Well after 6 months of saving i got them and they finally came today. I am going to get a friend to help me install them. And tips, procedures, anything! and...
1)it came with 3 band clamps. I have a 3" intermediate. are all the clamps supposed to be used or just the one that fits your intermediate pipe??
2) the y pipe i was told isnt supposed to be sodered just put together (i know sp is wrong)
3)where did you guys tie the sims + wires??? and even though you need them with cats, do the cats work.
4)the EGR blockoff. I ordered the 01-02's, so i dont need a plate otherwise one would have came with them right?. i just have the outlet for the egr with what looks like a little ball stick in it

---anything else i missed thats more than just unbolting and bolting that would cause damage??? First install, well i did do my lid MAF <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> , well and my ripper all alone. So please (as you can tell i am a little anxious and needey but we all must learn from others <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ha!

<small>[ May 21, 2002, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: R U A LS1 ]</small>

 

1. There should be two 2.5" band clamps, and one 3" band clamp. The three inch band clamp will connect the 3" end of the y pipe to your 3" I pipe. The 2.5" band clamps will connect the pipes with the 90 degree bends in them to the "Y" shaped part that is the end of the Y pipe, which connects to your I pipe.

2. You will want to get either some aluminum tape, or some muffler repair tape. When you put the cats or off road pipes on you will want to put some tape over the joint, then clamp it down to prevent leaks. You will do the same for the 3 band clamp connections - apply the tape around the connection, then clamp it down. When you are done go drive for 10 mins, come back and tighten them. Do this 2-3 times so you get a proper seal with no leaks.

3. The sims and wires will hang down a bit. With the muffler repair tape I bought, it came with some 'mechanics wire' or muffler wire. Its basically just some thin, strong, metal wire. I tied a loop around the sims, then found a bolt holding a heat shield or something in that general area, unbolted it, looped the wire around the bolt, then tightened it down. This holds the sims up near the bottom of the car and doesn't let them hang down.

4. I guess that is blocked off, I have EGR on mine, if you can blow through the hole, it isnt blocked off. The 01+ headers from FLP should come with the EGR disabled/blocked off.

Be carefull when you put the bolts back in with the headers. I got my bolt near #6 plug in and it was a defective bolt, got about half way into the head and then just snapped off - this was just turning it with a small socket wrench, had no force into it at all..weird ****. Just take your time and make sure you have a friend to help. The higher you have the car the better. I think you should put the off road pipes in first then start it up because it sounds badass <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Good luck on the install. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
-dan

<small>[ May 20, 2002, 08:23 PM: Message edited by: dan98z ]</small>

 

DAN,
thanks that was a good thorough reply. Yeah, i just saw a picture with the band clamps on the y pipe. Now, is that tape on them really necassary???
before i got them ive always read crap about all this leaking nonsence at the OR pipe/cats. Does everyone do the tape to stop this?, and stop it at the y pipe too? ....so where do i get it?

 

Get the aluminum tape at Home Depot, its also called A/C tape, should be in the same aisle as the heating ducts. I only put mine over the offroad pipes. I dont really see how it could leak out of the Y with those band clamps. But I guess anything is possible. I have NO leaks on my exhaust, although I did without the tape from my offroads. I got my car dynoed already after the FLP's, see below. Good Luck, youll love em'.

Pete

<small>[ May 20, 2002, 09:03 PM: Message edited by: I8COBRA ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by I8COBRA:
<strong>Get the aluminum tape at Home Depot, its also called A/C tape, should be in the same aisle as the heating ducts. I only put mine over the offroad pipes. I dont really see how it could leak out of the Y with those band clamps. But I guess anything is possible. I have NO leaks on my exhaust, although I did without the tape from my offroads. I got my car dynoed already after the FLP's, see below. Good Luck, youll love em'.

Pete</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">do those band clamps fit tight when bolted tight??? because just by putting them on now....... looking at them, cleaning them, taking pictur...... urrr uh sorry just daydreaming, im anxious, <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> , but when i slip them on theyre about a centimeter (about) off the pipe

 

I would`nt use the tape think it is not nessery these are the same clamps they use on a factory exaust for a viper and thats all they use

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by R U A LS1:
<strong>do those band clamps fit tight when bolted tight??? because just by putting them on now....... looking at them, cleaning them, taking pictur...... urrr uh sorry just daydreaming, im anxious, <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> , but when i slip them on theyre about a centimeter (about) off the pipe</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">As I recall, there were 2 different sizes for the clamps that fit on the off road pipes. Check if both ends of the pipe are the same circumfrence. You can trace them on paper then see if they are equal. I recall that one was about a 1/2" larger in circumfrence..I might be wrong though. Check it out before ya install em. Im pretty sure I remember that the end of the off road pipe that connects to the 90 degree bent pipes of the Y pipe is larger in circumfrence than the end that connects to the header collector. You would use the larger clamps on the y pipe end, and the smaller circumfrence clamps on the front at the header collectors.
-dan

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by dan98z:
<strong>[QUOTE]As I recall, there were 2 different sizes for the clamps that fit on the off road pipes. Check if both ends of the pipe are the same circumfrence. You can trace them on paper then see if they are equal. I recall that one was about a 1/2" larger in circumfrence..I might be wrong though. Check it out before ya install em. Im pretty sure I remember that the end of the off road pipe that connects to the 90 degree bent pipes of the Y pipe is larger in circumfrence than the end that connects to the header collector. You would use the larger clamps on the y pipe end, and the smaller circumfrence clamps on the front at the header collectors.
-dan</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually the larger clamp goes by the collector.

