how to get rid of Y-pipe banging
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
I had the same problem and this is how i fixed it it is so simple. get a door wedge
3" rise and about 10" long and find where it is hitting under the car loosen all the clamps around it and hammer the wedge in as far as you can get it to go the tighjten all the clamps again works every time. mime hits where the extra support is welded tro the floor boards.
hope that helps
good luck
3" rise and about 10" long and find where it is hitting under the car loosen all the clamps around it and hammer the wedge in as far as you can get it to go the tighjten all the clamps again works every time. mime hits where the extra support is welded tro the floor boards.
hope that helps
good luck
Better yet, buy you a cheap propane torch kit, mark the pipe where it's banging, remove it from the car and heat the area and flatten it a little with a hammer. GM put a flat y-pipe under there for a reason, there isn't much room for pipes. Don't flatten it as extreme as they did, just where you need clearance. That rubber door wedge idea will melt in a few days of driving and stink up the neighborhood.. 
Originally Posted by 00sscam
I had the same problem and this is how i fixed it it is so simple. get a door wedge
3" rise and about 10" long and find where it is hitting under the car loosen all the clamps around it and hammer the wedge in as far as you can get it to go the tighjten all the clamps again works every time. mime hits where the extra support is welded tro the floor boards.
hope that helps
good luck
3" rise and about 10" long and find where it is hitting under the car loosen all the clamps around it and hammer the wedge in as far as you can get it to go the tighjten all the clamps again works every time. mime hits where the extra support is welded tro the floor boards.
hope that helps
good luck
I have the TSP ORY and had the same problem with banging on the driver side after installing. The mufflex hanger just about eliminated the banging to the point where I was only getting it under hard acceleration but not completely. I took the car to Speed Inc for them to look at it, took them all of 15 mins to adjust the pipe and fix the problem completely. It's a pain working on exhaust on your back in the garage and you can't really gain a good perspective like you can with the car on a lift, atlest that's the story I'm going with because I felt like an idiot.
Chances are you just need to adjust the pipe to gain more clearance between it and the underside of the car.
Chances are you just need to adjust the pipe to gain more clearance between it and the underside of the car.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by HavATampa
That rubber door wedge idea will melt in a few days of driving and stink up the neighborhood..
And as for all the absorber/cushion methods... If you can look yourself in the mirror and tell yourself that it's not redneck rigged or ghetto, go for it! As for me, the only right way to fix it is to put in stiffer engine mounts.
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
I just welded a valve spring between the pipe and the body. Voila. No more banging.
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Verdad Gallardo I had my car tuned at CAM and i asked them about the banging. he said it was banging against the cross member. so im taking it back up there sometime this week and let them cut some of the cross member off. just some off the corner. he said it would take care of it!!
btw if interested my dyno run went as follows: max power=325.1 max torque=397.6
btw if interested my dyno run went as follows: max power=325.1 max torque=397.6
