Engine oil leak - typical?
The rear main seal is supposed to be a pretty damn good design, and not prone to leakage. I wish I could give you an area to zero in on, but I've just never heard of oil leakage problems on the LS-series of engines.
Do you have to jack the engine up to pull the oil pan? Who has got the best deal on on the GM service manuals?
. I would rather deal with repalcing the intake gasket than the oil pan anyway. My car did something simular, I found that it came from the factory with a twisted valvecover gasket, just took a few miles for it to start leaking.
Since I replaced the gasket, haven't had a problem since.
You can check the gasket by pulling the valve cover. The gasket is rubber "o ring" around the edge of the cover.
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My car did something simular, I found that it came from the factory with a twisted valvecover gasket, just took a few miles for it to start leaking.
Since I replaced the gasket, haven't had a problem since.
You can check the gasket by pulling the valve cover. The gasket is rubber "o ring" around the edge of the cover.
Is it best to get the GM gaskets or are the ones from the local parts store OK?
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Is it best to get the GM gaskets or are the ones from the local parts store OK?
Last edited by WILWAXU; Jan 18, 2006 at 09:09 PM.
My leak never touched the headers, but it did leave alot of oil on the side of the motor. 
There is not enough of a leak on mine to even really notice YET.
My 98 Z28 (13k miles) is dripping oil onto the garage floor from the passenger side of the engine bay. Can't seem to find any residue though.
Still look for valve cover leak? The leak is getting worse...
A leak detected above the starter and dripping down off the start motor & mounting bolts...that's from a leaking crank position sensor. it's o-ring has failed. GM has no part# for (and doesn't provide) a replacement o-ring. The entire sensor must be replaced...and good luck if you elect to try a cheap aftermarket sensor because the original GM and AC Delco replacements are so pricey. Aftermarket crank & cam position sensors are as bad as aftermarket knock sensors as far as whether they'll even work, or how long if they work at all. A less known (and far less costly) alternative is to replace just the o-ring seals on the crank sensor. But that 0-ring is a weird size and special material, so difficult to find. You don't just go to the auto parts store and get one. Here's a source for this o-ring that has excellent reviews:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17397410128...MAAOSw5SRfFbVI






