Slp Maf
Slp Maf I like the looks of the SLP MAF, but I don't want it tricking the computer. It's creating issues now that I have an aftermarket tune and cam.
Has anyone been able to make the SLP MAF act as the stock MAF?
There are three wires for the stock connection, but on the SLP there are those extra 2 on the right. I was thinking of just rigging somthing up so that the only connections that are made are the original 3 wires. Has anyone tried that? Do you think it would work? I'm not sure how the SLP MAF tricks the computer.
Thanks guys!
Has anyone been able to make the SLP MAF act as the stock MAF?
There are three wires for the stock connection, but on the SLP there are those extra 2 on the right. I was thinking of just rigging somthing up so that the only connections that are made are the original 3 wires. Has anyone tried that? Do you think it would work? I'm not sure how the SLP MAF tricks the computer.
Thanks guys!
I'm gonna give you this little bit of advice...take it, leave it, don't care.
If you don't have the ability, knowledge, or software to make changes to your car's computer yourself, do NOT do this mod. It will cause headaches, and you won't gain a damn thing. The software (like HPTuners or EFI's Flashscan) is the most important part, because we can direct you from there.
If you don't have the ability, knowledge, or software to make changes to your car's computer yourself, do NOT do this mod. It will cause headaches, and you won't gain a damn thing. The software (like HPTuners or EFI's Flashscan) is the most important part, because we can direct you from there.
Oh, and the other two wires going into their MAF is for the embedded IAT sensor it has. It is meant to replace the separate unit that lives in the corner of your air lid.
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Oh, and the other two wires going into their MAF is for the embedded IAT sensor it has. It is meant to replace the separate unit that lives in the corner of your air lid.
No, the extra connection isn't an issue. That is nothing more than a wiring harness. If anything, the IAT sensor in the MAF is more accurate than the one in your lid, so that'd be a plus.
Where you need HPTuners or the like is to actually adjust the MAF table to reflect that you have a new one in there. There simply isn't enough information available to accurately tune a MAF right now. There are people taking a stab at it, and some have had limited success, but not enough for me to even think about reenabling the MAF sensor on my car.
Unless you are making a god-awful amount of HP (500+), this MAF won't make a difference, because the stocker flows just fine.
Where you need HPTuners or the like is to actually adjust the MAF table to reflect that you have a new one in there. There simply isn't enough information available to accurately tune a MAF right now. There are people taking a stab at it, and some have had limited success, but not enough for me to even think about reenabling the MAF sensor on my car.
Unless you are making a god-awful amount of HP (500+), this MAF won't make a difference, because the stocker flows just fine.
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
No, the extra connection isn't an issue. That is nothing more than a wiring harness. If anything, the IAT sensor in the MAF is more accurate than the one in your lid, so that'd be a plus.
Where you need HPTuners or the like is to actually adjust the MAF table to reflect that you have a new one in there. There simply isn't enough information available to accurately tune a MAF right now. There are people taking a stab at it, and some have had limited success, but not enough for me to even think about reenabling the MAF sensor on my car.
Unless you are making a god-awful amount of HP (500+), this MAF won't make a difference, because the stocker flows just fine.
Where you need HPTuners or the like is to actually adjust the MAF table to reflect that you have a new one in there. There simply isn't enough information available to accurately tune a MAF right now. There are people taking a stab at it, and some have had limited success, but not enough for me to even think about reenabling the MAF sensor on my car.
Unless you are making a god-awful amount of HP (500+), this MAF won't make a difference, because the stocker flows just fine.
So the main problem isn't that the SLP MAF tricks the computer? The main problem will be that I need to have it tuned to accept more air?
I guess it's not being tricked by those extra 2 wires...wierd. How does the SLP MAF trick the computer? btw thanks for all the info MeentSS02.
