Quick help on removing intake
yea, well i doubt i can get it that far even with the trans tube i nthe way, see pics, ill do the cruise control as well.
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Also I would disconnect the fuel rail with a disconnect tool, they are like 4 bucks, make sure you depressurize the fuel system via the shrader valve, that should be it, really I could not get the 4 rearmost bolts the whole way out, so I taped all of them up, there are pins made of plastic that sets the mainfold to the heads, so you have to lift up, then forward. you should be good take your time
yea, i alreayd hva e 9 of the bolts undone, front 6 are out. However i jsut looked, that trans tube isnt buding, ill need to unscrew it so i can swing it aside, wheres the bolt for it?, i think ill jsut take my fuel rails off altogether and not need to worry about the fuel lines.
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Ok, ill look for the bolt to the tube, i jsut need to unscrew it a little i like to swing it out of the way. Input of moving this tube? anyone?
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Ok, ill look for the bolt to the tube, i jsut need to unscrew it a little i like to swing it out of the way. Input of moving this tube? anyone?
I like to take a small flathead and stick in in side of the metal retainer clip that holds the injector plugs on. Once you pop one side loose, you can kind of twist it around and it will let go. Right after you pop the plug off, snap the metal part back the way it was so it won't fall off. You can simply click them back on with the clips in place like they are locked.
The small tube on the back that points toward the passenger side is used to open and close the trap door in the A/C system when you switch from vent to floor to defrost.
I always just yank the plastic thing clean out of the brake booster like you have done. Put a little WD-40 on it and it pops back in pretty easy.
When you get ready to lift it out, trace the booster line around the back and you will feel the oil pressure sending unit trapped between it and the manifold. You will need to lift the back of the manifold up so the booster line clears it.
I would also suggest you unplug the electrical connector on the MAP sensor instead of pulling it out of the manifold.
Yank the tranny tube to the side, I had to fight with it and if its unbolted its likely to come out of the tranny like mine did which is a bitch to get back in. Then tape up those four bolts in the back and lift up and pull it out just enough to reach back there and disconnect the MAP sensor and another small tube. Try and be careful not to break the Oil pressure switch but if you do don't sweat it most people do, just a trip to the dealership and parts store to get the special socket and your good.
yea well Jeff, i did it, lol. Oil Pressure Sending Unit busted. Heres a pic.
Anyway.... is the dealership the only place to go to get this part? Or will autozone or Murray's carry it? If they dont then do i have to specifically go to the Pontiac dealership or will the chevy work? Also what socket do i need? Also what will the FPSU cost me, and the socket? Thanks!
Anyway.... is the dealership the only place to go to get this part? Or will autozone or Murray's carry it? If they dont then do i have to specifically go to the Pontiac dealership or will the chevy work? Also what socket do i need? Also what will the FPSU cost me, and the socket? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Superman09
yea well Jeff, i did it, lol. Oil Pressure Sending Unit busted. Heres a pic.
Anyway.... is the dealership the only place to go to get this part? Or will autozone or Murray's carry it? If they dont then do i have to specifically go to the Pontiac dealership or will the chevy work? Also what socket do i need? Also what will the FPSU cost me, and the socket? Thanks!
Anyway.... is the dealership the only place to go to get this part? Or will autozone or Murray's carry it? If they dont then do i have to specifically go to the Pontiac dealership or will the chevy work? Also what socket do i need? Also what will the FPSU cost me, and the socket? Thanks!
I would go to the stealership for the sending unit (chevy will work, just have them look it up for a 99 z28 or something), then take that bitch to the parts house where you can get the special socket needed for it. Match up the socket with the new one and go yank it.
When you put it back together, leave the socket on the sending unit and remove it after the intake is in place and the brake booster hose has made it by, then just slip it over the top.
haha yep, right on. actually i was in a hurry to get it shippd out before 5:00, lol. and i had it all off and i kept giving more pull to get it off totally forgetting about the unit, lol. Then the next morning i remembered and went to see if i broke it. and cure enough i did. lol. So do i use this socket to get my broken one out? Or did my break all the way out already or what? And what will the tool cost and unit?
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ok, i jsut pulled the trans tube to the left, its back in its normal position now.... i think, lol. well jsut when your trying to get to the bolt, tug on it to the left until there enough room, then it will force its way back to place. Will the tool get all that little of the unit i have left? Thanks
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bump it up
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Yeah it happens 
the dealership was the only place that has the unit and you need teh special socket too. Should run you about $40-45 all together. I have a 98 and those are different from teh other years so you shouldn't have a problem finding one quickly. Good luck getting it back together and make sure to get pics when it gets back.
the dealership was the only place that has the unit and you need teh special socket too. Should run you about $40-45 all together. I have a 98 and those are different from teh other years so you shouldn't have a problem finding one quickly. Good luck getting it back together and make sure to get pics when it gets back. 
I regualr socket will get the rest of the sending unit out. don't fel bad about breaking that, I did it to mine when I pulled the intake... I think about 99% of people do it on the first try, I almost think it is meant to break like that.
ok, thanks for the help fellas. Should have the parts back in about a week. Then i'll shoot some pics for ya. It should be pretty badass lookin when all's said and done! Also, any idea what size socket is needed to pull off the rest of the sensor?
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Also, removing air and getting block off plates will jsut throw a code correct? It won't harm the performance at all will it?
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Nope AIR shouldn't do anything, I think you can even pull the fuse for it so it doesn't turn on on startup if you don't have tuning software. As for the socket size its big, something like 28 I think but you'll need the special socket to put it back on so might as well go out and get it now.
oops, i meant EGR, lol. Air will prolly stay on, im jsut going to take off EGR to clear up the bay a little better.
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