DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Thank you man!
Honestly they still look about as good as they did when I put them in.
Just make sure that when your ready to put them up and in to USE SOME GLOVES and keep them nice and shiny. I obviously failed to do that.
I did only some basic polishing on them. Just enough to get them to the point you saw in the pics. That was maybe 2 good passes with some Never-Dull and some simple buffing. They were as shiny as I really wanted them. And since 75% of them would be tucked away in the engine compartment, I really didn't focus too hard on it. The "shine" they had may have faded a bit, but no odd discoloration so far. If you do at least what I did, you'll be happy. Any more and I think you'll be that much better off.


Ahhh, the pipe cleaning.
I was going to include that in the writeup but I didn't know if anyone actually did that.
I would have thought the more mechanically inclined types would have access to an air hoze or something to blow it out.
Alas I did not, so heres what I did.

I took some thicker gauge speaker wire and made two lenghths, maybe about 3' a piece.
I tied each length to an old sock and made sure there was enough sock tied to not rip when i pulled on either end. So... it looked like this
loop---------- wire ----------sock---------- wire---------- loop
From there, I pushed the loop end of one wire through the flanges and out the collector, the other end with a loop was hanging out the flange end.
Once I could get ahold of the loop inside the collector, I just pulled the sock through. I did that several times with each primary tube.
And most times pulled back and forth while the sock was in the primary to sort of scrub the inside a bit.
Be careful here, there's a reason I tied it on both ends, you do NOT want to get that sock stuck in the middle of your primary. I imagine you would have a hard time getting it out if the wire ripped out of the sock or whatever, hence the tie on both ends.
Then for the collectors, I just used various longer type accesories to get the gunk out of there and called er done.

Again, this was part of the process of making the install my own.
Did i have to do this, maybe not. I certainly never heard of anyone else doing it. But I'm a simple man, and have simple logic. Dirt and gunk bad, clean out.
Done and done. Does that make sense?

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

Great writeup man.

V6 Bird

iTrader: (15)

Heres some of the pics I took this last weekend prior to installing. Tell me what you guys think?

RawWS6

Great writeup, thanks!

Jon@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the write up we really appreciate it! Awesome job on the install. It looks great! Be sure to let us know if we can do anything else for you!

Thanks again!
Jon

radz282003

iTrader: (1)

IMHO, that was a GREAT write-up. It was very informative, and to me, it seemed you eliminated a lot of unnecessary clutter, like the EGR delete and what not. I had a similar experience with my QTP install. Unlike you, however, I did not think I had to get the car up as high, as you had, and eventually I did, but, that driver' s side went right in after it was 100% verticle. Passenger' s side was a breeze, OMG. With MACs, I had to pull the starter out and crap. What a pain. Like yourself, I chose to clean the insides of the tubes. I too polished them, for a few hours, in fact. I can report, after close to about 1500 miles, they are a little shiny, but discolored. They have turned into a orangeish-brown finish, but not sorts of rust or corrosion. I like how they look now, in fact. I think it was worth my time

I had elected to keep my Borla, so I had QTPs' s cat' d y-pipe, and that was " fun ", but, your write-up on the duals was equally as good. This sounds like a quality kit, and I, like yourself, don' t think the cleanup was that big a deal. There were some areas on my Borla that needed a little TLC, so it sounds like you purchased a quality product.

Again, a great write-up. Welcome to the LS1

Marc '99T/A

iTrader: (22)

Awesome write up and pics! I will definately use this for reference when I install my headers and TD's in a couple of weeks.

YouCantCmyZ28

iTrader: (7)

any dyno results or tuning to see your hp gains

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

GREAT WRITE-UP....Looks good----

radz282003

iTrader: (1)

If it matters, I have had some dyno numbers for you to consider. One can not make a direct comparison, but, maybe a reference.

I had my car tuned, for my QTPs early November. With my stall locked, and a QTP cat' d y-pipe, my car put down 354RWHP and 360RWTQ. For reference, unlocked, it put down 317/307.

Now, last winter, under similar conditions, with the only changes being MACs, with cat' s and the OEM converter, it put down 334/355, with just a Diablosport tune.

Another 20RWHP, with a tune, is not bad, over what I had with some MACs. Adimittedly, like I said, the MAC tune was just a custom internet tune, not an acutal dyno tune, like with my QTPs. Hopefully, this is helpful.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the comments folks

Sadly, I didn't dyno the car when it was stock, and since I have all the mods in my sig.
Also unfortunately it is now winter up north here so the car is a garage queen for at least 5 months or so.
I am going to try to learn to tune during this time and maybe will go get a dyno after I am satisfied I have tuned it sucessfully.

DJ

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Good review and write up!

I edited a couple posts adding breaks between photos to keep the thread within the screen for us with lesser monitors

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Very nice write up. I like it when people do write ups for others, nothing like sharing when you can!

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Good work John! Thanks for taking the time and sharing the install with the rest of us.

you2slo

I know this is an old post but had all the info I needed for my install. TSP should include something like this in their TD kits.

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

that looks damn good, good info to cant wait to do my headers,

Viper

iTrader: (6)

DirtyJohn

Great write up. May I add when you asked about the clamps and tightening: typically people do use breaker bars, but you usually have to go back over them 3-4 times after heat cycling to make sure you get a good fit. After 4, it's done.

YouCantCmyZ28

iTrader: (7)

do you have to take the seats out and all that or is it possible to do it another way?

you2slo

The rear seats are held in by 4 13mm bolts. It's very easy to remove them.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

You don't have to take the rear seats out. You can pop the hatch, remove the sailpanels/speakers. Then you can fold down the rear seat and pull the carpet up from the back. Pull it toward the front of the car. You will be able to get your FENDER washers/nuts and wrenches down there.

When you get done, just stuff the carpet back under the side panels, replace the sail panels and shut the hatch.

You could do it in 2 minutes if you're violent enough.



PS - Adding this to the exhaust sticky!