No, the two extra wires aren't the culprit, but there is a culprit in there. SLP takes a Delphi 85mm MAF and solders in a resistor, which does trick the computer. Because of this, no one has a good table to load in place of the stock MAF table that is actually accurate. The stock calibration table certainly won't cover what this MAF is seeing...all the table is is a look up value that tells the computer "If the MAF is seeing this Hz, it means you are getting XXX.X airflow." Different sized MAF = different airflow per Hz reading.
The problem is that the computer relies pretty heavily on the MAF reading to figure out how much air it is ingesting, but checks it against the volumetric efficiency table. These two things need to be calibrated in unison so you don't get one disagreeing with the other, which will be evident because your car won't run very smooth if they can't agree.
Make sense?
The problem is that the computer relies pretty heavily on the MAF reading to figure out how much air it is ingesting, but checks it against the volumetric efficiency table. These two things need to be calibrated in unison so you don't get one disagreeing with the other, which will be evident because your car won't run very smooth if they can't agree.
Make sense?
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I was informed by a very informative f-body tuner(Ed Wright) not to ever mess with your MAF. I listen to him, he is runnin 10's N/A & is what I would consider one of the top f-body tuners in the nation.
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Verdad Gallardo Makes sense. So nobody has a way to disable the resistor? That' do the trick then right?
If anyone has a way of turning the SLP MAF into a "stock like" component, def. let me know! I don't want to have to tune for this thing.
If anyone has a way of turning the SLP MAF into a "stock like" component, def. let me know! I don't want to have to tune for this thing.
Oh, you can get rid of the resistor, but the fact remains that that MAF and its associated (but different) mass airflow table was calibrated for a truck and its intake tract, not yours. It just becomes a pain in the *** because there is no really good way to correlate MAF Hz to grams of airflow (but GM sure does) based on your current intake, exhaust, etc., since that all has an impact on how much air your car ingests.
If I were to take the resistor out, how would I do that? Is the resistor just that small black thing that's sauldered on the inside of the top section?
Last edited by Xtnct00WS6; Aug 12, 2005 at 04:50 PM.
Not having seen an actual SLP MAF, I wouldn't know what the damn resistor looks like. You really don't want to do that though. The only reason I'm running an 85mm MAF is because I'm running in permanent, closed loop speed density mode, which takes no information from the MAF whatsoever. Therefore, I don't have to worry about its calibration.
At this time, if you can't do speed density, I'd recommend leaving your MAF stock...i.e. COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED like it came from the factory. No 85mm, no nothing.
At this time, if you can't do speed density, I'd recommend leaving your MAF stock...i.e. COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED like it came from the factory. No 85mm, no nothing.
Maybe it would help these guys to take a look in the tuning section.
How the MAF works
How to tune a MAF
As always, search is your friend - don't be afraid to use it!
How the MAF works
How to tune a MAF
As always, search is your friend - don't be afraid to use it!
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LEAVE THE MAF ALONE!! If you don't KNOW what you are doing (obviously don't since you are asking) do not mess with the maf at all. Search would tell you that this is what the average tech member will tell you.
Originally Posted by TAQuickness
Maybe it would help these guys to take a look in the tuning section.
How the MAF works
How to tune a MAF
As always, search is your friend - don't be afraid to use it!
How the MAF works
How to tune a MAF
As always, search is your friend - don't be afraid to use it!
The reason why I'm asking is because I don't have hp tuners, or ls1 edit. I want to see if there are any options to take care of this problem w/o tuning. I'm pretty sure I found the resistor and it looks like it's just sauldered in there. Even if I screw up the slp maf, what's the big deal? It's prolly better that I don't use it anyways.
And btw lilbuddy, obviosly that's the easy answer. Dont' use it. Never would have thought of that...thankx.
See, the thing is, my car is running decently with the slp maf on it now. I think it causes the biggest problems when your tuning the car with it on there. If that resistor is the only thing that needs to come out to get rid of the slight surging, then that's my answer. I'll just take that out and see if that cures the problem. If not, then I'll toss the pos.
Last edited by Xtnct00WS6; Aug 13, 2005 at 03:49 PM.
