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Broken intake manifold stud

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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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Default Broken intake manifold stud

So my oh-so-smart roommate was tightening the driver's side intake bolts on my new LS6, and he broke two in the heads. The threaded part snapped off in the head- any suggestions on how I can get it out?
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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You might be able to drill it out.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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If there's any way at all to drill through the center of the bolt, you might then run a left-hand tap through that hole and unscrew it out of the head. But that's VERY risky... of course, anything's gonna be risky in your case. Hate to say, but it might come down to pulling the head and taking it to a shop.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ric
If there's any way at all to drill through the center of the bolt, you might then run a left-hand tap through that hole and unscrew it out of the head. But that's VERY risky... of course, anything's gonna be risky in your case. Hate to say, but it might come down to pulling the head and taking it to a shop.
Left handed tap is un-needed.

You can try to drill it and use an ease-out. It's almost like a left handed drill bit if you've never seen one. And HOW in the hell did he break off TWO of them?

If there is any hanging out, you might be able to use some channel-locks and remove them. If all else fails, you could get a machine shop guy to see about getting it out w/out removing the heads.

Drilling and tapping a little bigger is also an option, as is trying to run it minus 2 bolts if you are fed up with it!
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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Yeah, I'm driving without the two right now. No coolant leaks, no vacuum leaks, no problem!
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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had the same problem when I was putting mine on but I did it on the last bolt I put in. Talk to a machine shop in town and showed him what had happened he said it would be pretty easy to fix and leave it at the shop and he could have in done in a day or two. Well didn't have the time to leave the car there so place the tinyest bit of JB weld on the stud and put it in place till I am ready to pull the intake back off. Guy at the shop said It would probably be okay as long as I wasn't throwing a crazy shot of NOS at it . Ran it at the dyno took it up to 6800 rpms with no problem, oulled like a beast and no leaks. would suggest fixing it ASAP though. I am planning on fixing mine as soon as I get a break from work.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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Blur, I'm sure the EZ-out would work probably fit the bill nicely. I personaly have never been able to get one freakin bolt out with one, hence the left-hand tap idea... just seems like it'd be more positively engaged.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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If you do go after it with a drill or easyout, be careful not to snap off the bit! Go straight at it, maintaining a good angle, take your time, let the bit do the work etc..... And don't let your friend do the drilling!
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:37 PM
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gotta be careful with them intake manifold bolts, i broke the coolant line bolt off but was able to get a gator grip on it to loosen it up a little bit and then took the pliers to it. the bolts do not require that much pressure at all too seal so id go to snug on the first pass and then maybe another quarter turn on the second.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ric
Blur, I'm sure the EZ-out would work probably fit the bill nicely. I personaly have never been able to get one freakin bolt out with one, hence the left-hand tap idea... just seems like it'd be more positively engaged.
I've gotten valve cover bolts out of my driverside head with an ease-out, those are about the same size as the maifold bolts. Left handed tap would be more expensive, and i don't think they are made out of quite as strong a material as an ease-out. Plus you would have to run it in pretty far to have the bigger teeth on the tap start grabbing.

You will need a center punch, and a STEADY hand with the drill. Try to use the biggest ease-out/drill bit that you possibly can without hitting the existing threads. Try and get it as parallel to the bolt as you can, and as close to the center as possible. If the drill bit runs over and hits the threads, it gets ummmm, complicated.

It's also alright to tap on the ease-out with a hammer/wrench slightly to get the teeth biting inside the hole before you start backing it out.



I used an ease-out to remove my broken off dipstick tube from my block! Ever since then, i take an ease-out to bed with me every night!
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Ever since then, i take an ease-out to bed with me every night!
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 05:34 AM
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I hate easy outs.. Never got one to work. Ive busted an easy out lol... That required taking the head off to get that **** out... Easiest way it a left handed drill bit, the torque of the drill will back that baby out.. Has to be 90 degree. or something small in such a tight space... It is going to be VERY hard to drill a straight hole with the head on.. but it CAN BE DONE!!!
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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happened to me a few months ago, craftsman has some drill bits that worked great for me. one side of the bit is a reverse drill bit and the other side is and easy out. took me about 2 min to get the bolt out.
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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And while you're out buying an easy out or reverse drill bit, buy a torque wrench and show your roommate how to use it. Geez.
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pontiacfireTAWS6
I hate easy outs.. Never got one to work. Ive busted an easy out lol... That required taking the head off to get that **** out... Easiest way it a left handed drill bit, the torque of the drill will back that baby out.. Has to be 90 degree. or something small in such a tight space... It is going to be VERY hard to drill a straight hole with the head on.. but it CAN BE DONE!!!
I would almost tell you to take the head out if you absolutely 100% can't get dead on with the bolt.
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