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installed headers and ORY *PROBLEMS*

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Old 01-25-2006, 06:14 PM
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well.. I replaced all the fuses today.. and its still doing it..

I also upgraded the fuses.. I was told this was a bad idea.. but I got the stock ones laying around incase (worked fine anyways)

so this brings me to my MAF not getting enough voltage or the o2's are bad..

either way its alot of money
Old 01-25-2006, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SOM98TA
if it was a MAF.. wouldnt the problem still occur at WOT?

if its an o2 itd make sense itd be jumpy at low rpms.. and the loud back fire..


could I splice the rear o2's and interchange them with the front and see if I get any luck
Not nesessarily. If your MAF is the problem, it could only be occuring at its low voltage range. I would suspect that it is in fact the problem. You said you threw a code right? Only one an it said MAF low voltage? If you had an O2 sensor that was bad you would have had a code there.

Have you checked the MAF with you meter yet? Try that first. Here is another thing to notice. When you first start her up and the engine is cold, the motor will run in an open loop mode. That means the air/fuel will be dictated by a preset table of values in the PCM. Your MAF and other sensors will not be used by the PCM with regards to fuel and timing. Once the motor warms to opperating temp, the engine will switch to closed loop and the control sensors such as the MAF,MAP,O2's will take over. If it still does it when cold, it may indicate another problem such as wires, coils or plugs. Case in point, my 01 F150 was running like a bag of crap in the summer. Missing, backfiring, stumbling. Thing was, only first thing in the morning. After that first drive it was fine. I checked everything, all sensors, coil, changed plugs and wires, no fix. It wasnt till I took the coil off I noticed it was cracked on the bottom. Two fricking weeks it took me cause I had to wait till the morning to see if I got it. I replaced one sensor cause the voltage was wrong according to the Haynes manual. Turns out it was not the problem. Checking the voltage is ok to narrow down the problem but its not perfect. In my case the sensor I replaced was only 35 bucks though, so no biggie.

Here is what I suggest you do:
1) take the lid/MAF off and check to make sure the little wires are intact.
2) Buy some electronics cleaner spray and clean the MAF. Just spray it over the wires.
3) Let the car sit for a couple hours. Start it up and listen, feel. Does it run like crap before/after it gets warm or both.
4) If before, do plugs, check wires
5) Check your front O2 sensors (make sure they are plugged in correctly). Make sure your sims are plugged in.
6) Do the voltage check on your MAF with a meter.
7) Do you have any other SES lighs on? Get them scanned and reset. If you have a coil,plug or wire problem, you may get a misfire code.
8) If your Y pipe is hammering the floor, try wedging a piece of wood in there temporarily to stop it and see if it helps. It may be screwing with the super sensitive knock sensors.
9) Does the car have this problem everytime you drive it? If it only happens in the mornings you may have a moisture problems like I did on the truck. I found my problem by using a spray bottle and spritzing water on diferent parts of the motor. When it began to stutter, I know I had found my problem. This may help in the case of wires that are cracked. In the dark you may see them arcing if you spray them with water.
10) Buy a repair manual. It is very helpful with things to check and you will learn a great deal about your car in the process.

Hope this helps and you find the problem. this kind of stuff can be a bitch and really **** you off. It took me 2 ******* weeks to fix my truck this summer. It got to the point where I thought the truck was testing my resolve! I refused to take it to the dealer and eventually, I got it. You may not have this option and have to take it in even though you dont really want too.
Old 01-25-2006, 07:28 PM
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I had a similar problem, and it was because I was too lazy to pull out the plugs. I ended up cracking two. After changing them all, it ran great. I hope it works out for ya'.
Old 01-25-2006, 08:00 PM
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well the voltage is good in the MAF.. just on targer like that was said..


the MAF has been cleaned out.. it only really does it after 30 seconds of driving..

I dont think its the MAF as much anymore.. the MAF is spotless and there is complete voltage running to it..


this leads me to the o2's

it idles fine 24/7 a little rough but no biggy
Old 01-26-2006, 03:03 AM
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ok, same thing happened to me. I put long tubes on and started it up and it ran like ****, sounded like it had a miss and the engine would jerk as i was watching it, then it would go boooooom like a gunshot out of the right bank. I looked and double checked everything, wires, plugs, ect......... I was talking to a friend and he said that if a car backfires through the exhaust then it is a electricle problem. If it backfires through the carb, t/b, ect.... it is mechanicle. Well i went and took a nap and as i was laying there it dawned on me that i took the right valve cover off as well and took the coil packs and unhooked them and just pushed the coil pack harness up out of the way. When i rehooked it back up somehow i got it turned around. I went back out and unplugged them all and swapped it back around and it fired right up and purs like a kitten. That might be worth checking, sorry for the long post.
Old 01-27-2006, 09:51 PM
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sounds crazy...but i had a banging ypipe..had it fixed so it wouldnt bang anymore..and car picked right up wre it left off...no joke..it obviously was pulling my timing..
Old 06-05-2006, 01:29 PM
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So you plugged the coil harnes in backwards? You plugged what should have gone into #2 actually into #8 etc? I am wondering if this is my problem. I pulled both sides off a few weeks ago to put knew header gaskets in and put locking header bolts. I have narrowed it down to either a bad coil, o2 sensor wiring or bad o2 sensor.
Old 06-07-2006, 05:50 PM
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I have this exact same problem after a header - ory install. I have driven the car a couple hundred miles though before it started and my y-pipe never banged once. I did reuse the original O2's which now have 89,000 on them, I changed the plugs though. There was NO hard driving over (5000 rpm) or missed shifts, I know this isn't mechanical.

Does what sounds like a miss, a backfire, and stumbling/surging under 2000 sound like O2's? If I keep it over 2000 by slipping the clutch or keeping it in a lower gear than normal, it's fine.

HELP!!
Old 06-07-2006, 07:52 PM
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o2s baby! i bet a pepsi i am right.




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