z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I am also having this problem. Banging under the drivers seat has gotten progressively worse. Its when I accellerate from medium to hard, and it bangs from 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Very annoying as I can't hear my engine anymore, just banging.

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I finally finished reinstalling the motor/tranny/rear axle in my car and had the same issues with the new Kooks header/stainless catted y-pipe setup. I had to trim at least 3/4" from the drivers side pipe where it meets the y. I drove the drivers side at least 2 1/2" inches on the header, and the drivers side at least 1 1/2" on the header. I also had to cut two slits in the pipe so it would spread enough to slide on the header. And the outlet of the y where it joins with the catback is still hitting on the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel. Its also banging on the flattened spot on the drivers side pipe. Pulling it all back out and trying to get everything fixed right now isn't an option. I only get to drive the car ~4 months this year and don't want it down another month waiting for parts. So I'm just going to tuck some industrial high temp fiberglass type insulation in where its touching and hopefully that'll be good enough for this year. I'm just worried about the leverage its going to put on the header bolts...

I'm not trying to hammer on Kooks at all, just letting people know my experiences too.
The weld quality is great, and the headers are awesome, its just that the stainless is harder to tweak to make fit than other metals...

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

You need to trim some more off where the y-pipe meets together in the tunnel. then you can slide the driver side header on further which will bring the y-pipe to i-pipe junction center. It shouldn"t touch the tunnel after this. As far as the driver side banging: I got it right where I wanted it ONCE. As soon as swapped catbacks the problem came back.

Here"s how I got it right the first time:

1. Loosen up all the clamps on the y-pipe.
2. Stick a crowbar between the y-pipe and floorboard and wrench down to pull the pipe away from the floor.
3. Have a buddy jam a piece of wood in between.
4. Pull the crowbar out and place a floor jack right under where the y-pipe connects together making sure you still have enough access to tighten the clamp in there.
5. Raise the jack slowly until the y-pipe starts to give moderate resistance.
6. Tighten ALL of the clamps on the y-pipe.
7. Lower jack and using the crowbar again remove the piece of wood.
8. Now go drive around and see if it worked.

AK's WS6

It seems most aftermarket Y's never seem to fit right and for what they cost vs having one fabbed up right at an exahust shop it's a wonder why people buy mass produced Y's.

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...st+Flex+Tubing

Here"s another solution but in 3" of course. Put this pipe right off the driver side header into the y. Idea courtesy of Sean at CARS in Waterford.

AK's WS6

Not a bad idea!! I was at CARS last weekend and met Sean for the 1st time, he's a real nice guy and know his ****!!

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

Wouldn't work for me as I have no room with the magnaflow cats on there. The front of the cat is what slides over the header.

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

There is also a company that makes these to order in custom sizes. Maybe some kind of bellow like the silicone slp intake belows (but braided steel of course) would work for the catted guys as well. I"ll look into this. Maybe I can get a hold of a company and have 10 or 20 made. If it"s okay with the mods I could sell them here for what I paid for them plus shipping.

97 Z Me Go

iTrader: (11)

Mine still Bangs on the passanger side. For the money I payed i got screwed i think. They should of just sent me another header coated and i would of been happy.
Kyle

Z28XTC

iTrader: (5)

If you have a ory can you get same problem?

Z28XTC

iTrader: (5)

Can this problem still happen with a ORY?

97 Z Me Go

iTrader: (11)

I have an off road Y. It bangs

Kyle

Louie83

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't freak out about it.

Kooks are known for fitting like gloves. They are human though, and the once in a blue moon not-perfect set will happen. I constantly hear people on here raving about how great their Kooks set-up fits, which is why they are at the top of my list for when I do shell out the cash.

BLK02TA

iTrader: (11)

So they didnt replace them or anything? What happend?

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

+1 for sure.

My Kooks fits like a freakin' glove. Install was not "slide right in", but nothing too hard. Steering knuckle or undo motor mount. But the clearance and Y-pipe fit is absolutely awesome. No banging Y-pipe whatsoever. I did a LOT of research before finally buying my Kooks, and I know George out at Kooks will no doubt take care of ANY ISSUE that you have with any Kooks products.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

Banging on the passenger side? I have so much clearance on the passenger side, you could drive a bus through it.....then again, I don't have Kooks, I have Stainless Works headers with 2.5" Y. I am just surprised why there would be any clearance issues on that side.

Manny

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

My Kook's 1 7/8 fit fine with no clearance issues with my aftermarket K-Member but I did have to trim the Y-pipe 2 inches where it meets the Catback,,also had to clearance the tunnel a bit so it didn't hit on the passenger floor board.

HeapaShifter

iTrader: (2)

I love Kooks and would never consider another brand. I'm that impressed with them.

I have Kooks LT's and ORY the fit is great. When I first installed the y-pipe, it hit in the same two spots as yours. It is infact not adjusted right. Loosen all the clamps on the y-pipe and back off the passenger side off the collector some and it will straighten out and not hit the driveshaft tunnel or trans crossmember.

The passenger side header hitting the k-member is something I've never heard of. All cars have different tolerences and another pair might not fit right either. Maybe try loosening the k member bolts and moving the k member some. It might work.

FRDnemesis

iTrader: (19)

I'm glad I found this post. I almost dropped $1,300. on a set today.

Guess I'll start doing searches for issues with QTP's now.

beaSSt

I had the same banging problem but with a different header vendor. My problem was that the y-pipe was hitting on my adjustable torque arm as well as the floor.

I got under the car and use a pry bar on the y-pipe to gain about an inch of clearance. I slid in a rexhaust hanger rubber between the y-pipe and the floor board to maintain the clearance.

Then with the rubber exhaust hanger still in-place I installed one of the Mufflex LS1 Y-Pipe "Bump Stop" Hangers that I bought from Thunder Racing. When I had it tight I slide the exhaust rubber out from between the y-pipe and the floor.

Problem fixed and now I'm a happy camper.