Friggin AC
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Teching In
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 37
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From: Aurora, near Cleveland, Ohio
Friggin AC Well Ive had it now...Im in the process of selling my TransAm to get a new Maxima, well at the dealership the otehr day they saw that the AC doesnt work, so they offered me **** for my car. I take it in, figuring its just a leak in the system and needs some freon and hoses. Im dead wrong
The compressor bit the dust, apparently seizing when the belt broke (according to my friendly mechanic...). So there is no AC belt, and the compressor is seized up. What do you think this is gonna cost me?
If you guess 1300 bucks, youre right on the money. 700 for a compressor, 100 for a drier/receiver, 100 for freon, 300 for labor for all this ****, a new belt and some other crap.
Well Im trying to find a compressor online or locally, it can be used for all I care, I just need it to fire up when I take it back to the dealership.
But what does everyone think? Is that a healthy prognosis? Can the compressor just "seize up" when the belt breaks? Or should I throw a belt on there to make sure it isnt truly seized?
If i do need the compressor replaced, do I really need a new dryer/receiver, or will it be ok without one?
John
PS if anyone has a compressor for cheap, I would love to buy it from you
The compressor bit the dust, apparently seizing when the belt broke (according to my friendly mechanic...). So there is no AC belt, and the compressor is seized up. What do you think this is gonna cost me?
If you guess 1300 bucks, youre right on the money. 700 for a compressor, 100 for a drier/receiver, 100 for freon, 300 for labor for all this ****, a new belt and some other crap.
Well Im trying to find a compressor online or locally, it can be used for all I care, I just need it to fire up when I take it back to the dealership.
But what does everyone think? Is that a healthy prognosis? Can the compressor just "seize up" when the belt breaks? Or should I throw a belt on there to make sure it isnt truly seized?
If i do need the compressor replaced, do I really need a new dryer/receiver, or will it be ok without one?
John
PS if anyone has a compressor for cheap, I would love to buy it from you
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From: TEXAS
The belt probably broke because the compressor seized up, but I would give it a try to see if still works. You can buy the freon from any autoparts store for about $20. the compressor swap is very easy once the car is jacked up. I think all four bolts are 15mm. The a/c compressor, Autozone's website shows a rebuilt one for $249.99, and a brand new one for just under $500. Some of the bigger Autozone's even rent out the vacuum pump and gauge assemblies to fill your a/c with freon.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 37
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From: Aurora, near Cleveland, Ohio
Wow that sounds not too bad at all. Ive got a line on a compressor for pretty cheap online too. So, does anyone have the write up for a compressor swap? Do I have to remove the radiator core and/or AC condensor?
Any details would help me decide if I can do this or not
John
Any details would help me decide if I can do this or not
John
Try posting up in the WTB section of the site... there are a lot of guys that remove their A/C systems. I'm sure someone would be more than happy to clean out some room in their garage.
Sounds about the right price for a shop to charge... a co-worker of mine just paid a little under $1000 to have the A/C system replaced in his older model Ford Explorer. Original quote was $1100 but they "cut him a deal". I couldn't see myself paying any where near that much. I've considered removing A/C anyways, if it was to ever take a crap on me... it'd be removed the very first weekend I wasn't busy
Sounds about the right price for a shop to charge... a co-worker of mine just paid a little under $1000 to have the A/C system replaced in his older model Ford Explorer. Original quote was $1100 but they "cut him a deal". I couldn't see myself paying any where near that much. I've considered removing A/C anyways, if it was to ever take a crap on me... it'd be removed the very first weekend I wasn't busy
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From: TEXAS
Originally Posted by Black98TA
Wow that sounds not too bad at all. Ive got a line on a compressor for pretty cheap online too. So, does anyone have the write up for a compressor swap? Do I have to remove the radiator core and/or AC condensor?
Any details would help me decide if I can do this or not
John
Any details would help me decide if I can do this or not
John
Nope.
Jack the car up, remove the belt (you seem to have that done already), remove the freon (you can do this responsibly by capturing it all, or you can release it into the air if no one is looking), remove the hoses from the back of the compressor, unlpug the one electrical connector, remove the four compressor bolts, pull compressor off.
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From: Just This Side of Damnation
My compressor has seized as well, according to the shop that wanted to charge me $900 to replace it.
