Prothane motor mount is in!
08-19-2005, 08:59 PM
#42
i got one of here and just wanted to make sure this is the correct one to put on driver side. and i also have no instructions but i can figure it out i guess. just making sure this is correct and i dont need anything else but tools to install
the metal inside the poly is off centered does that make a difference.
i see ima need some bolts what are the specs on the bolt length and thickness
the metal inside the poly is off centered does that make a difference.
i see ima need some bolts what are the specs on the bolt length and thickness
Last edited by SVC707; 08-19-2005 at 09:13 PM.
09-15-2005, 09:15 AM
#49
Originally Posted by 8KickassRS9
something tells me u could actually get a minute bit more power to the wheels with solid mounts like that. my reasoning is that engine torque is being sucked up rocking the engine so when thats stopped, more of it is put through the driveline instead of bein sucked up by the mounts. maybe im wrong but hey, no harm in guessing.
11-21-2005, 04:08 PM
#53
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holy thread resurection!!
guys how do you know when you have a bad motor mount can you fell it at idle only or moving as well i think mine might be bad! and should you chang your k member while doing the motor mounts ??? or when you decide to change the k member then do motor mount??
guys how do you know when you have a bad motor mount can you fell it at idle only or moving as well i think mine might be bad! and should you chang your k member while doing the motor mounts ??? or when you decide to change the k member then do motor mount??
11-21-2005, 04:22 PM
#54
Why change the K-member? If all you have is a bad motor mount, just change it. Changing the K-member is 3 times as much work so it doesn't make sense. Fix what is broken.
You should be able to tell just by raising the hood and revving the engine. Look how far the motor torques over when you hit the gas. A little is normal, but a lot can be bad.
Or you can jack up the car on jackstands and lift the motor on the drivers side and then the passengers side (carefully) and then look if the rubber is torn.
You should be able to tell just by raising the hood and revving the engine. Look how far the motor torques over when you hit the gas. A little is normal, but a lot can be bad.
Or you can jack up the car on jackstands and lift the motor on the drivers side and then the passengers side (carefully) and then look if the rubber is torn.
11-21-2005, 06:06 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Why change the K-member? If all you have is a bad motor mount, just change it. Changing the K-member is 3 times as much work so it doesn't make sense. Fix what is broke.
11-21-2005, 06:46 PM
#56
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I just got a new set of solid motor mounts from sphoon. And I think I'm going to take the headers out to do it. I've seen alot of people have a hell of a time trying to get them in with the headers in place.
I am already going to take the 9" out for a good cleaning. And the gas tank for a new racetronics fuel pump.
So why not take my time and remove the headers also to make the mounts easier.
I am already going to take the 9" out for a good cleaning. And the gas tank for a new racetronics fuel pump.
So why not take my time and remove the headers also to make the mounts easier.
11-21-2005, 10:45 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by JRracing
I just got a new set of solid motor mounts from sphoon. And I think I'm going to take the headers out to do it. I've seen alot of people have a hell of a time trying to get them in with the headers in place.
I am already going to take the 9" out for a good cleaning. And the gas tank for a new racetronics fuel pump.
So why not take my time and remove the headers also to make the mounts easier.
I am already going to take the 9" out for a good cleaning. And the gas tank for a new racetronics fuel pump.
So why not take my time and remove the headers also to make the mounts easier.
.Dan
11-22-2005, 08:23 AM
#59
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
You'll be glad you pulled the headers out to do the mounts, much easier. You will need to pull the alt. too. Don't do like I did though. Started out doing a motor mount, then pulled the headers to do it. Thought I might as well slap the FAST intake on so I pulled the intake, then decided to pull the heads to change the head gaskets to fix my quench, lol. Half the motor tore down and all I intended doing was the mount .
Dan
.Dan
LMAO - I was intenting to change my lifters and ended up pulling the motor for a top end rebuild... Had I known, I would have waited to do my motor mounts now.
11-22-2005, 10:13 AM
#60
Originally Posted by WhiteRhino
Most people that change the K-member are changing it for the weight savings.Not to get new mounts.
So if you plan to do both, do them together. It will save a lot of time. If you only need to change the mount, don't mess with the K-member.