wouldn't do it over if I could...I love my setup now. I could care less about hooking up b/c I will pull most cars after a crappy launch anyways.
Strong rear or intake/cam...
I chose the intake/cam and have had sooooo much fun since then. What's more fun, hooking up hard or spinning them through third showing off? Be real man. I wouldn't do it over if I could...I love my setup now. I could care less about hooking up b/c I will pull most cars after a crappy launch anyways.
As long as you baby the car and don't run DRs you should be fine. With my car it saw several track passes and was ragged on on the streets. Sold it with 87K on the clock with a perfectly functional stock rear end down to the gears. Most people break the rears when they combine gears and drag radials. Ful bolt ons you should have nothing to worry about. Unless you are one of those freak accident kind of guys that everyone hears about. Good thing about swapping now is that you can keep your stocker while it is still functional and not beat up. You can put it back in the car if you ever have problems or decide to sell the car.
Yeah, I would like to keep the stock rear as a backup. If I ended up breaking it and had to buy a new rearend, I would probably fix the 10 bolt just in case I ever sell the car (I don't plan on it).
I just went through and looked at the results, and I think I'll probably wait on the rearend. Maybe I could do the rearend like next Christmas break or something.
Now my big decision is which longtubes to get. I really like the HVC QTP's, but they are so freakin expensive. As far as Kooks vs. QTP, it probably depends on which type of header I want. I don't know if I want 1 3/4, 1 7/8, HVC, emissions (in case I want to add cats in the future), etc. Such a tough decision.
Now my big decision is which longtubes to get. I really like the HVC QTP's, but they are so freakin expensive. As far as Kooks vs. QTP, it probably depends on which type of header I want. I don't know if I want 1 3/4, 1 7/8, HVC, emissions (in case I want to add cats in the future), etc. Such a tough decision.
I've been told that a posi(at least the Auburn one) has a tendency to burn out the clutches in if you do donuts or things like that? I was basically told that they're worthless and to only get a locker. I think I've changed my mind to a 9" since it would mean less downtime but what is the next streetable thing past the auburn? The soft-locker correct? Is that noticeable on the street , I've got a manual, and how much different will it be driving? Also, how much stronger is it over say the heavy duty eaton posi you can get with a 12-bolt? What exactly does the soft locker do? It locks the differential when you're driving straight but then unlocks it when you turn?
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I'm in the minority I guess. I personally think (for the track) that a 12 bolt/9" and a good DS is one of the best mods to do. With sticky tires, a 12 bolt to an M6 is like a high stall TC is to an A4. I know stock T/A that goes 12.2's with slicks and a 12 bolt/DS. If you don't go to the track, then bolt on's may be for you. Also, breaking 10 bolt's is no freak accident, it happens all the time, I don't know how many 10 bolt's ive seen snap axles, or pop a spicer gear in the posi over the last 4 years, but it's been quite a few. I'd put a 12 bolt/4.11/DS/slicked car up against a BOLT ON CAR (not heads/cam) at the track any day. Different story on the highway though, but what do you want it for?
My car is a daily driver that spends 75% of the time on the highway (230 miles each direction from college to home, and not that much city driving). If I got the 9 inch, I would probably go to the track a couple times this summer, but if I don't get one, then I'll just not go, no big deal for now. I would LOVE to have 4.11 gears and be able to beat on it without worry, but at this point, I think adding power would be better. Maybe I'm wrong. I'll end up with all of it, it is just a matter of what to get first.
I think I'm going to do the bolt ons (headers, duals, TB, etc.), HPTuners w/ wideband, SFC, and maybe a rearend girdle to hold the rear for awhile. I might even get LCA's and relocation brackets or a TA to reduce wheelhop to make the stock rear last. With street tires and no hard launches, surely it won't break. 
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Originally Posted by matts22
I think I'm going to do the bolt ons (headers, duals, TB, etc.), HPTuners w/ wideband, SFC, and maybe a rearend girdle to hold the rear for awhile. I might even get LCA's and relocation brackets or a TA to reduce wheelhop to make the stock rear last. With street tires and no hard launches, surely it won't break.
Skip the rearend girdle too, I never thought it made sense to buy one since everybody ends up upgrading rearend's anyway. Keep us updated on your shopping.
Well, the 4.11's won't matter much since I have a M6 (only 200 rpm in 6th if I remember). They would be awesome on the street though. I only make the trip a couple times a semester, but still.
The rearend girdle...we'll see. Maybe I can find one cheap used and then resell it after I get the new rearend.
I'll keep everyone updated for sure.
Any ideas about headers (from an earlier post of mine in this thread)?
The rearend girdle...we'll see. Maybe I can find one cheap used and then resell it after I get the new rearend.
I'll keep everyone updated for sure.
Any ideas about headers (from an earlier post of mine in this thread)?
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I'm running Hooker LT's coated and have been for a year now with no problems. For the price I'd get them.
But I'm sure someone else will chime in and say that their Hooker's lasted for two months and flaked off. It's a crapshoot.
It seems like everyone is running Pacesetter's now. Their quality has really improved.
Bro, you're in college just like me...Kooks' and QTP's are not for us. Spending that much money on headers is absurd.
But I'm sure someone else will chime in and say that their Hooker's lasted for two months and flaked off. It's a crapshoot.
It seems like everyone is running Pacesetter's now. Their quality has really improved.
Bro, you're in college just like me...Kooks' and QTP's are not for us. Spending that much money on headers is absurd.
Well, IMO, stainless steel headers is money well spent. After all, I'm going to get a dual setup from Lane for the price of some y-pipes, let alone y-pipe and catback. So I have extra money to get good headers.
I definately want Kooks or QTP, I just don't know whether 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 is better, and I'm undecided on the HVC. Even the regular 1 3/4 have been shown to make good power over other headers.
For the last QTP GP, they were $665, while coated Hookers are $630 through Thunder. I'll stick with the stainless myself. Thanks for the advice though.
Which do I go with out of these though?
I definately want Kooks or QTP, I just don't know whether 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 is better, and I'm undecided on the HVC. Even the regular 1 3/4 have been shown to make good power over other headers.
For the last QTP GP, they were $665, while coated Hookers are $630 through Thunder. I'll stick with the stainless myself. Thanks for the advice though.
Which do I go with out of these though?