harmonic balancer bolt.
06-07-2005, 10:22 AM
#21
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Then be prepared to keep losing bolts. With a long enough cheater bar, the bolt can be turned 140* easily. I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 3' piece of pipe. I actually have to be careful not to go past 140*. I use the Kent Moore F/W locking tool also. On over 25 cam installs, I've never had a crank bolt come loose.
we've done ALOT of pulleys with NEW bolts and none of them have come out
06-07-2005, 12:50 PM
#22
10 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cali/Bay Area
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe the 37 ft.lb. then 140* turn is about equal to torquing it to 240 ft.lbs, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I've been doing it that way for 5 years now with no issues and I always used a new bolt. I always first torque it with the old bolt, then put the new one in and Torque it.
Dan
Dan
06-07-2005, 03:08 PM
#24
Originally Posted by ss rally red
I dont know how much the ARP bolt is but make sure you have a 12 point socket when you install it........
by the way my cost on the GM bolt is 2.76.
by the way my cost on the GM bolt is 2.76.
06-09-2005, 07:46 PM
#26
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Eskridge, KS
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 777
also not the same size socket either...it's a couple mm bigger
06-10-2005, 09:58 PM
#27
Banned
iTrader: (45)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 2,556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Red99TA
The bolt is designed to stretch when you put that final 120 degree turn on it when tightening down. As a result once it's removed you need a new one. They're called torque to yield bolts b/c you're taking the bolt to it's yield point and it has permanent plastic deformation after that (it's stretched).
