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Advice needed Broken header bolt :(

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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:08 PM
  #1  
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Default Advice needed Broken header bolt :(

I broke off a header bolt at the front of the engine on #2 cylinder. I cant get a drill in there, and vice grips wont hang on, there is only a 1/4" of threads sticking out. Anyone have an idea that doesnt involve removing the head?

Thanks, I attached a picture
Attached Thumbnails Advice needed Broken header bolt :(-sspx0071.jpg   Advice needed Broken header bolt :(-sspx0070.jpg  

Last edited by turbosc3; Nov 26, 2005 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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damn what were you doing, how much pressure did u put on that bolt and is that the only one that broke??
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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If ya cant get it with needle nose Vise-Grips, Just a thought...Small angle die grinder chucked with bit. Would say left hand bit, but if it breaks....you are screwed. extracter. not sure about heating around it, as it is alum. and bolt is steel. Oh well good luck. Maybe anti-seze on the new ones. Hope mine are.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:37 PM
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if you have a dremel, try to cut a slot in it and use a stuby screw driver. Or, grind flats on the sides and use an adjustable wrench. Doesn't look like you have much hangin out though. Craftsman sells broken bolt extrctors (kinda like a reverse ez out), if you can find a size that will grab on that nub, than that might work. You can try spinning it using the edge of a screw driver or chisel. Just tap it in the right direction. Know anyone that has a tig welder? Have them weld a little piece of scrap metal (like an old bolt or something) on the end of it and use a wrench. If your willing to spend the money, you can buy a terry drill and some ez outs and go that route. If none of that works, I think the heads are coming off.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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(1)Unplug the computer and battery. Weld a nut onto the
broken bolt, locating the welding ground lead ON the head.
If it is not really loose when you try to thread it out, thread
it out and in by increments.
(2)Or else screw around with a drill and EZ out or other and
try not to damage the surface area where the header
mounts.
(3)Then again, you might be able to grab it with some vice
grips and thread it right out.

I would do (1), b/c I've done it a 1000 times with broken
bolts.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:45 PM
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are there ways of avoiding what he did?? i mean i am gonna be installing headers and i dont want this to happen to me.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
are there ways of avoiding what he did?? i mean i am gonna be installing headers and i dont want this to happen to me.
Do what I wish I would have done: get a bottom tap and
chase the threads in the heads, preferably with cutting
fluid or WD40 or similar. I had 2 bolts that really gave me
hell (going in). I had spare bolts and used beaucoupe
WD40 threading in and out until I was happy with the
threads. It looked like the stockers had thread sealant
on them, this may have caused my probs or the header
flanges might have been drilled just a little off.
BTW, all mine came OUT just fine, 2 were getting really
tight going IN on the pass side (of course).
This stuff just happens sometimes,no matter how
careful you are.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
are there ways of avoiding what he did?? i mean i am gonna be installing headers and i dont want this to happen to me.
Just be sure that you start threading the bolts from the inside and working your way out. Tighten each up a bit at a time. That should help you from some headaches that could occur.

I had 2 bolts that broke on me. It was the back 2 on the drivers side to be honest. While I was working on the passenger side and finishing it up, I had 2 friends that were working on the drivers side. Come to find out, they had tightened up the very first couple of bolts all the way and then **** hit the fan.

Just be careful and do not be in a rush and you should be fine as long as you know the proper procedure.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 07:07 PM
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how much torque do you tighten header bolts to?? or do you basically go until they are snug???
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 07:17 PM
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no, its 11ftlbs for initial, then after a heat cycle, torque to 17 ftlb
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 07:20 PM
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ok thanks that will help out, so are the stock header bolts hard to get out the first time or do they just take alittle bit of muscle to come off. also what size are the bolts 10mm??
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 07:25 PM
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http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952161000
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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i have been down that road. just pull the head off and take it out. you risk to much other damage to surounding componets
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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just drill it out and re tap it
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
ok thanks that will help out, so are the stock header bolts hard to get out the first time or do they just take alittle bit of muscle to come off. also what size are the bolts 10mm??
The header bolts are 10mm. They aren't too bad to get out, but it will take a little muscle. I actually sat up on top of the engine to get a better angle on some of them.
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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Same thing happened to me. I figured I had done enough damage, so I loaded the car on a trailer and took it to the Chevy garage. The Shop supervisor worked on my car.
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