Best Underdrive Pulley???

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Apr 20, 2005 | 07:30 AM

#21

Blacker

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From: Austin, Texas

The first version of the SLP Pulley did and the Whisper Pulley was rumored to do this too.

Apr 20, 2005 | 12:02 PM

#22

240M3SRT

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From: Ft. Worth, TX

Is it recommended/necessary to use a new crank pulley bolt if so why?

And does anyone have the GM pn#?

What about the Gatorback belt partnumbers for the ASP pulleys?

I figured this would help anyone who ever searched this.

Apr 20, 2005 | 12:53 PM

#23

superchannelkev

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march with gatorbacks and no problems. oh check ls1howto.com for the crank bolt part #

Apr 20, 2005 | 01:07 PM

#24

240M3SRT

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From: Ft. Worth, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by superchannelkev

march with gatorbacks and no problems. oh check ls1howto.com for the crank bolt part #

Crank pulley instructions/bolt pn# were not listed.

Apr 20, 2005 | 01:48 PM

#25

ArcticZ28

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From: Alexandria, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240M3SRT

It's a good idea to use a new one because the GM bolts get stretched after using them, meaning they are basically "meant" for a one time use. You could probably get by without using a new one, but each time you do the torque sequence on the crank bolt (240 ft/lbs) you stretch the bolt, causing it to lose some of its holding power. Play it safe and just pick up a new one, they're cheap and there is no sense risking it. I don't have the PN on hand though, sorry.

Apr 20, 2005 | 02:26 PM

#26

Matt D

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all of our sponsors are out of the asp's, and will not have them for awhile. i am thinking about just going with the slp, arp bolt, and gm pulley. what do you guys think?

Apr 20, 2005 | 02:29 PM

#27

ArcticZ28

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From: Alexandria, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdblackz28

all of our sponsors are out of the asp's, and will not have them for awhile. i am thinking about just going with the slp, arp bolt, and gm pulley. what do you guys think?

Just get a March Pulley. Only go with SLP if your only options left involve brands like Panasonic and Toshiba.

Apr 20, 2005 | 02:35 PM

#28

240M3SRT

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From: Ft. Worth, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdblackz28

all of our sponsors are out of the asp's, and will not have them for awhile. i am thinking about just going with the slp, arp bolt, and gm pulley. what do you guys think?

GM pulley?

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Apr 20, 2005 | 03:07 PM

#29

Matt D

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From: Southside

i mean gm belt, sorry.

Apr 20, 2005 | 03:27 PM

#30

z28ss4me

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From: Fredericksburg, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deamon2002

Is it OK to put locktite on the bolt to keep it from backing off? Anyone? I'm about to put my pulley in and may put some on it, if it doesn't harm anything.

Actually my direction with the ASP said to use loctite. They also recommend using a new crank bolt. In fact everytime you pull the pulley they say you should swap the bolt with new and apply loctite.

Apr 20, 2005 | 03:51 PM

#31

blkZ28spt

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From: The South

Every time you pull the crank bolt it should be replaced with a new one with blue loctite applied. And the new one needs to be stretched into place as well.

Apr 20, 2005 | 04:01 PM

#32

cyphur

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From: North Texas

buy an ARP crank bolt once and be done with it. no need to keep swapping them out.

Apr 20, 2005 | 04:37 PM

#33

~JOSHUA

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From: Atlanta

I loved my ASP pulley untill I found out that it's falling apart!!!!

I was changing my cam this weekend and noticed that the welds are failing. I only have 1,000 miles on mine. I've posted a thread a thread on this forum about it. I need to call Texas Speed tomorrow when I have time.

Apr 20, 2005 | 10:02 PM

#34

SLEEK00SS

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From: Rochester, NY

I just bought the SLP. Looks awesome!!! It does have nice high walls and seems built extremely well.

Apr 20, 2005 | 10:32 PM

#35

240M3SRT

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From: Ft. Worth, TX

I just bought a used non-SFI approved ASP pulley from cyphur_traq and bought some Gatorback belts from autozone($40 for a/c and access.+tax). Im hoping to get this on this weekend. How long did it honestly take most of you that did your own and does anything need to be removed other than the pulley and belts? What is the recommended tool? Rent a puller from autozone maybe?

Also if anyone has an UD pulley lying around can you measure the diamater for me please? The stock one appears to be 7.5 inches and my UD is 5.75, this calculates to 23.333% underdrive, i thought it was supposed to be 25%...maybe they just round it up, or maybe i didnt measure the stock one very well.

Apr 20, 2005 | 10:52 PM

#36

ArcticZ28

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 240M3SRT

...How long did it honestly take most of you that did your own ....

Depending.... it could come off easily or it could take a couple minutes of a big *** Rosebud from a torch to heat it up so much that it budges a little till it comes off (like mine required). Just make SURE you don't heat up the crank... that's bad news.

Apr 24, 2005 | 08:30 AM

#37

Lights_Out

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I have the March UD

Apr 24, 2005 | 01:39 PM

#38

240M3SRT

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From: Ft. Worth, TX

Ok fellas, did my UD pulley this weekend. I used a lift and had a partner, and i would absolutely recommend using a buddy it will make things go by twice as fast, probably 3 times as fast if your doing this in your garage. It took me roughly 3 hours and went pretty smoothly. For the records, Goodyear Gatorback part #'s 4040377 & 4060755. $13.99 & $22.99

Apr 24, 2005 | 02:15 PM

#39

Chris81

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I have the ASP crank pulley with a new bolt and GM belts, no problems at all.

Apr 24, 2005 | 02:17 PM

#40

Grimes

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From: Northern NJ

humm, interesting, that gatorback you list has a length of 75.5 inches, as opposed to the 76.0 inches that most people run. mabye the 1/2 inch is just enough to keep them on better. I'll try the duralast one i have here first; if it dosent' work....gatorback it is! I wish my damn pulley would come in the mail too!

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