Sx Super Comp Headers Installed With Pics
Originally Posted by sdbrown84
I guess I can see that. I just want to know why the manufacturer of any header would make one that doesn't install without just "slipping in." It may be a personal belief, but a company should make a product that doesn't require any additional modification to your installation procedure.
I am glad that there is an alternative to stainless quality however.
I am glad that there is an alternative to stainless quality however.
In defense of these I'm guessing if you jacked up the motor you wouldn't need to grind the block.
I hate to break it to you people, but you have to grind that tab with many of the long tube installs. I had to when I installed my QTP's, it's no big deal.
I'll tell you what, invest in a good set of stainless headers, do the work to remove the old factory stuff, get the car in the air high enough, then slip the header up, and guess what?? You'll see that the only way to maneuver the headers is to grind off that little casting tab. I gaurantee you'll do it in a heartbeat and won't think twice after all of the work you go through to get it to that point. It's just one of those things when dealing with a long tube header install.
If you want to disconnect the motor mount and jack up the engine it will slide in, but 45 seconds with a neumatic cutoff wheel is a hell of a lot easier.
I'll tell you what, invest in a good set of stainless headers, do the work to remove the old factory stuff, get the car in the air high enough, then slip the header up, and guess what?? You'll see that the only way to maneuver the headers is to grind off that little casting tab. I gaurantee you'll do it in a heartbeat and won't think twice after all of the work you go through to get it to that point. It's just one of those things when dealing with a long tube header install.
If you want to disconnect the motor mount and jack up the engine it will slide in, but 45 seconds with a neumatic cutoff wheel is a hell of a lot easier.
So how is the quality of these headers compared to the qtp's. I know the qtp's are going to be better I just want to know if it is worth the extra $400.
Also, how big is the merge collector. Is it 3'' or 3.5''.
Also, how big is the merge collector. Is it 3'' or 3.5''.
Just another little tid bit of info I would strongly suggest that a person installing Lt's on their car invest in a new set of Upstream O2 sensors (the ones before the cats) as it is not easy to remove the old ones from the manifolds and it would be a PITA to have to change them a few months fown the road anyways. I would also tell anyone installing any brand of Lt header to get a set of GM MLS stainless steel manifold gaskets for their new headers as they just don't leak. On my last car I used the gaskets provided from Pacesetter and they lasted a few months and ended up leaking huge PIT to change once headers are already installed. I even tryed Felpro header gaskets and a few monthes down the road they began to leak too so I finally went ti GM and bought a set of manifold gaskets and never had another problem with it.
As far as these header are go they do not send you any hardware or gaskets and you must either reuse your manifold bolts (not a big deal) and get new gaskets (whitch is why I would go to GM and get new manifold gaskets anyways).
As far as these header are go they do not send you any hardware or gaskets and you must either reuse your manifold bolts (not a big deal) and get new gaskets (whitch is why I would go to GM and get new manifold gaskets anyways).
I would have ahard time spending much more than $350-400 for any set of header for any vehicle. That is just me but I don't see where the cost can be that much for making a header. I say for the $300-350 you will pay for these headers they are a great buy. The craftsmanship of these is second to none (and I have 2 fabricator friends and they are both impressed with the welds a construction of these).
Ground clearance looks to be atleast as good as the exhaust that was on my car to begin with (mine is a 2000). I am not sure if it was stock or what because it is manifolds then converters and a ball flanged pipe that conected to them and then a Y pipe that merged into one I pipe into the Borla Cat back.
Originally Posted by Michael55123
Very temping, very tempting indeed. Anyone wanna sell there set?
As soon as I mine come in I'll be selling my JetHots...... They'll be listed in the parts for sale forum !!
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Originally Posted by sdbrown84
Sorry wont grind the block. Simple can't bring myself to it. The headers look great and thank you carrsls for posting and keeping everyone informed.
Looks like I will be making an investment with Kooks or QTP for stainless.
Looks like I will be making an investment with Kooks or QTP for stainless.
Its not like your grinding on the block itself. Its a little casting ear that serves ZERO purpose. What yall have to remember is that these arent going to have the time spent that QTP or Kooks has making them. They are $300 STAINLESS headers. If yall want to spend the extra $500 instead of 10 minutes worth of work, go for it. Even then theres no guarentee a better fit either. My Kooks still hit the K member.
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by carrsls1_camaro
You have to grind off the square off of the block for "ALMOST" any header install since they will not go post that point. I know for a fact that Pacesetters you have to do the same thing with. The primary is not rubbing on the block as long as you cut off enough of the square block piece. Ask almost anyone that has done a Lt install and they will tell you it is almost a must.
P.S. I have just gotten done cutting the K member and it is not an issue at all it just needs about 1/4" clearence for the primary tube to fit. I will no be waiting for the motor mounts and new plugs and wires for final install.
P.S. I have just gotten done cutting the K member and it is not an issue at all it just needs about 1/4" clearence for the primary tube to fit. I will no be waiting for the motor mounts and new plugs and wires for final install.
Uh... i disagree. My QTP's fir without issue. No rubbing, at all.
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From those pics, they tuck up nicely! I'll be investing in these once all the have-to's are taken care of.
One small question... instead of trimming the K-member, could you tweak the header to clear it?
One small question... instead of trimming the K-member, could you tweak the header to clear it?
Originally Posted by natronathon
Uh... i disagree. My QTP's fir without issue. No rubbing, at all.
I just purchased these same headers for my 2001 SS. I'm glad to see that they are going to fit. For 300 bucks shipped for stainless, I can make them work. We all have the BFH mod and what's a lil grinding. If you are afraid of doing a lil fabrication when modding an F'body, you should have bought a Ford and watched all us F'bodies through your windshield.
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What a bummer man...Cutting OR grinding anything to make headers fit properly is absolutley CRAZY....they should fit right... 
[just read they were 300$.O -well]
[just read they were 300$.O -well] 
There is no problem modifying your F-Bodies. I have no problem with people that will grind the block if it is neccesary. To each their own.
I just ordered a set of QTP's which should ship tomarrow and I am happy with that.
I just ordered a set of QTP's which should ship tomarrow and I am happy with that.
Haven't you read any other posts about header installs? Its all about the car and possibly the header fabrication. These things are made by hand, meaning no 2 are the same. Sure I bet they are really close, but come-on. Go spend 900 bucks on a set of headers. I'll keep my extra 600 in the bank or better yet, go buy the rest of my exhaust components for the same price someone will spend on a set of kooks and still have to buy the rest. Although I am still curious about an x-pipe or ofy pipe that will fit this application.
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From: Blairsville, GA
Originally Posted by carrsls1_camaro
You could but you had better be able to weld stainless. Otherwise just notch the K member about a 1/4" and run with it.
