Which Motor Mounts???
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: McAllen, TX
Which Motor Mounts??? Hey guys Im planing on changing the motor mounts but which ones do you think would be best to get?
Spohn LS1 Solid Motor Mounts
OR
Prothan Poly Motor Mounts
I would really appreciate your help.
Steve
Spohn LS1 Solid Motor Mounts
OR
Prothan Poly Motor Mounts
I would really appreciate your help.
Steve
Prothane Poly mounts on my car. All the benifits of sold mounts, and none of the side effects 
They work awesome, and are one of my favorite mods to my car.
Pick them up from thunder racing for about 50$
They work awesome, and are one of my favorite mods to my car.
Pick them up from thunder racing for about 50$
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: NE Ohio
There have been a couple of threads on this topic in the past couple days. Just go back a couple of days. I went with poly mounts. I did only the driver's side. You will need to unbolt the alternator and move it a little bit. On the passenger's side, it looked like you had to move the AC compressor out of the way. That seemed like too much work for me. You will need a friend to pry the motor back into place to bolt everything back into place. I didn't notice much of a difference after the switch. But my Pace Setter ORY doesn't bang. So it must be working.
The alternator must be removed to get the motor mount bolt out. The compressor can be unbolted and swung aside as well.
When you remove the alternator, make SURE that you dont rip out the tiny red wire running out the top (exciter wire). You can barley see it when you're messing with things, its in a weather tight connector and plugs straight down from the top.
You will need some extensions/wobbles/u-joints to hit all the bolts where the motor mount is bolted to the block.
You will have to drill out/cut off the rivets holding the stock clamshell together to slip in the poly one (has directions).
I did it to my car with no headers/exhaust on it, much easier. I was swapping at the time so i said why not. I've heard its a pain in the *** if you have your exhaust on.
When you remove the alternator, make SURE that you dont rip out the tiny red wire running out the top (exciter wire). You can barley see it when you're messing with things, its in a weather tight connector and plugs straight down from the top.
You will need some extensions/wobbles/u-joints to hit all the bolts where the motor mount is bolted to the block.
You will have to drill out/cut off the rivets holding the stock clamshell together to slip in the poly one (has directions).
I did it to my car with no headers/exhaust on it, much easier. I was swapping at the time so i said why not. I've heard its a pain in the *** if you have your exhaust on.
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Originally Posted by ReD95LT1
That sounds complicated, im gonna be doing my pacesetters so i figured it was a good idea to put some poly motor and tranny mounts in. The whole cutting the rivets was that tuff?
I actually unbolted the passengerside from the motor, then unbolted the pedestal from the k-member and slid it back to remove the motor mount bolt. I diddnt have to mess with the a/c compressor this way.
I used a die-grinder with a cutoff wheel on the rivets. After i cut them, i only had to drill a little, then i used a punch/prybar to seperate. Not too hard at all. I put them back together with my impact so they wouldnt come apart again lol.
Its really not that hard. Make sure you have the car as high off the ground as possible, it'll make life alot easier. I would remove all the manifold bolts/dipstick tube while its on the ground because they will be easier to access.
If you place a jack under the oil pan, you can put a phone book in between for a nice padded and more even distribution of weigh
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*sigh*
Well I just started the install tonight. Doing the driver's side. Dropped the altenator - definitely watch for the flimsy red wire going to the electrical connector. Fortunately I remembered reading about this in past threads. The 18mm bolt came out easily enough.
But now I'm stuck. I have the 4 13mm bolts in view. I started with the easiest with plenty of room (top front), headers aren't a problem. But I will be damned if I can get the thing to budge. I've been trying mainly with a 13mm ratcheting wrench. I try the sockets and extensions, but can't get one to work. Those bolts are a hair too long for a regular depth sockets, but a deep socket wobbles way too much. The 1/2" drive 13 comes closest, and i can almost get it with a wobble extension, but its not straight enough and I'm very worried about snapping the bolt. Tried raising and lowering the engine a bit to make more room, but, no luck yet. I just soaked them in PB Blaster some more and am taking a dinner break.
Anyone have any good ideas? Boy I wish the search wasn't down.
Well I just started the install tonight. Doing the driver's side. Dropped the altenator - definitely watch for the flimsy red wire going to the electrical connector. Fortunately I remembered reading about this in past threads. The 18mm bolt came out easily enough.