I've checked out online parts stores and I'm looking at a rebuilt compressor for about $350 and an accumulator/dryer for about $130. I think there's a valve thingy in there that will need to be replaced as well (quite cheap) and oil for the compressor.
Then I plan to take it back to the shop for the rest of it...flush maybe, vacuum & refill.
That is, as soon as I can get that much change out of the couch and chairs.
I've checked out online parts stores and I'm looking at a rebuilt compressor for about $350 and an accumulator/dryer for about $130. I think there's a valve thingy in there that will need to be replaced as well (quite cheap) and oil for the compressor.
Then I plan to take it back to the shop for the rest of it...flush maybe, vacuum & refill.
That is, as soon as I can get that much change out of the couch and chairs.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Aurora, near Cleveland, Ohio
Originally Posted by felton316
Nope.
Jack the car up, remove the belt (you seem to have that done already), remove the freon (you can do this responsibly by capturing it all, or you can release it into the air if no one is looking), remove the hoses from the back of the compressor, unlpug the one electrical connector, remove the four compressor bolts, pull compressor off.
Jack the car up, remove the belt (you seem to have that done already), remove the freon (you can do this responsibly by capturing it all, or you can release it into the air if no one is looking), remove the hoses from the back of the compressor, unlpug the one electrical connector, remove the four compressor bolts, pull compressor off.
That is definately do-able
Just want to make sure I dont need to replace everything else as well. Im a little worried because it was making a weird noise a while ago...just worried there could be metal shavings in the friggin system somewhere.
But assuming all I need is the compressor, do I just throw some oil in it stick it in there put on a new belt and recharge it? That just seems too easy haha
John
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Just This Side of Damnation
I was told the clutch was turning but the compressor wasn't, indicating a possible break between the two from the compressor having a catastrophic failure. Beats me. I won't know if the guy knew what he was talking about until I get into things after removal.
He remarked that I should check the orifice tube (thanks) for debris as an indicator of possible catastrophic failure.
I have since noticed that practically all web pages say you should replace the accumulator/dryer after this many miles (77k) as it will not have much of a service life after that length of time and after having the system opened up for some time. Again, beats me.
If I find no debris in the orifice tube, would it be smart to simply replace the compressor, have a flush and vacuum on the system, then recharge and call it done? Or, would I really NEED to replace the accumulator/dryer ($80 at Advance Auto Parts). Wouldn't pulling a vacuum on the system for the required time remove the moisture or is it truely shot?
Any remarks would be appreciated. I hate to break into the thread but these things would assist anybody having to replace a compressor.
He remarked that I should check the orifice tube (thanks) for debris as an indicator of possible catastrophic failure.
I have since noticed that practically all web pages say you should replace the accumulator/dryer after this many miles (77k) as it will not have much of a service life after that length of time and after having the system opened up for some time. Again, beats me.
If I find no debris in the orifice tube, would it be smart to simply replace the compressor, have a flush and vacuum on the system, then recharge and call it done? Or, would I really NEED to replace the accumulator/dryer ($80 at Advance Auto Parts). Wouldn't pulling a vacuum on the system for the required time remove the moisture or is it truely shot?
Any remarks would be appreciated. I hate to break into the thread but these things would assist anybody having to replace a compressor.
i don't know how many bad A/C system there are in ths thread, but if you dont feel the compressor is seized,try turn ing the clutch with your hand and try pulling it out(to see if the shaft snapped). IMO, if the compressor swap is done in a timely manner, the dryer should be okay. now I know LT1 F_Bodies are TXV systems, but i don't know if LS1 F-Bodies are TXV or fixed orifice tube.
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From: TEXAS
If the a/c system has remained closed and not opened to the atmosphere, you could get by without having to get a new accumulator. Pulling a vacuum will remove all the moisture. I think at 29" of vacuum, water boils at 6* F, or something rediculously low like that.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Aurora, near Cleveland, Ohio
The compressor and dryer/receiver I bought from a board member should be coming today or tomorrow, so its almost time for me to take it apart. Is this orifice tube right on the compressor? How do you go about checking to make sure that tube is safe, and if it isnt, how does one replace it? Just want to have everything lined up ahead of time.