Bought used LS6 intake, Problems, Need Help
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Bought used LS6 intake, Problems, Need Help I bought a used LS6 intake and got it this weekend. It had a few problems though, is epoxy an easy fix here or would manifold pressure or something like that be problematic in this area?
On the back of the intake, there is a smaller and a larger vacuum line "snout" if you know what I'm talking about. The larger one is broken off. Also, if you're looking straight on at the back of the intake, on the lower left where the entire circular sensor is, the seam between the circular sensor/vacuum area and the actual intake is cracked a bit.
I didn't know if these were common problems that can be damaged during installation/removal or shipping, or what possible solutions I have without scraping the intake and throwing $300+ down the drain. Thanks for any help.
On the back of the intake, there is a smaller and a larger vacuum line "snout" if you know what I'm talking about. The larger one is broken off. Also, if you're looking straight on at the back of the intake, on the lower left where the entire circular sensor is, the seam between the circular sensor/vacuum area and the actual intake is cracked a bit.
I didn't know if these were common problems that can be damaged during installation/removal or shipping, or what possible solutions I have without scraping the intake and throwing $300+ down the drain. Thanks for any help.
I remember seeing one in the for sale forum that was opened up in the back for porting and epoxied back together. I think Patty had his apart and epoxied it back together too. Not sure on the type of epoxy though. Probably a 2-part liquid, not the paste type.
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Yeah, the crack doesn't look to be all the way through. I'm thinking a good gob of epoxy would do the job there. On the broken off vacuum piece I wonder if epoxy would be strong enough to get the job done though.
As soon as I get this figured out I can buy the crossover tube and coolant plugs, and get an underdrive pulley, and I'll be set for the next round of mods.
As soon as I get this figured out I can buy the crossover tube and coolant plugs, and get an underdrive pulley, and I'll be set for the next round of mods.
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67 views and no one knows. You guys are killing me here. The thought of having flushed $300+ down the toilet is torture and you guys are letting me hang until the last possible minute it seems. 
OK, looks like the one connection is the MAP sensor, the small nipple is the vacuum line, and the larger one is for the brake booster. The brake booster is the one that is broken off (clean break, still have the piece that broke off), and in one small area around the MAP sensor there is a crack.
Just wanting to update with the correct info.
OK, looks like the one connection is the MAP sensor, the small nipple is the vacuum line, and the larger one is for the brake booster. The brake booster is the one that is broken off (clean break, still have the piece that broke off), and in one small area around the MAP sensor there is a crack.
Just wanting to update with the correct info.
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Sold The Fun Stuff :(
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I guess what I'm wondering is if A) this is a common problem in removal and/or shipping and B) if epoxy is a viable option for the long run, or will it compromise the integrity of the piece (in which case I need to contact the seller and work something out).
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there is a process called plasti-weld. You can actually weld the plastic back together. I unfortunatly do not have any further info on this. Check with a mobile detailing company. A company that fixes paint and dents and scratches on cars/trucks
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For plastic I would instinctively recommend a cement glue like you would use for a model. The heat factor would be a concern though....
http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rgg.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rgg.htm
For the crack, epoxy should be fine. Try to find a two part epoxy with a longer set time. The quick set epoxies supposedly have less strength. However, the key point to using epoxy (regardless of set time) is obtaining a good bond between the epoxy and the plastic. Rough up the plastic area to be glued with sand paper and clean the surface really well with alcohol before gluing. Allow the epoxy to spill over the crack a little to give a stronger bond.
With respect to the vacuum port that is broken. I doubt gluing this back without additional support will work for long. I do not know the diameter of this port, but try to find a copper or brass tube that will just tightly fit inside the port or around the port. Rough both surfaces (metal tubing as well, especially) with sandpaper, clean, and then epoxy the metal tubing half inside (or outside) the port piece on the intake and slide the broken piece of the port on (or in) the other half of the metal tubing using epoxy as well. Let dry at least two days. This way, the metal tubing takes the stress of the booster hose and any clamp. The metal tube will have to fit snug on or in the port. Just an idea.
Just to clarify, the metal tubing does not need to be longer than the original port, again it is just to take the stress off the joint where the port is glued back together. Hope this makes sense.
With respect to the vacuum port that is broken. I doubt gluing this back without additional support will work for long. I do not know the diameter of this port, but try to find a copper or brass tube that will just tightly fit inside the port or around the port. Rough both surfaces (metal tubing as well, especially) with sandpaper, clean, and then epoxy the metal tubing half inside (or outside) the port piece on the intake and slide the broken piece of the port on (or in) the other half of the metal tubing using epoxy as well. Let dry at least two days. This way, the metal tubing takes the stress of the booster hose and any clamp. The metal tube will have to fit snug on or in the port. Just an idea.
Just to clarify, the metal tubing does not need to be longer than the original port, again it is just to take the stress off the joint where the port is glued back together. Hope this makes sense.
Last edited by dlmater; Dec 6, 2005 at 09:59 AM.
If it's the vacuum nipple thats broke off, I have had the same problem. I just ground it off flat and drilled and tapped the intake, installed a 1/8 pipe fitting for a 1/8 vacuum line and I was home free.
Kurt
www.autokraft.org
Kurt
www.autokraft.org
Use "JB Weld" as the epoxy. It will take the intake temperatures and is very strong stuff. They make a "Quik" version that sets in five minutes that works just fine.
I coated most of the inside of an aluminum water pump housing with JB Weld after using the wrong pump and cavitating a hole in the housing. Two years later it was still perfect when I got around to putting in another housing.
I coated most of the inside of an aluminum water pump housing with JB Weld after using the wrong pump and cavitating a hole in the housing. Two years later it was still perfect when I got around to putting in another housing.
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Great idea Kurt, thanks for the info.
Also, good leads on the metal tube idea and the site with the epoxies and plastic welder stuff on it. Thanks fellas.
Also, good leads on the metal tube idea and the site with the epoxies and plastic welder stuff on it. Thanks fellas.
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Someone brought it to my attention that the entire MAP sensor assembly from my LS1 intake might be able to be swapped over to the LS6 intake, thereby making the broken brake booster nipple a moot point. Anyone know for sure if it's the same MAP sensor or if they are different part numbers?