But now I'm stuck. I have the 4 13mm bolts in view. I started with the easiest with plenty of room (top front), headers aren't a problem. But I will be damned if I can get the thing to budge. I've been trying mainly with a 13mm ratcheting wrench. I try the sockets and extensions, but can't get one to work. Those bolts are a hair too long for a regular depth sockets, but a deep socket wobbles way too much. The 1/2" drive 13 comes closest, and i can almost get it with a wobble extension, but its not straight enough and I'm very worried about snapping the bolt. Tried raising and lowering the engine a bit to make more room, but, no luck yet. I just soaked them in PB Blaster some more and am taking a dinner break.
Anyone have any good ideas? Boy I wish the search wasn't down.
on the pass. side remove the starter and ground cable, then remove the frame mount and the bolts from the block. Then you can turn it enough to remove from car. And when you install you can run the wires differently and install the long bolt backwards to tighten and for future ease. you need a 15mm socket or gearwrench to remove the frame stand. And a swivel socket or adapter with a ext. to get to the pass. side. You can get to them with out removing the A/C compressor
Got it off! You are a wise man my friend. Removing the pedastal helped open things up alot. I also disconnected and removed the steering knuckle, and that made the front 2 a breeze. The back top one was the toughest, used a swivel and a 12" extension, and when it broke loose i heard a loud snap. I suddenly became quite religious again. And someone must have been listening since fortunately the bolt came out in one piece.
I'm fortunate in that my TTS headers pretty much sweep back, so there was decent access room there. I could see someone with SLP's hanging themselves.
Enough for tonight, tomorrow ill take apart the mounts, install the new poly ones, and bolt things back up.
I'm fortunate in that my TTS headers pretty much sweep back, so there was decent access room there. I could see someone with SLP's hanging themselves.
Enough for tonight, tomorrow ill take apart the mounts, install the new poly ones, and bolt things back up.
Its the portion of the motor mount assembly that mounts to the K member. The mount itself mounts to the block, and then a large bolt passes through the pedastal and the mount to hold it all together.
Staging Lane
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 85
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From: Arizona Two blocks north of Hell
Right on, yeah when those bolts break loose it's got a kind of snap sound to it. I thought I broke off a bolt too. I think I invented a whole new vocabulary of cuss words on this job, but I also did the k-member, a-arms, shocks, headers and ORY on jack stands in my garage by myself!
Another thing too, depending on what mounts you get (prothane or energy suspensions) your going to need some extra ****. I verbally ordered prothanes from Thunder Racing because that's what kind of tranny mount I have, but they sent me Energy suspension poly mounts. Whatever as long as it works, right? I can't comment on the Prothane mounts but for the ES I used six 5/16-18 bolts and nuts with washers and lock washers for each clam shell. All were grade 8. Maybe overkill but I know it's not coming off. I think the bolts were 1". Also (which caused a second trip to Ace Hardware), the ES mount doesn't fit flush inside the pedestal mount. There is a gap. I ended up using HARDENED washers. One on each side still left a small gap, but I couldn't fit two on each side of the mount so I used 2 on one side and 1 on the other side of the mount. I had to do that to both sides of the car. (Hope that's not confusing). Make sure to get the poly mount straight inside the clam shell. Dishwashing liquid helps. I might have some pics after everything. I'll check and post if so.
Another thing too, depending on what mounts you get (prothane or energy suspensions) your going to need some extra ****. I verbally ordered prothanes from Thunder Racing because that's what kind of tranny mount I have, but they sent me Energy suspension poly mounts. Whatever as long as it works, right? I can't comment on the Prothane mounts but for the ES I used six 5/16-18 bolts and nuts with washers and lock washers for each clam shell. All were grade 8. Maybe overkill but I know it's not coming off. I think the bolts were 1". Also (which caused a second trip to Ace Hardware), the ES mount doesn't fit flush inside the pedestal mount. There is a gap. I ended up using HARDENED washers. One on each side still left a small gap, but I couldn't fit two on each side of the mount so I used 2 on one side and 1 on the other side of the mount. I had to do that to both sides of the car. (Hope that's not confusing). Make sure to get the poly mount straight inside the clam shell. Dishwashing liquid helps. I might have some pics after everything. I'll check and post if so.
Staging Lane
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Arizona Two blocks north of Hell
Oh yeah, one more thing, you'll need to cut or grind off the tabs that stick out and cover two of the bolt holes or you won't be getting a socket back on to the bolts. Heres a pic, still trying to find the one with the washers...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...76_11_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...76_11_full.jpg