Anti-seize on header bolts?
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
I'm doing an install of Pacesetter headers. Should I put either anti-seize or lock tight on the header bolts? Should I just put them in as is?
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Speaking of lock-tite. Some might argue that it's a good idea. For example, the LT1 has lock-tote from the factory on the header bolts. Which is why so many people have had probs snapping them off when trying to remove for an aftermarket header install!!! The LS1 does NOT use locktite on the threads.
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Looks like a good time to bust this out:
![](http://www.force10.us/pictures/warlord/Thread_Necromancer.jpg)
But to contribute as 8 years is a long time... I used Alper (eBay brand) stainless header studs rather than using the pacesetter bolts. I put a small dab of red threadlocker (the Permatex brand) on the nut. They've yet to loosen; however, I've only put maybe 500 or so miles on since the install.
![](http://www.force10.us/pictures/warlord/Thread_Necromancer.jpg)
But to contribute as 8 years is a long time... I used Alper (eBay brand) stainless header studs rather than using the pacesetter bolts. I put a small dab of red threadlocker (the Permatex brand) on the nut. They've yet to loosen; however, I've only put maybe 500 or so miles on since the install.
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Due to my experiences this past week with a stripped out M8 1.25 by the PO and his drill and tap to a M10 1.5 in the worst possible location (rearmost header bolt on passenger side bank) that is now stripped I will suggest that you just stud the thing. I may have fixed it with a step stud and thread locker but in the future I will only install heads or headers with studs.
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Yes it's unnecessary now but would be a nice thing to have in case he starts taking the car apart and putting back together like legos as some of us like to do. I wouldn't do it on a pacesetter install with stock heads but when I upgrade heads I won't think twice about doing studs as it just takes one time to have an issue and all of a sudden studs look cheap money and time wise.