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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #21  
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I feel a bit cheated. I am having my first Dyno Run on Saturday at Colvins in Austin Texas. I'm gonna be disappointed for sure. Stock the WS6 supposedly has 340 ft-lbs, and 320hp, with all the mods in the sig does this mean in reality i'll have maybe what my owner's manual say's I should have stock?
I don't have my sights set too high, but I am hoping for something around 350ish. I mean what the hell is the purpose for spending hours and hours and dolla after dolla on mods just to get back to what the car is rated from the factory with?......Getting pretty sick of it.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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I also have flowmaster and I love the sound, and Ive been told my car sounds good. It gets loud when you hit the gas.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
I feel a bit cheated. I am having my first Dyno Run on Saturday at Colvins in Austin Texas. I'm gonna be disappointed for sure. Stock the WS6 supposedly has 340 ft-lbs, and 320hp, with all the mods in the sig does this mean in reality i'll have maybe what my owner's manual say's I should have stock?
I don't have my sights set too high, but I am hoping for something around 350ish. I mean what the hell is the purpose for spending hours and hours and dolla after dolla on mods just to get back to what the car is rated from the factory with?......Getting pretty sick of it.
well..thats because stock..the manufacture rates the car at the flywheel...when you dyno is..its at the wheels. if you have a cam..i'd get the car tuned also..cause your probably leaving a few hp on the table without tuning it. also..without soem lt headers...350 might be kinda hard...a cams true potential will be choked by the stock manifolds.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 12:26 PM
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I only have the hotcam, james from RWTD wrote a predator tune for me, but i havent really tweaked the timing and fuel after installing the tune. Maybe I can squeak 2 or 3 more horse from dialing it in.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 12:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
I only have the hotcam, james from RWTD wrote a predator tune for me, but i havent really tweaked the timing and fuel after installing the tune. Maybe I can squeak 2 or 3 more horse from dialing it in.

the best tuen you can get is to get it on a dyno with someone who has efi live or ls1 edit to do a proper tune...every car is different..handheld tuners usually do more harm then good. Plus, headers will wake the cam up.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 12:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
the best tuen you can get is to get it on a dyno with someone who has efi live or ls1 edit to do a proper tune...every car is different..handheld tuners usually do more harm then good. Plus, headers will wake the cam up.
That is what I am afraid of. I just have a hard time with forking out another 450-500 bucks, and then everytime thereafter when I make a mod.
Not to mention, there are a crapload of Texas members, but almost all of them seem to be in the DFW area, and Houston, Austin is a cool place but there are no cool shops like EPP or whatnot close by, everything has to be ordered online and wait. I hate waiting ya know...
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 12:47 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
That is what I am afraid of. I just have a hard time with forking out another 450-500 bucks, and then everytime thereafter when I make a mod.
Not to mention, there are a crapload of Texas members, but almost all of them seem to be in the DFW area, and Houston, Austin is a cool place but there are no cool shops like EPP or whatnot close by, everything has to be ordered online and wait. I hate waiting ya know...

If i were you, I would just wait on the Dyno tune until you get everything you want finished with your car. It will be a waste to tune after tune....cause most of the time tuning is just for squeezing out the horse. And besides, once you have everything finished, and get that tune, it'll make you feel good that the tune alone helped you pull another 20 hp from all your mods at once....will probably make the extra 500 bucks worth it at that point. One thing, your rear is cheating you of extra hp because its larger and takes more power to rotate the components. If I were you I wouldn't upgrade the rear until....you have 450+ hp to the wheels or two, you bust the stocker by running slicks and dumping the clutch at 5000 rpms....

