problems after electric cutouts installed. coincidence or no?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
problems after electric cutouts installed. coincidence or no? well my y-pipe is the dual electric cutout y-pipe and the guy that installed them hooked the wires for the switch to a fuse. im not exactly sure which one, but after the install my blinker/running light bulb on the passenger side burnt out. no big deal, i thought it was coincidence. went and bought new bulbs and changed it and when i took it out, its burnt out sure enough.
so anyways, 3 days later i open up the cutouts and romp on it
on the interstate then go to change lanes and turn on my right blinker and it was sticking again (meaning the blinker light on the inside of the car wouldn't blink, it would just constantly stay on) so i knew the bulb had burnt out again. 
no way that bulb could burn out in 3 days huh? is it coincidence that it happened after i opened up the cutout and got on the gas or can a fuse (maybe the one that the switch is hooked up to) make a bulb burn out??
anyone else have this problem? i didn't have this problem until after the install. any ideas?
so anyways, 3 days later i open up the cutouts and romp on it
on the interstate then go to change lanes and turn on my right blinker and it was sticking again (meaning the blinker light on the inside of the car wouldn't blink, it would just constantly stay on) so i knew the bulb had burnt out again. no way that bulb could burn out in 3 days huh? is it coincidence that it happened after i opened up the cutout and got on the gas or can a fuse (maybe the one that the switch is hooked up to) make a bulb burn out??
anyone else have this problem? i didn't have this problem until after the install. any ideas?
Originally Posted by SS GIRL
well my y-pipe is the dual electric cutout y-pipe and the guy that installed them hooked the wires for the switch to a fuse. im not exactly sure which one, but after the install my blinker/running light bulb on the passenger side burnt out. no big deal, i thought it was coincidence. went and bought new bulbs and changed it and when i took it out, its burnt out sure enough.
so anyways, 3 days later i open up the cutouts and romp on it on the interstate then go to change lanes and turn on my right blinker and it was sticking again (meaning the blinker light on the inside of the car wouldn't blink, it would just constantly stay on) so i knew the bulb had burnt out again.
no way that bulb could burn out in 3 days huh? is it coincidence that it happened after i opened up the cutout and got on the gas or can a fuse (maybe the one that the switch is hooked up to) make a bulb burn out??
anyone else have this problem? i didn't have this problem until after the install. any ideas?
so anyways, 3 days later i open up the cutouts and romp on it
on the interstate then go to change lanes and turn on my right blinker and it was sticking again (meaning the blinker light on the inside of the car wouldn't blink, it would just constantly stay on) so i knew the bulb had burnt out again. no way that bulb could burn out in 3 days huh? is it coincidence that it happened after i opened up the cutout and got on the gas or can a fuse (maybe the one that the switch is hooked up to) make a bulb burn out??
anyone else have this problem? i didn't have this problem until after the install. any ideas?
Brandon
Bulbs burning out is a symptom of too high a
system voltage. Why just the one, I have no
idea. Though a really messed up wiring job
might jack the grounds and leave (say) IGN-
chassis different than IGN-block (which is
what the alternator regulates to). But the
cutout also should draw no power except
when you are moving it open or closed.
"Should".
I'd have a look at the workmanship, decide
whether you think it looks clean and see what
circuit he hung it off. I would also find a DMM or
voltmeter and see what the running voltage is
across the battery, from B+ to block and from
B+ to chassis sheet metal (I believe this is
where the blinker lights return current).
And check directly the voltage from the engine
block to the chassis sheet metal. Right answer
is zero, anything else can bring on some weird
stuff.
If you don't have a meter, you really should.
Spend the $19.99 (or less) and tool up.
system voltage. Why just the one, I have no
idea. Though a really messed up wiring job
might jack the grounds and leave (say) IGN-
chassis different than IGN-block (which is
what the alternator regulates to). But the
cutout also should draw no power except
when you are moving it open or closed.
"Should".
I'd have a look at the workmanship, decide
whether you think it looks clean and see what
circuit he hung it off. I would also find a DMM or
voltmeter and see what the running voltage is
across the battery, from B+ to block and from
B+ to chassis sheet metal (I believe this is
where the blinker lights return current).
And check directly the voltage from the engine
block to the chassis sheet metal. Right answer
is zero, anything else can bring on some weird
stuff.
If you don't have a meter, you really should.
Spend the $19.99 (or less) and tool up.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
i just checked the fuse to where the cutouts wire switch was hooked up to and its hooked up to the radio 15 amp fuse. someone PMed me and said to hook it up to the cig lighter fuse so we are going to try that.
any other wiring issues that could keep causing my blinker bulb to burn out after a header and electric y-pipe install if this doesn't work?
any other wiring issues that could keep causing my blinker bulb to burn out after a header and electric y-pipe install if this doesn't work?
could be something simple like having a crack in the lens and getting moisture in on to the bulb and burning it out. usually though i see it blow the bulb. just a thought. probably not but its a thought
