Tightening down header bolts ?
Tightening down header bolts ? I have heard of guys torqing the header bolts down the wrong way and warping the flanges on the headers. Is there a correct way to bolt the headers on ? I bought these used from a guy so they do not come with any instructions, and the search isnt working correctly.
1) Is there a correct way to torque the header bolt's ?
2) Should i reuse my exhats manifold gasket's ? Or buy new one's ?
3) Should i buy new bolt's ? Or reuse my stock one's ?
4) Are the bolts that come in header kits the same length as the stock exhaust manifold bolts ?
5) What is the average time it take's to remove stoxk exhaust and install long tubes ?
Thank you !
1) Is there a correct way to torque the header bolt's ?
2) Should i reuse my exhats manifold gasket's ? Or buy new one's ?
3) Should i buy new bolt's ? Or reuse my stock one's ?
4) Are the bolts that come in header kits the same length as the stock exhaust manifold bolts ?
5) What is the average time it take's to remove stoxk exhaust and install long tubes ?
Thank you !
Last edited by minesfaster; Feb 3, 2006 at 06:49 AM. Reason: .
1. I would thread them all in and then torque the inside ones and work your way out. It probably doesn't make a difference though.
2. If have you have a high mileage car then get a new set of stockers. I had around 30k on the clock and my stock gaskets were just fine.
3. I'd get new ones. The stockers are really rusty.
4. yeah..give or take.
5. 5-6 hours given everything is in place.
2. If have you have a high mileage car then get a new set of stockers. I had around 30k on the clock and my stock gaskets were just fine.
3. I'd get new ones. The stockers are really rusty.
4. yeah..give or take.
5. 5-6 hours given everything is in place.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,651
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Torque specs are,
First pass: 11 lb/ft
Second pass: 18 lb/ft
The manual recommends to torque the bolts in this order: 6-3-1-2-4-5.
FWIW, I did not use a TQ wrench on mine and it was fine, never leaked year after year.
First pass: 11 lb/ft
Second pass: 18 lb/ft
The manual recommends to torque the bolts in this order: 6-3-1-2-4-5.
FWIW, I did not use a TQ wrench on mine and it was fine, never leaked year after year.
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Use antiseize on the bolts tighen from inside out they do not need to be real tight..(18 lbs) ..the last thing you want to do is strip them..GM gasket is the best to use
Originally Posted by H8 LUZN
My Kooks came with gaskets... they look more like paper than the stock metal ones but look like they should stop leaks better
The paper ones are crap the metal GM gaskets are much better for a street car..If it is a real race car where it is going to torn down and put back tegether often the paper will be ok..but for street use where you put them on and leave them one for a long time the GM gaskets are hard to beat.. the paper will deteriorate much faster then the metal..
The hooker super comp. headers have a 5/16" flange, and your OEM header bolts have 1-1/8" of thread. That gives your roughly 1/4", no worries. You can go out and buy a new set, like I did. Only difference was that the stock ones are dark grey, my new ones are polished.
Also, stick with the GM gaskets. I swapped mine at 20k and they were almost new aside of the rust from the manifold. Could've reused them, but it wouldnt be the total experience if I had polished headers, bolted down by polished bolts, with some rusty gaskets. Call it peace of mind. Dont forget to retorque after some heat cycles.
Also, stick with the GM gaskets. I swapped mine at 20k and they were almost new aside of the rust from the manifold. Could've reused them, but it wouldnt be the total experience if I had polished headers, bolted down by polished bolts, with some rusty gaskets. Call it peace of mind. Dont forget to retorque after some heat cycles.
