I broke this:
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
I broke this: so i had to take this piece off to get my header up there.
but puttin it back on, i broke the bolt.
there isn't enough sticking out to get pliers on it to turn it back out
whata I do now?
I don't know if it leaks or not, since i'm not done with the headers and can't start the car.
how do I fix it? is one bolt enough? bust out the RTV sealer?
help
but puttin it back on, i broke the bolt.
there isn't enough sticking out to get pliers on it to turn it back out
whata I do now?
I don't know if it leaks or not, since i'm not done with the headers and can't start the car.
how do I fix it? is one bolt enough? bust out the RTV sealer?
help
Last edited by MetallicaMatt; Jul 16, 2005 at 11:04 PM. Reason: huge pic
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From: Lumberton, TX
I know this isn't an answer, but a question...why did you take that off to install headers?
Can you take the other bolt out and slide that piece off? And then get to the broke bolt better? Not Sure?
Can you take the other bolt out and slide that piece off? And then get to the broke bolt better? Not Sure?
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From: TX
What does that carry, coolant? I have seen stuff like that hold with only the clamping force of one bolt.
How I'd do it: take a hack saw blade holder (allows you to use blade as a knife) and cut off the ear of the part or sawsall if you have acess to one. Don't cut all the way thru, leave a little, then crack it. That way you don't cut sealing surface. Use vice grips to pull off bolt. Install new part/bolt.
But it looks like bolt is cross threaded from the angle it's putting on part, so new bolt might not screw in unless threads are fixed. Not enough room to tap it. What I've done when I can't get a tap in: take a shorter bolt of same thread and cut into end of bolt about 1/2" with a hack saw blade, 90* to threads. This makes it a thread chaser. Screw it in with an open end wrench making sure it is going in straight.
Outside shot: I can see it is a shouldered bolt, but if it broke at the threads, is there enough thread sticking out to put a nut on the end? If so, lightly tighten the nut and fully tighten the good bolt and maybe it will hold.
How I'd do it: take a hack saw blade holder (allows you to use blade as a knife) and cut off the ear of the part or sawsall if you have acess to one. Don't cut all the way thru, leave a little, then crack it. That way you don't cut sealing surface. Use vice grips to pull off bolt. Install new part/bolt.
But it looks like bolt is cross threaded from the angle it's putting on part, so new bolt might not screw in unless threads are fixed. Not enough room to tap it. What I've done when I can't get a tap in: take a shorter bolt of same thread and cut into end of bolt about 1/2" with a hack saw blade, 90* to threads. This makes it a thread chaser. Screw it in with an open end wrench making sure it is going in straight.
Outside shot: I can see it is a shouldered bolt, but if it broke at the threads, is there enough thread sticking out to put a nut on the end? If so, lightly tighten the nut and fully tighten the good bolt and maybe it will hold.
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If you could take it all the way off you could try to use an easy out. You just drill a small hole into the bolt and the easy out screws into that hole but it is for lack of a better term reverse threaded so when it tightens up into the broken bolt it will screw it out.
Thats the diverter plate.It'll probably leak oil if you dont get it fixed.I dont think there's enough clamping force for 1 bolt.
Whenevever I broke a bolt,I'd try a hammer and punch/flat screwdriver to see if I could maybe start the broke end back out.You might get this to work for you.Try to tap on 1 side at an angle kinda softly to get it to start back out till you can grab it with pliers or your fingers.
Whenevever I broke a bolt,I'd try a hammer and punch/flat screwdriver to see if I could maybe start the broke end back out.You might get this to work for you.Try to tap on 1 side at an angle kinda softly to get it to start back out till you can grab it with pliers or your fingers.
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
There's no way he's fitting a drill up in there, especially well enough to drill a hole perfectly in the center of that bolt.
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Originally Posted by LoudmouthLT1
I'm more curious as to how you broke a bolt putting it back in? You must have cross threaded big time?
the bolt isn't cross threaded
i ran both bolts in to finger tight, then when i was putting the rachet on it, that one last turn musta been to much
it sheared it off on the threads
so it'll come out, which is good, but HOW
I can take the part off, and i have, but there is just a TINY piece of the bolt sticking out, not even enough to get needle nose pliers on it or vice grips or anything
so now that I cleared that up
how do I get it off?
i know a bunch of ideas were thrown out, so now that everybody knows what happened...how do I do it?
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a buddy of mine said to get a TINY dremel cutting wheel, like .05 or something crazy like that, he has one, and cut a slit down it, and try to use a tiny screw driver to unscrew it
unless you've had those bolts out yourself, they are VERY small in diameter
but please keep the ideas coming. i'd like to try and work on it tmr
does anybody happen to have a part number for those bolts? or should my advanced auto or something have them? its sorta an odd bolt, being so small 'n' all
unless you've had those bolts out yourself, they are VERY small in diameter
but please keep the ideas coming. i'd like to try and work on it tmr
does anybody happen to have a part number for those bolts? or should my advanced auto or something have them? its sorta an odd bolt, being so small 'n' all
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also another thing
i'm having clearance issures with one of my O2 sensors, i talked to a friend at Hooker, and he is taking a look at my pictures on monday. I REALLY don't want to have to send those back if the bung was welded slightly higher or something
is there a stubbier O2 sensor that I can buy? like 1/2" shorter than the stock ones? Plus I don't have a tig welder to weld a new bung onto those SS headers.
i'm having clearance issures with one of my O2 sensors, i talked to a friend at Hooker, and he is taking a look at my pictures on monday. I REALLY don't want to have to send those back if the bung was welded slightly higher or something
is there a stubbier O2 sensor that I can buy? like 1/2" shorter than the stock ones? Plus I don't have a tig welder to weld a new bung onto those SS headers.
cutting wheel
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
a buddy of mine said to get a TINY dremel cutting wheel, like .05 or something crazy like that, he has one, and cut a slit down it, and try to use a tiny screw driver to unscrew it
unless you've had those bolts out yourself, they are VERY small in diameter
but please keep the ideas coming. i'd like to try and work on it tmr
does anybody happen to have a part number for those bolts? or should my advanced auto or something have them? its sorta an odd bolt, being so small 'n' all
unless you've had those bolts out yourself, they are VERY small in diameter
but please keep the ideas coming. i'd like to try and work on it tmr
does anybody happen to have a part number for those bolts? or should my advanced auto or something have them? its sorta an odd bolt, being so small 'n' all
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Originally Posted by BOONE
This is what i would do, provided its very small or thin, be careful to stay in the center. Steady it with your other hand if you can fit it in there. I would also take a soldering gun and heat just the bolt before trying to loosen it. Also a sidebite with a small pair of vise grips may catch it better than pliers, ive done this on some pretty hopeless stuff. I would try this before the dremel but heat it first. You will need to bend the tip sideways on the solder gun to a 90.
i tried to grab it on the side with the vise grips, no luck. so you think i should heat if first, smack it with a punch and see if i can loosen it
dremel as a last resort then?
