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What did I do to her?????

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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #21  
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umm you said you have the O2's just sitting there...... you need to have them deleted from your computer IE: tune, or you NEED to get oxygen sensor simulators from someone.
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 02:04 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Raven02TA
umm you said you have the O2's just sitting there...... you need to have them deleted from your computer IE: tune, or you NEED to get oxygen sensor simulators from someone.
So if I don't do this it will cause the car to run poorly?
I knew I had to do this for emmsions but was unaware of any other conciquences....
What exactly would these conciquences be??
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 02:15 PM
  #23  
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Check the E-Brake.















Sorry brother, couldn't resist.

I agree it sounds like you have more than one problem, but I think they're going to turn out to be easy fixes. Get the O2 sims, and check your spark plugs to make sure you're connected up correctly. Hopefully that's all the bog down is. If all you did was a header install, then the list of problems isn't too terribly long.

The grinding is probably going to be directly related to the headers also. Take the car out and do some scientific testing. Take another person with you. Check for when you hear the grinding, ie, what speeds, only if the wheels are turned, while backing up, etc.... Have your buddy hang out with you in the car to try to figure out where it's coming from, and have him outside the car to see if he can get anything else on it.

Don't panic, your baby is going to be okay. Just work the problem logically, and you'll be roasting tires again before you know it.
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 02:22 PM
  #24  
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The pcm uses the rear o2s to see how well the cats are doing. The pcm isn't seeing any type of signal from the rear o2s now and probably thinks your cats are not working or clogged. This will throw your fueling and spark curves all over the place as the pcm attempts to figure out what is going on. You could even be in limp mode (would explain the severe bogging). Since you cut the wires to one of the o2s I would recommend just getting a tune (you may need one anyway) to delete the rear o2s. If you get o2 simms, you will need to solder the cut wires to the sim and it may not work properly.
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 02:27 PM
  #25  
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So does not havning anythin in the rear O2 slots actually cause a detramental effect on the car??
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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"so does not havning anythin in the rear O2 slots actually cause a detramental affect on the car"

yes ,yes, and yes

fuerzaws6
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 06:58 PM
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ok, here's the thing with the rear o2's, this is how they work. You have 2 sets of o2 sensors. front and rear. The front are the only ones the affect performance or driveability. They are used by the car during normal driving (open loop) situations to correct your long term fuel trims, and not having them installed WILL deter performance and make your car a cavalier-bitch. The rear o2's, when not installed WILL NOT affect performance or driveability. BUT, if you have open bungs for the rear o2's (open holes where the o2's are supposed to go) then you will have problems, because in certain circumstances fresh air can be sucked by the front o2's and throw **** WAY off. Other than that, if you have no open holes, the rear o2's have nothing to do with your problem. Even if you dont have sims or the codes deleted, they will simply throw a code. that all. Hopefully that will put an end the o2 questions. I dont really know about what the scraping sound is, but if it feels like the noise and draggin sensation go together, then it is probably something in the tranny... other than that, i am clueless, hope this helps some...
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by natronathon
ok, here's the thing with the rear o2's, this is how they work. You have 2 sets of o2 sensors. front and rear. The front are the only ones the affect performance or driveability. They are used by the car during normal driving (open loop) situations to correct your long term fuel trims, and not having them installed WILL deter performance and make your car a cavalier-bitch. The rear o2's, when not installed WILL NOT affect performance or driveability. BUT, if you have open bungs for the rear o2's (open holes where the o2's are supposed to go) then you will have problems, because in certain circumstances fresh air can be sucked by the front o2's and throw **** WAY off. Other than that, if you have no open holes, the rear o2's have nothing to do with your problem. Even if you dont have sims or the codes deleted, they will simply throw a code. that all. Hopefully that will put an end the o2 questions. I dont really know about what the scraping sound is, but if it feels like the noise and draggin sensation go together, then it is probably something in the tranny... other than that, i am clueless, hope this helps some...
Thanks yea I have an ORy with no rear O2 sensor bungs. I havethe ffront O2s in so everything should be fne with that until I get the codes deleted... I hope. But I have no idea what the probolem could be. I thought of a tranny problem because of the natre of the effects. But something else is definetly wwrong because of how much the car is bogging down. If I put the pedal to the floor the car will almost completly stop accellerating and then take off.... then stop and go and stop and go. It also scared me because it got up to the redline and didnt shift?
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:37 PM
  #29  
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My 2 rear O2 sensors are disconnected and i have no problems.....i just unplugged them and pulled them out instead of letting them dangle there
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #30  
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I'm hoping that it's just spark plug wires.
Or atleast something else eassy to fix.....
could an exhaust leak cause this??
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:08 AM
  #31  
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wait, you did make sure and connect the front o2 sensor wires to front o2's right? if you mixed up the cables it would have the same effect as not having front o2's... i doubt you did, but something to consider anyway
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 01:28 AM
  #32  
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I'll check that out but I'm pretty sure there in right.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 08:29 AM
  #33  
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Exhaust leak will cause this. You need to have no leaks at all. The computer looks at the air/fuel ratio to set fueling. If you have a leak that will be wrong.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 11:15 AM
  #34  
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it would have to be a VERY large leak to cause that kind of bogging... im somewhat stumped
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 03:45 PM
  #35  
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Ok I think I discovered what it is....

The bogging was just my computer getting used to the car again after I unplugged the batterry. I had srivin it around before and it never got used to it but I drove it for a while and beat on it pretty hard so it got better.

I think the grinding is the Y pipe hittin the floorboard directly underneath the drivers seat, because I noticed it did it alot on heavy turns.

A question why would the Ypipe only hit under sharp turns or accelleration from 0-10 miles an hour, and pretty much no other time??

And how do I adjust the Y-pipe not to hit the floor when It's already on the car?

Gettin my codes read for free tomm, and hopefully havin the guy delete the rear O2 code...
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 04:36 PM
  #36  
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the banging on the floorpan is normal for pacesetter headers from what i get out of it. i have the problem too. i would switch your front O2 sensors out with your rears, just the sensors, and see if maybe you front ones got burnt up (a problem that can be caused by long tube headers).
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 05:08 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by vMaster0fPuppets
I hear a ticking underneath the car. I;ve read that this can be fixed by the AIR restriction plate mod. Could this cause any of these other problems??
Considering what you just did, I'd say it's exhaust leak noise...

...but that isn't the main problem, just the source of the ticking...


BTW - my SLP LTs never rattle or hit the car. I gotta be really careful about speed bumps, though. They hang really low at the collectors. With the Loudmouth exhaust, they sound awesome!

Last edited by FUN LS1; Oct 5, 2005 at 05:15 PM.
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