installed headers and ORY *PROBLEMS*
installed headers and ORY *PROBLEMS* well I installed mac mids.. with there ORY with a bullet muffler at the end..
its loud as fawk.. but actually sounds pretty good..
but its running like ***.. its hesitating below 2k.. horrible backfire if I try to load the throttle in a higher gear.. like say if I'm at like 1600rpm in 5th gear and I give it like a 1/3 throttle it will stumble/hesitate and pop horribly..
the Y pipe is banging a little bit too..
can somebody give me any ideas on how to get the car running good?
its loud as fawk.. but actually sounds pretty good..
but its running like ***.. its hesitating below 2k.. horrible backfire if I try to load the throttle in a higher gear.. like say if I'm at like 1600rpm in 5th gear and I give it like a 1/3 throttle it will stumble/hesitate and pop horribly..
the Y pipe is banging a little bit too..
can somebody give me any ideas on how to get the car running good?
Kill it and restart it a few times. Drive it a few times. It should get alot better. After kooks headers with catted y, my buddies car ran like HELL. Idled at like 600rpms and would barley run. After a few restarts, it was perfect.
If it doesnt, go get a tune. Get it from a place that does retunes for free or cheap and you'll be set for when you put that big camshaft in it
If it doesnt, go get a tune. Get it from a place that does retunes for free or cheap and you'll be set for when you put that big camshaft in it
hm.. it has been getting a little bit better.. but I think that this is more then just the ECU relearning ..
it stumbles like crazy and sounds like a gunshot underload or below 1500rpms...
would the Y pipe banging cause this?
could I switch around my rear o2's with my front o2's?
I have Zero money.. but I'm mechanically inclined and have plenty of time to track this down..
also deleted EGR & AIR...
I've only driven the car a total of maybe 40 miles.. since the install
it stumbles like crazy and sounds like a gunshot underload or below 1500rpms...
would the Y pipe banging cause this?
could I switch around my rear o2's with my front o2's?
I have Zero money.. but I'm mechanically inclined and have plenty of time to track this down..
also deleted EGR & AIR...
I've only driven the car a total of maybe 40 miles.. since the install
Sure the sparkplugs/wires are seated good? Got the hole in the intake sealed up good?
What did you gap the plugs at? Did you check all the fuses? I pulled my heads and put them back on. When i started it for the first time, it idled fine but stumbled like HELL. Turned out the while passenger side bank was getting no fire thanks to a blown fuse. Its free, might want to check it out.
What did you gap the plugs at? Did you check all the fuses? I pulled my heads and put them back on. When i started it for the first time, it idled fine but stumbled like HELL. Turned out the while passenger side bank was getting no fire thanks to a blown fuse. Its free, might want to check it out.
hm... could you explain the fuse deal to me?
I'm not too knowledgable with LS1's yet.. I just let the plugs be.. they looked fine.. the ones that were in there that is..
we removed 2 plugs.. left the others in.. tomorow I'm gona pull them and re install it.. and see if there in there right.. I'm sure the wires are seated right..
so you dont think the Y pipe banging is causing this? I thought if the computer detected a knock or something its gona pull timing and make it run like hell?
I removed the passenger side valve cover too.. I unhooked the battery earlier too.. didnt really make a difference.. it doesnt do it everytime either.. it stumbles like almost every other time.. or when it feels like it.. its frustrating..
under WOT none of this occurs..
I'm not too knowledgable with LS1's yet.. I just let the plugs be.. they looked fine.. the ones that were in there that is..
we removed 2 plugs.. left the others in.. tomorow I'm gona pull them and re install it.. and see if there in there right.. I'm sure the wires are seated right..
so you dont think the Y pipe banging is causing this? I thought if the computer detected a knock or something its gona pull timing and make it run like hell?
I removed the passenger side valve cover too.. I unhooked the battery earlier too.. didnt really make a difference.. it doesnt do it everytime either.. it stumbles like almost every other time.. or when it feels like it.. its frustrating..
under WOT none of this occurs..
okay I went to discount auto.. got the car scanned..
low voltage to MAF.. or VAF .. something like that..
well I went and cleaned out my MAF and its still doing it..
what can I do?
low voltage to MAF.. or VAF .. something like that..
well I went and cleaned out my MAF and its still doing it..
what can I do?
can you somebody help me with the fuse deal?
it feels like it could be electrical..
I'm swapping out all my sparkplugs tomorow/next day.. but I want to know about this fuse deal!!!!
