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Crank pulley bolt - sqeeling pig!

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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 08:45 AM
  #21  
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777
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The spinginess is normal. Just tighten it. There is no need to lock the flywheel. You would still get the "springiness" then as well.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 10:25 AM
  #22  
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OK - did you see the guy with the six-foot long tork wrench installing a crank bolt? This was in a recent edition of GM High Performance which was based around the installation of a Pro-charger supercharger with twin intercoolers.

The artcle said he was using the mega-wrench to get the bolt to 240lbs..... I think the skipped the part about torking a half turn or what ever past 240lbs....
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 03:28 PM
  #23  
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I just finished doing my third H/C package in three months, all I ever used on any of them was a 1/2 inch torque wrench to tighten the crank bolt. As said before use a new bolt torqued to 37 ft/lbs and then take it another 140 degrees, can easily be done with a 1/2 inch torque wrench or an 18" breaker bar. You will get a lot of springiness. I always took it to 37 ft/lbs first and then just draw a vertical line on the head of the bolt, that way you can see how far its gone.

The 240 ft/lbs part is supposed to be done with the old bolt (or longer one/threaded rod) to seat the pulley all the way on the crank before you put the new tty bolt in.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 11:28 AM
  #24  
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OK - I got two new crank bolts today from Thunder Racing ----------->

They were cheap (??) at less than $5 bucks a pop! The shipping was $20, however!

The first time I bought these bolts from my GM dealer a few years ago they were $18 a piece!!!!! (This is the same dealer that NEVER uses fresh TTY head bolts).


OK - so I back off the old stretched out bolt. Clean the anti-freeze gunk from the crank shaft threads, replace it with a fresh bolt with some red lock-tight on the threads and tork it to 37lbs. Then twist the bolt another 140 degrees!

I think several here have said they failed at getting the full additional 140 degrees (nearly 1/2 turn) so - wish my luck!

Did you here about the guy who bought the ARP bolt and busted off in the crank because the tork spec on the ARP bolt was a mere 130 lbs? What is with that? These bolts from Thunder definatly match the 4 other factory bolts that I have lying around...

I assume ARP bolts are not galvinized like the factory bolts; right?
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 09:11 AM
  #25  
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I removed the old bolt and replaced it with a new one..... I cranked that dude down extra tight with a 24 inch braeker bar and 18 inch lead pipe....

...unfortunately, the new bolt did not fix the squeeeling...

I took both fan belts off and washed them in hot soapie water...... I used a brush and hot soapie water to clean all the pulleys too,,,,, then i rines the pulleys and belts in cold water....

I reinstalled the belts and it seemed to help alot...

I'll let you know in a few days of this worked....
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