blackbird00

iTrader: (11)

Correct me if im wrong but would this consist of full bolt ons :
Lid/filter
Smooth bellows
MAF
Intake
Throttle body
Underdrive pully
Headers
Exhaust

And on a 98-02 LS1 trans am what should a car like this run on drag radials and a decent driver??

LC

TC/Clutch ?
Suspension ?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

6-speed or manual?

Powered By V8

iTrader: (2)

I think I read it on this board, if the part does not touch oil then it's a bolt on

lot's of stuff in that category

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

i consider a Torque Converter a Bolton

i think others do too

300bhp/ton

Is this for a particular racing glass? As they will dictate what mods can be performed, or you are meaning just in general? In which case you've probably missed 80-90% of them. You could easily run over $10,000 in bolt on's if you want, however not all of them are worth it.

For example from your list:

-Filter - a stock OEM filter can flow sufficent air for 500bhp n/a so it's pretty pointless to change it before then.

-Smooth bellows - this has to be one of the all time biggest rip offs out there. It's a totally pointless mod and yeilds nothing, certainly not worth $5.00 let alone the $50.00 that some places charge.

-MAF - again the stocker is fine for well over 500bhp, so why change it before then. An aftermarket MAF may alter the readings to the PCM and thus cause the engine to run leaner (which may increase bhp), but this is just by using inaccurate data anf fooling the PCM. A tune will perform the same results using the stock MAF with better results and more control. Also adding an aftermarket MAF without tuning may well hamper performance instead of improve it.

-Intake - well 01/2 cars have the LS6 style intake, this is very good and has been used on many high performance applications. But in fairness the LS1 intake (98-00) isn't bad either. Sure a FAST 90mm should make more power but it will cost a lot, so on a bolt on 346ci engine it may not be the most cost effective gain.

-TB - a stock ported TB is fine for big power applications and has been proven time and time again. A 90mm TB combined with the correct intake (FAST or modified LS6) will show improvements, but again this will be at a pretty hefty cost.

-Pulley - I'm not a fan of these, and the more I look into them the less I like them. Sure there may be a gain from them, but they also cause other issues and are not compatiable with some other potential mods.

-Headers - these are a good mod, but it depends which type of header you go for. Shorties are pointless on a n/a motor, as good header design is about scavenging as well as flow, and shorties just don't scavenge. Mid's are slightly better espcially when combined with large high revving cams but they will still loose out across the board to long tube headers.

-Exhuast - a good flowing exhuast will be of benefit, but a poorly designed system will hamper performance.


So it's not just the individual mods but the quality (type/manufacturer) of each mod that is important. Also there's only so much you can do to the intake/exhaust area of an engine before the heads/cam will become the biggest limiting factors.

The you need to be able to use the performance, so chassis and suspension mods will be needed. 1/4 mile racing is largly about the 60' time. A STOCK stalled A4 car on DR's can massivly reduce it's ET's although it's trap speed will remain pretty constant. So the car is no faster, although the simple mods have allowed it to be quicker down the 1/4 mile.

As for actual track performance, well that will depend from car to car and more importantly from DRIVER to DRIVER. Then you have to consider atmospeheric conditions and altitude as this will have a major bearing on potential results.

blackbird00

iTrader: (11)

Thanx for the info and my car personally is a M6.

98TADRIVER

iTrader: (36)

I all those mods that "arent necessary" and i picked up a couple tenths, so its definately worth it. thats the difference between 13.0 and 12.7 !!

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

i think 375/375 hp/tq can be reached threw a m6 with full bolt ons with 4.10's a low 12

Ric

Sorry man, I had to.

98TADRIVER

iTrader: (36)

I think you are right

I dont have a LS6 intake or a tune either

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I am not a full bolt on car, and never will be cause I will do the cam and underdrive pulley at the same time. But currently I am running 12.5s with a sub par 1.9x 60ft and the stock 3.42s. I am gunning for some 12.4s or better next time out. It's all in the driver with a M6!

ls1mojo

So, smooth bellows doesn't fall into the category of a true bolton?

novass72

no they are a bolt on, just a shitty one!

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

and if you are a chick, full bolt ons are Double D's

FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

The numbers in my sig were before I was full-bolt-ons, with the stock 16x8 wheels and street tires.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Should be able to get high 11's.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

.............or is it a stick-shift ???........ .................. .......

mpe488

A lot of suspension mods would be more of weld-ons than bolt-ons in all fairness. And you missed electric waterpump- which can be considered a bolt-on, and ram air (SSRA, FTRA, or home brew.)

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Bellow is more of a gimick than a mod.