Regards,
Adrian
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 01:05 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
That is what I am afraid of. I just have a hard time with forking out another 450-500 bucks, and then everytime thereafter when I make a mod.
Not to mention, there are a crapload of Texas members, but almost all of them seem to be in the DFW area, and Houston, Austin is a cool place but there are no cool shops like EPP or whatnot close by, everything has to be ordered online and wait. I hate waiting ya know...
Well usually they will give you one additional retune for free, so if you were to waqit and get headers then get your car tuned youd still have another free tune if you were ever to get heads or something else. Also, you went with a moser 12-bolt but only a hotcam, can i ask why? Im sure the stock rear could probably have handled the power a hotcam would put down, then again some people have broke the stock 10-bolt with stock hp ratings, but ive seen a couple of my buddies who have heads/cam cars running nittos launch hard amultiple times on teh street and at the track and they have yet to break it. Also, like someone else already said the HP ratings from the factory are flywheel ratings, so you can pretty much ignore them as most ls1 powered cars put down between 300-320 rwhp stock. With a hotcam, headers, and tuning you should be around 350rwhp, give or take a few hp. good luck though and let us know what you end up dynoing.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 01:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
That is what I am afraid of. I just have a hard time with forking out another 450-500 bucks, and then everytime thereafter when I make a mod.
Not to mention, there are a crapload of Texas members, but almost all of them seem to be in the DFW area, and Houston, Austin is a cool place but there are no cool shops like EPP or whatnot close by, everything has to be ordered online and wait. I hate waiting ya know...
most places charge 400-500 for the first tune...and tehn 100-200 for followng tunes...i'd jsut get headers and then get a tune...what else are you planning on getting? do you know what your a/f is right now?
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 01:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
That is what I am afraid of. I just have a hard time with forking out another 450-500 bucks, and then everytime thereafter when I make a mod.
Not to mention, there are a crapload of Texas members, but almost all of them seem to be in the DFW area, and Houston, Austin is a cool place but there are no cool shops like EPP or whatnot close by, everything has to be ordered online and wait. I hate waiting ya know...
There are a couple of good shops here man. Only one I can tell you about here is ART since they are a sponsor though. PM me if you want to know about the other one.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 02:00 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
I feel a bit cheated. I am having my first Dyno Run on Saturday at Colvins in Austin Texas. I'm gonna be disappointed for sure. Stock the WS6 supposedly has 340 ft-lbs, and 320hp, with all the mods in the sig. Does this mean in reality i'll have mayne what my owner's manual say's I should have stock?
I don't have my sights set too high, but I am hoping for something around 350ish. I mean what the hell is the purpose for spending hours and hours and dolla after dolla on mods just to get back to what the car is rated from the factory with?......Getting pretty sick of it.
With those mods getting back to where the factory rated you shouldn't be hard AT ALL. In fact, 350 shouldn't be too much of a reach either with all you have listed. Unless you have yet to tune anything.

Heck, i haven't tuned anything and look at my mods. Nothing special or really in need of a tune. But once i get my cam and Underdrive pulley on, i'll take it up for a tune.

Do what others say, wait until you feel like after this mod, you probably won't put anymore mods on it. Then you can get the tune. Even though you and i BOTH know there is no such saying as "i'm done with my car".
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 02:47 PM
  #32  
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I don't think flowmaster is bad, but it could be better. The 80 series is considered the biggest choker. THe sound is good, but you will get more power out of something else. I am getting ready to take mine out for insertion of dual exhaust.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
most places charge 400-500 for the first tune...and tehn 100-200 for followng tunes...i'd jsut get headers and then get a tune...what else are you planning on getting? do you know what your a/f is right now?

That is an outrageous ******* price.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DarkAzNite
I feel a bit cheated. I am having my first Dyno Run on Saturday at Colvins in Austin Texas. I'm gonna be disappointed for sure. Stock the WS6 supposedly has 340 ft-lbs, and 320hp, with all the mods in the sig does this mean in reality i'll have maybe what my owner's manual say's I should have stock?
I don't have my sights set too high, but I am hoping for something around 350ish. I mean what the hell is the purpose for spending hours and hours and dolla after dolla on mods just to get back to what the car is rated from the factory with?......Getting pretty sick of it.

Did you **** up your car? High mileage? Not sure exactly why youd be worried about bringing the car back to stock numbers... Are you guessing if you take off all those mods, the car will be as fast as a civic?

I know you gotta know about RWHP after doing those mods. Someone had to accidently told you by now, I am sure. So, its 320 + whatever your mods bring in - drivetrain % = RWHP. So if you dyno 320RWHP, you made an improvement. A significant one at that, but no for ALL of your mods.

