i have a ARP bolt in the car right now?
i have a ARP bolt in the car right now? i am about to swap cams this weekend and wanted to know the procedure for the crank bolt with a used ARP crank bolt.... i have 2 unused GM bolts... I have a pulley installer and a 3 screw pulley puller....
after pulling the pulley and stuffing the cam do i use the ARP to seat the pulley after i use the installer and crank the ARP bolt to 240lbs then 140* or do i just seat it with the installer and put 37lbs on the ARP and leave it
do i need locktite on the crank?
Tyler
after pulling the pulley and stuffing the cam do i use the ARP to seat the pulley after i use the installer and crank the ARP bolt to 240lbs then 140* or do i just seat it with the installer and put 37lbs on the ARP and leave it
do i need locktite on the crank?
Tyler
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
crank the ARP bolt to 240lbs then 140* or do i just seat it with the installer and put 37lbs on the ARP and leave it
use ARPs specs.. NOT GMs.
you dont need locktite. if you did use locktite, use blue so its removeable in the future.
at some point it does need to come back off (timing chain, front main seal, ect)
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: Decatur, IL
So what exactly are the ARP specs?? I'm installing my pulley tomorrow so I've searched around on this for over the last day and everybody says something different. Some say 150, some say 240. I don't recall anything in the ARP package that says what to torque it to.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: Decatur, IL
OK, for those searching on this topic, I just got off the phone with ARP and here are the specs:
When using Locktite (any type): torque to 196 ft-lbs
When using 30W: torque to 247 ft-lbs
Remember to seat the pulley with the old bolt and then install the ARP bolt. When using locktite, remember to clean both threads (bolt and crank) with carb cleaner to ensure the locktite sticks.
When using Locktite (any type): torque to 196 ft-lbs
When using 30W: torque to 247 ft-lbs
Remember to seat the pulley with the old bolt and then install the ARP bolt. When using locktite, remember to clean both threads (bolt and crank) with carb cleaner to ensure the locktite sticks.
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11 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 10
From: long island, ny
hey how i did it and seemed to work fine
i did not have a stock bolt to seat the pully so i used the arp(use can use it to seat it) just make sure to use the arp lube on the washer when you do it will be much easier then take the bolt out and put some more lube on the washer and i put red locktite(never had a problem removeing anything useing this stuff and it is a big bolt and i like to be safe) and since i did not have a tq wrench to go that high i just put that **** on as tight as posible with a breaker bar. the arp bolt does not stretch so no worries as long as it does not come out
i dont plan on changing my cam anytime soon since i like the one i got
and if i really cant get the olt off by hand later i can just do a quick starter bump it sould come right off
i did not have a stock bolt to seat the pully so i used the arp(use can use it to seat it) just make sure to use the arp lube on the washer when you do it will be much easier then take the bolt out and put some more lube on the washer and i put red locktite(never had a problem removeing anything useing this stuff and it is a big bolt and i like to be safe) and since i did not have a tq wrench to go that high i just put that **** on as tight as posible with a breaker bar. the arp bolt does not stretch so no worries as long as it does not come out
i dont plan on changing my cam anytime soon since i like the one i got
and if i really cant get the olt off by hand later i can just do a quick starter bump it sould come right off Has any one used the longer bolt in the initial seating of the pulley? I have heard it helps to distribute the load more evenly on the threads for the first two turns or so. Seems that some say using the old bolt to initially seat the pulley runs the chance of stripping out the threads due to such a small bite the bolt gets on the threads in the beginning. That ARP bolt seems the only way to go, $25 or so for one bolt is alot, but improper bolt installation could be much more costly.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 32
Likes: 1
From: Central New York
well that's interesting , because I talked with ARP last week and they told me to torque it to 190 #-ft with molly lube ...and maybe a little less if my crank threads are used. Does ARP know know WTF they are doing? It seems to me that every call to ARP results in a different answer!!
heres what i did.... put the pulley in the oven on about 200 degrees for an hour and 1/2.... put it on....(went most of the way on) got my breaker bar and put it on there as tight as i could..... and its still on there...
mmmmmmmmmmm nothin like meatloaf with asp pulley. 
Josh- Thats what i hear is the way to go, they say it minimizes the risk of damaging the crank threads, especially under conditions where a cam might be removed and installed several times. That is how I will do mine.
I think I may buy a cheap oven for heating parts and stuff, and other automotive baking projects.
Josh- Thats what i hear is the way to go, they say it minimizes the risk of damaging the crank threads, especially under conditions where a cam might be removed and installed several times. That is how I will do mine.
I think I may buy a cheap oven for heating parts and stuff, and other automotive baking projects.