Also about the aluminum tape, I dont care what Vipers use, my exhaust was leaking, now its not <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by I8COBRA:
[QBActually the larger clamp goes by the collector.

Also about the aluminum tape, I dont care what Vipers use, my exhaust was leaking, now its not <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I could of sworn it was at the back, been a while since Ive installed a set, your prolly right.

As for it being used on vipers...ive heard everything from vipers, turbo diesel trucks, and aircrafts using this clamp. I tried to locate some from the dealer of the turbo truck, and they had no clue wtf I was talking about. I think they are just some clamps FLP sells. They WILL leak.. put the tape on them and they dont leak. I havent had a leak for 6 months since the tape went on.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by dan98z:
<strong>
2. You will want to get either some aluminum tape, or some muffler repair tape. When you put the cats or off road pipes on you will want to put some tape over the joint, then clamp it down to prevent leaks. You will do the same for the 3 band clamp connections - apply the tape around the connection, then clamp it down. When you are done go drive for 10 mins, come back and tighten them. Do this 2-3 times so you get a proper seal with no leaks.

Be carefull when you put the bolts back in with the headers. I got my bolt near #6 plug in and it was a defective bolt, got about half way into the head and then just snapped off - this was just turning it with a small socket wrench, had no force into it at all..weird ****. Just take your time and make sure you have a friend to help. The higher you have the car the better. I think you should put the off road pipes in first then start it up because it sounds badass <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Good luck on the install. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
-dan</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With the band clamps, it might help you to put
anti-sieze all over the inner surface and lube
the screw. Friction trades against radial
compression. That's the big reason why you can
retighten after running (vibe). Less friction,
you get to spend your finite screw force on
the intended result.

If the header bolts are that cheesy, you might
oughtta go buy some good quality ones. Maybe
the kind that lock, since getting at them to
re-dog 'em down is going to be a nuisance.
At least get something that purports to be a
good quality fastener, not a grab-bag one.

If you are going to use the regular ones, the
interference problem suggests maybe you want to
run them through a die to clean the threads.
Chromed fasteners especially have given me
grief before, they start with a bolt that's
right on and then add a few mils of plating,
hard, that makes it love to bind up. Probably
not enough working room to chase the head threads
with a bottoming tap, but that'd be extra smooth.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jimmyblue:
<strong>
If the header bolts are that cheesy, you might
oughtta go buy some good quality ones. Maybe
the kind that lock, since getting at them to
re-dog 'em down is going to be a nuisance.
At least get something that purports to be a
good quality fastener, not a grab-bag one.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats what I thought, so I bought stage 8 bolts. The stage 8 bolt is the one that was defective. I thought they were supposed to be the superior bolts out of almost everything. All of the others were great, just one snapped in half like nothing. When I do my H/C/I install in august im going to have stage 8's on there again, but ill check each bolt 110% before it goes anywhere near my car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-dan

 

RUALS1:

Did you already pick up a starter bolt/with washers for your V-clamps "makes life much easier with these"-"helps to draw those clamps together

Oh, I might be wrong, but I believe that you will need a BMR or SLP (which ever fits best) drive shaft loop/Edit-Tunnel brace to replace the original brace. The original brace didn't fit when I put my FLP Y-pipe through it. Therefore, I had to buy an aftermarket brace. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
As posted by another "you can use the old brace but use spacers/longer bolts if you want

Oh, thanks Dan98Z-I think you helped me out with my install "I was the one with the spark plug issue" thanks--car runs/sounds great <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

<small>[ May 22, 2002, 12:57 PM: Message edited by: BLK:WS6&BLK:SS ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BLK:WS6&BLK:SS:
<strong>RUALS1:

Did you already pick up a starter bolt/with washers for your V-clamps "makes life much easier with these"-"helps to draw those clamps together

Oh, I might be wrong, but I believe that you will need a BMR or SLP (which ever fits best) drive shaft loop/exhaust brace to replace the original brace. The original brace didn't fit when I put my FLP Y-pipe through it. Therefore, I had to buy an aftermarket brace. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Oh, thanks Dan98Z-I think you helped me out with my install "I was the one with the spark plug issue" thanks--car runs/sounds great <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I dont think so. Can someone verify this.

So looks like im out a lift my friend bummed out on me (jealous <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> ) nah he had a baseball game to attend. But, Since there is no site with a complete step by crucial step so to speak install, 1) what would be the absolute first thing i do to help me out. Looks like ill be getting out with my dad a year before college to do the install <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> . This means im out a lift and need to do it on my ramps. but also, is this possible, i heard guys did this, only about 1 more hour, and the FLPs make them that much more easier. 2)whta tool do i need to get to the header bolts, and y pipe off 3)what do i torque the spark plugs, header bolts, and coil pack harness to after i take them off.

<small>[ May 21, 2002, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: R U A LS1 ]</small>

 

TTT

 

please. anyone? im getting desperate. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

There is some truth to that. The same thing happened on mine. I call it the G-load brace but I don't know if that's the right term.
Anyway, we had to take it off and band the hell out if it and it still wouldn't clear the y-pipe. So we used some washers and a longer bolt to make it hang lower. It was never a great set up and once I had to add a couple more washers because the pipe started hitting it.
I think the BMR exhaust brace would be a good idea. That's what I'm going to try on my new 2002 Z28 if I can get my '99 FLPs fixed up.

Derrick

 

Here ya go:
http://www.ls1speed.com/oldcatalog.cfm
It's called a tunnel brace. It might be worth it?

Derrick