? on motor mounts
Originally Posted by Krab
I think you mean that the stock mount is on the left side. 
Also, what is it with using washers? On what part do you guys use washers? I didn't use any and haven't had any problems. 
Also, what is it with using washers? On what part do you guys use washers? I didn't use any and haven't had any problems. As far as washers go...It was something my father taught me to do. Why, I do no know.
Glad I went with the prothanes now. hard enough to do the swap let alone have to grind stuff and I can't believe they send tie wraps with them to hold the clam shells together. Prothanes were cake IMO of course..
Another update and finished....
I did the passenger side. I started yesterday around 6pm and was done by 8pm with taking it out and taking the clamshell apart.
Started this evening around 4pm and put the new mount in the clamshell and started putting it back in the car. Was done by 6pm and even put my cats back on the car.
Took it for a drive and love it. NO NORE SHAKING!!! My motor would shake back and forth causing me to think I had a missfire or something. TXHORNS281 came over and did some checking with his tuner before we tuned it. He finally told me it probably is my motor mounts. Which is what started this whole process.
To tell you guys the truth, driverside is a PITA. The bolts are harder to get to than the passengerside. remind you that I have FLP LT's which probably helped.
Would I do it again??? Yes I would, and probably faster also. I don't think I would use the energy suspension ones as issues with the ones I had.
So I can now be added to the guys who have done this. "We salute you, Mr. Motor Mount Installer"...lol.
I did the passenger side. I started yesterday around 6pm and was done by 8pm with taking it out and taking the clamshell apart.
Started this evening around 4pm and put the new mount in the clamshell and started putting it back in the car. Was done by 6pm and even put my cats back on the car.
Took it for a drive and love it. NO NORE SHAKING!!! My motor would shake back and forth causing me to think I had a missfire or something. TXHORNS281 came over and did some checking with his tuner before we tuned it. He finally told me it probably is my motor mounts. Which is what started this whole process.
To tell you guys the truth, driverside is a PITA. The bolts are harder to get to than the passengerside. remind you that I have FLP LT's which probably helped.
Would I do it again??? Yes I would, and probably faster also. I don't think I would use the energy suspension ones as issues with the ones I had.
So I can now be added to the guys who have done this. "We salute you, Mr. Motor Mount Installer"...lol.
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
I was not looking forward to trying to line up everything for the big bolt. I left the bolts to the block loose, and put the big bolt in, left it loose, and the lined up the bolts to the k-member. Went very smooth.
I was at the point of throwing **** after the tab situation, and then having to take it out again to trim some of the poly away for the bolt. But driver side is done and I feel good about it. Now for the passenger side this weekend.
Wife was wanting me to get TSP to send the correct ones. I told her I didn't have time, as I had a funeral I had to go today. Car feels really good for just the driver side done.
For those who have not changed a motor mount on an f-body, here is a pic of the stock one and the energy suspension one from Texas Speed. Stock one is on left side.
notice that the stock rubber mount is alot smaller. And as far as the "bolts" to hold the clamshell together, the energy suspension mount comes with zip ties to hold this. I had to go to Sears Hardware and get actual bolts to hold it together as I was not going to do this half *** with zip ties.
I was at the point of throwing **** after the tab situation, and then having to take it out again to trim some of the poly away for the bolt. But driver side is done and I feel good about it. Now for the passenger side this weekend.
Wife was wanting me to get TSP to send the correct ones. I told her I didn't have time, as I had a funeral I had to go today. Car feels really good for just the driver side done.
For those who have not changed a motor mount on an f-body, here is a pic of the stock one and the energy suspension one from Texas Speed. Stock one is on left side.
I would like to see a scan of the instructions saying to use that to hold the clamshell together. If its true I will eat crow, but not before I email energy suspension and tell them how stupid they are.
Originally Posted by Full-Force
I think you misread what the zipties were for. That is absolute bullshit. The biggest bunch of bullshit I hav ever heard and I have heard some in my time. The engine would rip the ziptie apart just cranking the car or at the very most when you give it the slightest bit of gas.
I would like to see a scan of the instructions saying to use that to hold the clamshell together. If its true I will eat crow, but not before I email energy suspension and tell them how stupid they are.
I would like to see a scan of the instructions saying to use that to hold the clamshell together. If its true I will eat crow, but not before I email energy suspension and tell them how stupid they are.
Step - 3
Place the assembly into a vise or large clamp, leaving access to the drilled out holes. Use enough clamping force to hold the two metal shells together, without permanently deforming the metal (a slight amount of metal bending may occur, this is normal). To temporarily hold the assembly together, place the tie-wraps provided into the drilled holes, inserting them from the bottom side, leaving the locking end of the tie-wrap on the top side, as shown. Tighten the tie-wrap as tightly as possible, taking care not to break them.
Make sure the tie-wraps are holding firm while releasing the clamp or vise. The metal shells may seperate slightly, this is normal. However, excessive seperation will cause the mounting bolts to not reach through the crossmember and allow the nuts to start on the bolts. Cut the ends of the tie-wraps off, being sure not to leave any sharp edges.
Place the assembly into a vise or large clamp, leaving access to the drilled out holes. Use enough clamping force to hold the two metal shells together, without permanently deforming the metal (a slight amount of metal bending may occur, this is normal). To temporarily hold the assembly together, place the tie-wraps provided into the drilled holes, inserting them from the bottom side, leaving the locking end of the tie-wrap on the top side, as shown. Tighten the tie-wrap as tightly as possible, taking care not to break them.
Make sure the tie-wraps are holding firm while releasing the clamp or vise. The metal shells may seperate slightly, this is normal. However, excessive seperation will cause the mounting bolts to not reach through the crossmember and allow the nuts to start on the bolts. Cut the ends of the tie-wraps off, being sure not to leave any sharp edges.
Instructions for GM style "clamshell" motor mount 4 - mounting holes Set # 3-1116
I will scan the directions and post them tomorrow for you.
Guys, the zip ties only hold the two sides together before it gets bolted up to the block. I too decided to use a bolt, but its really not necessary.
Question, is it really worth doing the passenger side at all? I'm going to be swapping headers soon, and that's the time to do the mounts. I already did the driver's side the hard way (but still not bad using a lift), but would do the passenger side while I was in there if its worth it. ****, what's another $24.
Question, is it really worth doing the passenger side at all? I'm going to be swapping headers soon, and that's the time to do the mounts. I already did the driver's side the hard way (but still not bad using a lift), but would do the passenger side while I was in there if its worth it. ****, what's another $24.
Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Guys, the zip ties only hold the two sides together before it gets bolted up to the block. I too decided to use a bolt, but its really not necessary.
Question, is it really worth doing the passenger side at all? I'm going to be swapping headers soon, and that's the time to do the mounts. I already did the driver's side the hard way (but still not bad using a lift), but would do the passenger side while I was in there if its worth it. ****, what's another $24.
Question, is it really worth doing the passenger side at all? I'm going to be swapping headers soon, and that's the time to do the mounts. I already did the driver's side the hard way (but still not bad using a lift), but would do the passenger side while I was in there if its worth it. ****, what's another $24.
So you tell me...is it worth replacing the passengerside and 4 hours of your time to do it?
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