harmonic balancer bolt.
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Then be prepared to keep losing bolts. With a long enough cheater bar, the bolt can be turned 140* easily. I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 3' piece of pipe. I actually have to be careful not to go past 140*. I use the Kent Moore F/W locking tool also. On over 25 cam installs, I've never had a crank bolt come loose.
we've done ALOT of pulleys with NEW bolts and none of them have come out
I believe the 37 ft.lb. then 140* turn is about equal to torquing it to 240 ft.lbs, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I've been doing it that way for 5 years now with no issues and I always used a new bolt. I always first torque it with the old bolt, then put the new one in and Torque it.
Dan
Dan
Originally Posted by ss rally red
I dont know how much the ARP bolt is but make sure you have a 12 point socket when you install it........
by the way my cost on the GM bolt is 2.76.
by the way my cost on the GM bolt is 2.76.
Originally Posted by 777
also not the same size socket either...it's a couple mm bigger
Originally Posted by Red99TA
The bolt is designed to stretch when you put that final 120 degree turn on it when tightening down. As a result once it's removed you need a new one. They're called torque to yield bolts b/c you're taking the bolt to it's yield point and it has permanent plastic deformation after that (it's stretched).
