robertbartsch

I recently pulled the stock crankshaft pulley and re-installed it. I used a breaker bar with lead pipe extension to tighten down the bolt. Transmission M6 in 2nd gear with parking brake on.

The pulleys are sqeeking like a stuck pig, however.


This happened once before and I re-tighted the crank bolt extra tight and it stoped sqeeking.

Question: How is the best way to tighten the crank pulley bolt? Can you jam a bar in the pulley to stop it from turning?

777

iTrader: (21)

Put the e-brake on and put the car in gear (i use 5th). Pull the crank on with old bolt or a longer one and tighten it to 240 ft lbs. Then break that bolt free and get a NEW crank bolt and tighten it to 37lb/ft and then turn it another 140 degrees. You need a new crank bolt, that is prolly your problem.

I just got the arp bolt and torqued it down as much as I could since no one seems to be able to get all of the extra 140 degrees nor the 240lb/ft.

robertbartsch

The hub of the crank bolt has an orange rubber-like substance on it from the factory. Do you think the rubber seal the old bolt is not sufficent to hold the pulley?

I'm using a 24 inch breaker bar with a 18 inch lead pipe.... I don't think I'm any where near 240lbs....

I'll try the new bolt trick - thanks....

I use anti-seize compound on most everything.... Is this a no-no for the crank bolt?

Mr. Luos

iTrader: (9)

This isn't a trick.
The bolts are NOT re-useable.

Many sponsors have them, not 'that' expensive. 7-8 bucks or so. It took me a while to find the longer bolt though, ended up checking out 3-4 different fastener places before finding one.

777

iTrader: (21)

The new bolt is not a trick. It's what's supposed to be done. What happens with this bolt is that it stretches at a certain torque. That is what the 37ft/lbs then 140 degrees is for. When the bolt is already pre-stretched it won't torque correctly. Anti-seize is a no-no for a crank bolt. You should have used red lock-tite if you were going to use anything (not need though). Anti-seize is a lubricant. It makes it easier to take the bolt back out if you need to. Like spark plugs. Try a new bolt without anti-seize and see how that works. Since the pulley is already on there. There is no need to pull it back on. Just take the old bolt out and put in the new one and torque it 37lb/ft and try and twist an extra 140 degrees past that, or as close to it as you can. This should solve your problem.

blkZ28spt

They are right, the new bolt is mandatory as it is a TTY (torque to yield) bolt and is therefore a one time use item. Some will argue that TTY bolts are only made so that manufacturers can sell more bolts but do it the safe way and buy a new bolt asap.
You can use loc-tite on the crank bolt, but I didn't. What I read said blue loctite. I couldn't get mine to 140* past before I maxed out my torque wrench at 250 lb-ft.

robertbartsch

I wish I could meet the GM engineer who designed the front crank pulley for the Gen 3.

I think they used a push on pulley to save .15 cents per vehicle.....

...the design sucks and causes people to spend dough on expensive pullers, new bolts, exotic threaded rods, and other rediculous stuff....


Back when Gen 3 were new, there were a few sponsors ----> who advocated using new TTY bolts on "everything" except the crank shaft pulley bolt....

My experience is that the crank bolt has to be EXTRA tight or you will get squeeling....

I'll take your advice and try a new bolt ....

Thanks...

blkZ28spt

Exotic threaded rods? lol I got mine reseated with no threaded rod or longer crank bolt.

Puller goes for $35 at autozone, but it's easier to just rent it for free. Bolts aren't horribly expensive or anything, either.

I hear ya on things being more complicated than need be though!

robertbartsch

I've seen a few posts about people who ripped their crank shaft threads out trying to replace the pulley with the stock bolt....

I'd rather be inconvienced than chance that problem...

as far as the puller deal goes I have used cheapo pullers with some success but they are a one or two shot deal..... so I bought a decent puller from Martha...

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

How does everybody keep the crank from turning while you tighten the balancer bolt? I don't have my shift linkage/cable hooked up yet. Tried jamming a large screwdriver into the small flywheel access hole up against the flywheel, to no avail. Thanks, Gar

777

iTrader: (21)

You can get a flywheel locking tool if you're an automatic. However, I have a 6-speed so I just put it in gear

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

Thanks...Where would I buy a flywheel locking tool? NAPA, or somewhere like that, maybe? Thanks, Gar

robertbartsch

Ive seen these in parts stores and have used them decades ago when I worked in a tranny shop.

Don't pay a bunch for it cause it is just a handle with a spring gizmo to lock onto the flywheel teeth.....

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

That simple handle type tool that you hold onto one flywheel tooth with? I need something that will fit through the small 2 1/2" inspection hole in the bellhousing, that will hold the flywheel somehow. Could I put a strong screw-driver or rod or something through the driveshaft U-joint, to wedge it against the bottom of the car? I wonder if that would work? Or would the transmission just slip? My tranny & converter does'nt have any fluid in it yet. Thanks, Gar

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

you can also take off the starter and shove the thickest screwdriver possible into one of the holes in the flexplate and wedge it against the block

works fine and is free

blkZ28spt

That's what I did.

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

Thank-You...

robertbartsch

what about an M6? Can you take the starter out and jam a screw driver into the flywheel?

The clutch holds but I plan on using a VeRY long led pipe for leverage.

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

i really dont think your gonna get 400+ ftlbs outta long lead pipe

if you clutch doesnt hold that you have other issues besides a squeeky crank bolt

robertbartsch

When you use a looooong breaker bar and lead pipe with an M6 the clutch holds but there is a springness that cushins the pull. It would be easier to apply a ton of tork if the rotating essemply were locked up.....

Trust me, my clutch is fine...