So I decided to do this one today. I got a 1" wide strap, 1000lb rating from Sears. It's black and the ratchet is black as well. Like 12$ or something.

You really can't hook onto anything in the area, so I used both hooks into the crossmember, with the strap going through the alternator bracket. I had to loosen the bolts for the alternator to get it the strap to go in easily. The whole setup creates a triangular setup and clears everything nicely:

<img src="http://www.fear.net/~dope/camaro/suspension/torque_strap/torquestrap-full.jpg" alt=" - " />

Rest of the pics are at: http://www.fear.net/~dope/camaro/sus.../torque_strap/
Lots of close-ups and a good view of the alternator bracket and so forth.

I originally set it up like someone else had posted (some REALLY crappy pics, if I remember), but the strap was REALLY close to the crank pully. Maybe not close enough to be a problem, but when the engine tries to crank over it may have hit eventually. Not worth it, in my mind.

I lost about 1" of ground clearance on the passenger side hook, but I'm not really worried, my FLPs are a good amount lower than that, and I've never even scraped them.

Initial impressions, well, the FLP banging is gone completely. Made 15 or so dead-stop/slow roll punches and couldn't hear a thing from the y-pipe. Will drive it around for a week and then maybe ratchet the strap one more notch, but that's it.

It may be my imagination, but the car also doesn't seem to shake as much at idle, and feels stronger on the launch. Hard to explain, I'm sure it's all in my head.

Oh yeah, the fuel/emissions line is 3/8", I put it anywhere where the hooks or the ratchet touched anything. This is my daily driver, no need for rattles. Also, if you notice, I put a bit of heat-reflective tape on the strap, where it comes in contact with the tranny cooler lines and the oil pan. I doubt it'd burn it anyway, but it's cheap insurance.

Dope

 

Dope, I wonder how much if any good a torque strap will do on a street driven car. With the engine torquing back and forth the belt might become cut at the alternator bracket, if the belt or hooks ( what's the rating for the hooks ) break you could be looking at some damage.

Al
P.S. I really don't think in the long run the belt or hooks will be able to take the punishment.
Just my 2 cents worth.

 

I love it personaly, its cheap and it works. <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

 

I don't know about how well it'll last. The whole thing is rated for 1000lbs, which I would think is more than enough. If it ever breaks they make a heavy duty version which was 2500lbs I believe. It's not as effective as a solid one but this doesn't rattle, doesn't rattle the car, doesn't cause false KR, and does what it was supposed to do (stop the FLPs from banging). Works for me, I don't really care if it flexes a bit or stretches or whatever.

Dope

 

Quote: (It may be my imagination, but the car also doesn't seem to shake as much at idle, and feels stronger on the launch. Hard to explain, I'm sure it's all in my head.)

It's not all in your head, The torque that was once "wasted" by lifting, and twisting the engine/tranny, is now controlled and used to your advantage. That "wasted" torque goes through your drivetrain and to the ground. <img src="http://forums.off-topic.net/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif" alt=" - " />

 

Hmph, cool!

I was thinking, I wonder if I could use this same setup, but put both hooks in the driverside portion of the crossmember? That would probably be more effective, no? Hmmmm I'd just have to cut the strap down further. Maybe I'll try that some other time if I'm bored, or if this doesn't turn out the way I want it to <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Dope

 

What did you do with the remaining "excess" Strap?

I have that same width (1") straps that I used to have for my ATV, so they are about 15' long. If I could use those, I wouldn't even have to go buy more. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

I cut it off <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> You can actually see the remaining excess, it's on the handle of the rachet, it's glued on so it doesn't flap around.

GHETTO! WOOOOOOOEEEEE

Dope

 

I had the same set up until a dyno operator told me he saw one break the the alternator mount off the engine. Now I have this and it works great.
http://www.thefbodyshop.com/technica...m?pgFix=flpls1

<small>[ September 07, 2002, 07:31 PM: Message edited by: 02SS #0568 ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 02SS #0568:
<strong>http://www.thefbodyshop.com/technica...m?pgFix=flpls1</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's that's a good idea!

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by CMNTMXR57:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 02SS #0568:
<strong>I had the same set up until a dyno operator told me he saw one break the the alternator mount off the engine. Now I have this and it works great.
http://www.thefbodyshop.com/technica...m?pgFix=flpls1</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The difference with the torque strap (any of the methods) is that it kills two birds with one stone. That Header/Y-Pipe fix only solves one.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A little flex was put there for a reason. If the alt. bolt takes a piece of your alluminum block with it, you'll have a few more birds to kill! No flame here, and I have no first hand experience, I'm just sayin..... <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

Has anyone had this, or a similar setup, for any length of time?

I've 'heard' people tell stories of breaking brackets and stuff, but I've never seen any proof, or even any firsthand stories. I've only seen people on here who have the same setup, and appear to be very happy with it. I haven't seen one complaint in fact.

Just the way I see it.

Dope

 

I know a guy that WELDED and peice of chain from one of his head bolts to the frame. now THAT is a ghetto torque strap!! <img src="http://forums.off-topic.net/images/smilies/slap.gif" alt=" - " />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 02SS #0568:
<strong>I had the same set up until a dyno operator told me he saw one break the the alternator mount off the engine. Now I have this and it works great.
http://www.thefbodyshop.com/technica...m?pgFix=flpls1</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The difference with the torque strap (any of the methods) is that it kills two birds with one stone. That Header/Y-Pipe fix only solves one.

 

TTT for anyone that wanted to see some good pics, I know there were some people asking earlier.

Dope

 

Strap has enuff give, you won't break the alternator bracket.

I ran one for a few years I need to make a new one, I took mine off and threw it out by accident.