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Stock exhaust removel

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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 03:13 PM
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Default Stock exhaust removel

Is their anyway to take off the stock exhaust without cutting it? I am changing my exhaust to a Magnaflow and my stock exhaust is less than a year old. I figured if I can take it off in one piece I can sell it.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 03:18 PM
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A breaker bar is your friend-w/ tons of lubricant or rust/corrosion cleaner-remover (i.e. WD-40)
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
A breaker bar is your friend-w/ tons of lubricant or rust/corrosion cleaner-remover (i.e. WD-40)
Getting the nuts and bolts off is not the problem. They loosen up easy enough. What I want to know is can can you pull the exhaust system out without dropping the rear axle?
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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i dont see any problems then, just jack up the car, take your time, have some1 help

it should come right out w/o you needing to cut anything
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Shutout
Getting the nuts and bolts off is not the problem. They loosen up easy enough. What I want to know is can can you pull the exhaust system out without dropping the rear axle?
I'm pretty sure I had to cut mine when I did it...can't quite remember since it's been a while. You could drop the rear but that's a lot of work just to keep from cutting it. Also, you should only need 1 cut in the I-pipe near the axle.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 04:12 PM
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This is the way I remove stock LS1 F-body exhausts without cutting: The whole procedure can be done in about 30 minutes with air tools.

Use ramps to raise front of car. (Raising the front of the car is optional. It just gives you more room to work where the intermediate pipe connects to the Y-pipe) Jack up rear of car and support with jackstands on subframe ahead of rear axle. Remove RR wheel. Place floor jack under rear end center section and raise rear end but let car rest on jackstands. Remove bolt from panhard bar on pass side of axle and swing panhard bar down. Remove brace above panhard bar completely. (one bolt on pass side and 3 bolts on drivers side) You will need to remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the heat shield to the bar, (7mm socket) Remove bolts (2) where sway bar bracket bolts to pass side frame. No need to remove these on the drivers side. Remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar to the axle with the u bolts. The rear end will not drop down far enough with out the sway bar loosened. Remove nut from pass side lower shock mount and pull shock out of lower mounting hole. Lower floor jack so pass side of axle hangs down. Remove nut from clamp where intermediate pipe attaches to y-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side tail pipe hanger. Remove the nut on the pass side tail pipe hanger. Have one person grab one tail pipe while you grab the other and with a twisting motion while pulling back on the cat back, separate it from the y-pipe. Swing the catback towards the pass side and rotate it 180 degrees while snakeing the intermediate pipe through the pass side wheel well. Reassemble in reverse order.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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I just had mine cut when I took the stock off.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 06:55 PM
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Thanks for the information guy's. Is their a market for stock exhausts to warrant taking it off in one piece or should I just cut it off?
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Shutout
Thanks for the information guy's. Is their a market for stock exhausts to warrant taking it off in one piece or should I just cut it off?
No...it's basically trash unless you ever put it back on in the future...cut it up!
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Red99TA
No...it's basically trash unless you ever put it back on in the future...cut it up!
I was thinking the same thing.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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One cut, and its done. If it was to be reused later, use a band clamp, then get it welded, no big deal.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
This is the way I remove stock LS1 F-body exhausts without cutting: The whole procedure can be done in about 30 minutes with air tools.

Use ramps to raise front of car. (Raising the front of the car is optional. It just gives you more room to work where the intermediate pipe connects to the Y-pipe) Jack up rear of car and support with jackstands on subframe ahead of rear axle. Remove RR wheel. Place floor jack under rear end center section and raise rear end but let car rest on jackstands. Remove bolt from panhard bar on pass side of axle and swing panhard bar down. Remove brace above panhard bar completely. (one bolt on pass side and 3 bolts on drivers side) You will need to remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the heat shield to the bar, (7mm socket) Remove bolts (2) where sway bar bracket bolts to pass side frame. No need to remove these on the drivers side. Remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar to the axle with the u bolts. The rear end will not drop down far enough with out the sway bar loosened. Remove nut from pass side lower shock mount and pull shock out of lower mounting hole. Lower floor jack so pass side of axle hangs down. Remove nut from clamp where intermediate pipe attaches to y-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side tail pipe hanger. Remove the nut on the pass side tail pipe hanger. Have one person grab one tail pipe while you grab the other and with a twisting motion while pulling back on the cat back, separate it from the y-pipe. Swing the catback towards the pass side and rotate it 180 degrees while snakeing the intermediate pipe through the pass side wheel well. Reassemble in reverse order.
Thats what I did, it was easy.
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