HELP ME OUT ASAP!!! this is my daily driver
it feels like it could be electrical..
I'm swapping out all my sparkplugs tomorow/next day.. but I want to know about this fuse deal!!!!
HELP ME OUT ASAP!!! this is my daily driver
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Your MAF might be screwed. If it is it could be affecting how your motor is running. The Y pipe banging might be causing knock retard too. 98's for some reason have utra senstive knock sensors. We had to desenstize ours when myself and my buddy did headers on our 98's. You can do this with HP tuners if you know someone that has it. Also, if you have HP tuners, you can run your car in speed density mode which will eliminate the MAF from the equation. If it runs good, you know the MAF is bad. Do a search for Mufflex Hanger here. You can use that to elimiate your banging. Check for vacuume leaks too. This could be causing your shitty idle as well.
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Yea my mac y-pipe used to bang the floor board pretty bad but eventually it stopped due to the y-pipe being bent in from the banging, so I got a custom y-pipe built and it never hit again. I bought a brand new mufflex bump-stop but never installed it as I chose to get a new y-pipe so if your interested let me know. Def check all the plugs and wires to make sure they are in good, and then I guess check all the fuses under the hood, see if any are blown.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
The MAF sensor detects the volume of air that you engine is pulling in while running. It relays this info to the PCM by outputing a voltage to the PCM, that is proportional to the volume of incoming air. Your PCM uses this signal as well as those from other sensors to control fuel mixture and timing. I believe what this code is telling you is that the output signal is too low. This would explain the bad idle and low RPM stumbling. Code 48 is the code for a faulty MAF sensor. According to the Haynes manual, a quick check is to tap the flat part of the sensor body with a screwdriver handle while the motor is running. If it stumbles or stalls, the sensor is faulty.
Here is a check you can do with a multimeter. With the key in the run position and the motor not running, probe the black/white (ground) wire, and the yellow (signal) wire. There should be between 4-6 volts present. Next, check the ground wire and the pink (supply) wire. There should be 12 volts there.
If it looks ok and it still runs like crap, you may have to hit the dealer. This test comes straight out of the haynes manual.
Hope this helps man.
Here is a check you can do with a multimeter. With the key in the run position and the motor not running, probe the black/white (ground) wire, and the yellow (signal) wire. There should be between 4-6 volts present. Next, check the ground wire and the pink (supply) wire. There should be 12 volts there.
If it looks ok and it still runs like crap, you may have to hit the dealer. This test comes straight out of the haynes manual.
Hope this helps man.
anybody local have HP tuners..
I just had the engine running.. knocked on the MAF...
I guess tomorow I'm checking the wires that run to the maf... if that comes out to the problem.. how could I fix it?
if thats not the problem... any other ideas?
I just had the engine running.. knocked on the MAF...
I guess tomorow I'm checking the wires that run to the maf... if that comes out to the problem.. how could I fix it?
if thats not the problem... any other ideas?
how do I tell if the plugs are bad? I took off all the plugs got under them.. looked at em all.. nohting looked crack.. just average wear & tire..
hmm. I'm running out of ideas here
hmm. I'm running out of ideas here
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Do you know anyone in your area with another F body? If so you can try switching MAFs and seeing if it helps. When did you install your lid? If it was recently, maybe you hit one of the wires when you were trying to get it out of the stock lid. Other than scanning it, there is no sure fire way of knowing if its screwed as far as I know. MAFs are expensive so if you dont know for sure its probably not a good idea to just go buy a new one. As far as fuses, you need to either grab a repair manual or the wiring diagrams from the local parts store.
Originally Posted by 00Z28 Camaro
o2's 
Did you make sure you plugged all the o2's back in (if its an ORY dont plug the rear ones back in, if you have o2 sims plug those in, if not you'll just throw a code, but it wont be a big deal). Make sure you didnt plug the wrong o2 wires in, i.e. running the wire for the rear o2's to the front ones, although the o2 sensors themselves are interchangeable, the wiring is not. I'd check that, and make sure you have those plugged in, if that doesnt work and your MAF is reading low voltage one of the sensors/resistors in the MAF is messed up and you will need to buy a whole new maf.
if it was a MAF.. wouldnt the problem still occur at WOT?
if its an o2 itd make sense itd be jumpy at low rpms.. and the loud back fire..
could I splice the rear o2's and interchange them with the front and see if I get any luck
if its an o2 itd make sense itd be jumpy at low rpms.. and the loud back fire..
could I splice the rear o2's and interchange them with the front and see if I get any luck