Oh and the Moser was a good choice in ANY case. I ******* wish I had one in my car. Sure, it maybe overkill right now, but it may not be later. Ill trade some power for reliability anyday.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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I went from the flowmaster that was on my TA when I got it to the B&B Triflow, and it sounded much better.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AKIRA
Did you **** up your car? High mileage? Not sure exactly why youd be worried about bringing the car back to stock numbers... Are you guessing if you take off all those mods, the car will be as fast as a civic?

I know you gotta know about RWHP after doing those mods. Someone had to accidently told you by now, I am sure. So, its 320 + whatever your mods bring in - drivetrain % = RWHP. So if you dyno 320RWHP, you made an improvement. A significant one at that, but no for ALL of your mods.

Oh and the Moser was a good choice in ANY case. I ******* wish I had one in my car. Sure, it maybe overkill right now, but it may not be later. Ill trade some power for reliability anyday.
hes worried about the stock numbers because he is getting wheel hp and fly wheel hp mixed up.

Originally Posted by AKIRA
That is an outrageous ******* price.
whats ouragous? I don't know a place that will dyno tuen for less than 400.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
hes worried about the stock numbers because he is getting wheel hp and fly wheel hp mixed up.



whats ouragous? I don't know a place that will dyno tuen for less than 400.

That is outrageous, but standard! The going rate just about anywhere is $450-500!
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28MASS
Well usually they will give you one additional retune for free, so if you were to waqit and get headers then get your car tuned youd still have another free tune if you were ever to get heads or something else. Also, you went with a moser 12-bolt but only a hotcam, can i ask why? Im sure the stock rear could probably have handled the power a hotcam would put down, then again some people have broke the stock 10-bolt with stock hp ratings, but ive seen a couple of my buddies who have heads/cam cars running nittos launch hard amultiple times on teh street and at the track and they have yet to break it. Also, like someone else already said the HP ratings from the factory are flywheel ratings, so you can pretty much ignore them as most ls1 powered cars put down between 300-320 rwhp stock. With a hotcam, headers, and tuning you should be around 350rwhp, give or take a few hp. good luck though and let us know what you end up dynoing.
First..sorry for kind of hijacking this thread, I was going to say that I have a flowmaster catback on my TA and love the sound, power sucks, am comparing my 99 SS that had a B&B triflow catback, was quieter (unless WOT) but had much more punch.
I had the cam put in while I had the stock 10 bolt, since then have blown 2 stockers, first was from a 4k launch with mild mods, second was just from daily driving, tore up the spider gears in the diff....so I wasn't about to fork over another xxx amount $$'s for another piece of crap that would maybe last another year or two at most, could practically have bought a new one already.
Thanks
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 04:53 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
most places charge 400-500 for the first tune...and tehn 100-200 for followng tunes...i'd jsut get headers and then get a tune...what else are you planning on getting? do you know what your a/f is right now?
Actually I am not sure what my A/F is right now, problem with the Predator Handheld is that it was a previous version that doesn't have any logging, its kind of tough to hammer on it and look at the stupid thing to read KR, A/F etc.
That is partially the reason for heading to the Dyno, can get a printout and also use the Predator to make some changes since i already invested 419.99 for it. I originally bought thinking it would help to have multiple tunes and change them when at the track, or running around town, or one of the wonderful 100degree 95% humidity nights in Austin..
Thanks
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 05:03 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Haans249
If i were you, I would just wait on the Dyno tune until you get everything you want finished with your car. It will be a waste to tune after tune....cause most of the time tuning is just for squeezing out the horse. And besides, once you have everything finished, and get that tune, it'll make you feel good that the tune alone helped you pull another 20 hp from all your mods at once....will probably make the extra 500 bucks worth it at that point. One thing, your rear is cheating you of extra hp because its larger and takes more power to rotate the components. If I were you I wouldn't upgrade the rear until....you have 450+ hp to the wheels or two, you bust the stocker by running slicks and dumping the clutch at 5000 rpms....

Regards,
Adrian
Unfortunately too late
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