Spark Plug Wires
11-22-2005, 09:43 PM
#3
Never heard of the latter brand.
Many go with stockers. MSDs will ohm out far below stockers. I haven't owned a set of MSDs yet. In past experience resistance in those wires as been all over the place. Not in each particular set, but various different sets.
I run Taylor Thundervolts. There was a recent thread about how these plugs have come apart on people. In my experience, they have been great. I've had them on and off, several times. The boots have never come apart on me. I just installed the heat protector boots recently. The wires had held up being extremly close to my LT headers just fine. Figured I'd throw the red boots on there for bling factor though.
I say go with MSDs, or Taylors. The MSD set is going to be about $15-$20 bucks cheaper than the Tayors.
Many go with stockers. MSDs will ohm out far below stockers. I haven't owned a set of MSDs yet. In past experience resistance in those wires as been all over the place. Not in each particular set, but various different sets.
I run Taylor Thundervolts. There was a recent thread about how these plugs have come apart on people. In my experience, they have been great. I've had them on and off, several times. The boots have never come apart on me. I just installed the heat protector boots recently. The wires had held up being extremly close to my LT headers just fine. Figured I'd throw the red boots on there for bling factor though.
I say go with MSDs, or Taylors. The MSD set is going to be about $15-$20 bucks cheaper than the Tayors.
11-22-2005, 09:50 PM
#5
No, listen to me, I have had or worked with MSD, Moroso, and Taylor's and I run LS6 wires on my car right now. Never had a better wire on there. Consistent and great fit. MSD boots are too long, Moroso (2, yes 2 sets I had) were absolute **** and wouldnt fit on the car, Taylor's have fallen appart. Plus LS6 or GM Performance Parts wires are about $45 
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11-22-2005, 09:59 PM
#8
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Is there really any gain to be had using LS6 or GMPP wires? Personally, I'm fine with using stock LS1 wires. I've tried MSDs and Taylors as well, never had any issues using either but also never saw any gains. Now I'm back to stock LS1 wires and they're working fine.
11-22-2005, 10:24 PM
#9
Stock LS1 wires are fine. The others are red which is cool looking. I am not sure on the performance difference, I would just imagine the LS6 wires would just get the voltage across better, hell it may be the same wire just red, who knows.
Part numbers for the wires are.....
LS6 89017270
GMPP 12495519
Part numbers for the wires are.....
LS6 89017270
GMPP 12495519
11-23-2005, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
i melted my msd on my header from touching
11-23-2005, 07:38 PM
#14
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Spark Plug Wires I just did a spark plug replacement and MSD wire replacement on my 40k '00 M6 Z28. Might not have needed it yet but I wanted a clean baseline since I just bought the car last week. FRIGGIN LOVE IT!!!
My headache was the #8 plug, farthest back on the passenger side. I could not get to it with the stock manifold from the top or front.
What is the secret guys??
Tom
My headache was the #8 plug, farthest back on the passenger side. I could not get to it with the stock manifold from the top or front.
What is the secret guys??
Tom
11-23-2005, 08:05 PM
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Pull the transmission and get it from the bottom lol
Seriously though, I've got the trans out and I'm seriously tempted to pull my wires and change 'em.
The best way IMO is to pull the coilpacks off that valve cover. The last bolt on the coilpack is a bitch to get to, but once it's out you can throw far, far away and not have to deal with it the next time around. It's also a good idea to kneel on your battery so you can get better reach and leverage.
lolSeriously though, I've got the trans out and I'm seriously tempted to pull my wires and change 'em.
The best way IMO is to pull the coilpacks off that valve cover. The last bolt on the coilpack is a bitch to get to, but once it's out you can throw far, far away and not have to deal with it the next time around. It's also a good idea to kneel on your battery so you can get better reach and leverage.
11-23-2005, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
The best way IMO is to pull the coilpacks off that valve cover. The last bolt on the coilpack is a bitch to get to, but once it's out you can throw far, far away and not have to deal with it the next time around.
On my '98, the coils are mounted individually on the valvecover rather than on a rail, so it just seems easier to leave that rear coil on for the plug change and work around it. I think pulling it would be more work than it's worth.
11-23-2005, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jsturdivant
Going to change the plugs on my newly acquired '01 TA with 43k. Do I need to change the wires will I'm at it? If so which ones?
11-24-2005, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Yikes, I hope I don't run into that problem...MSD 8.5's are gonna go in after my header install...
If you do burn one or a few I'm sure MSD will replace it free of charge. I had one wire that was 2500ohms while the rest were 40, I called MSD directly and one of their tech's sent me not 1 but 5 replacement wires first class air mail for free.
Also the easiest way to get the #8 wire/plug is from under the car if you have headers, never changed them before with stock manifold but from the looks of it they would be a PITA.
P.S. No flaming on the bbk shorties, they came with the car when I bought it lol
